Replace firewall?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 74
From: Palatine, Peoples Republic of Illinois
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I think we need a bit more information. How was the repair done? Is it leaking? What are your concerns?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
that looks like it may have been caused by a fire. if the damage is confined to the trans area it can be repaired by removing as much of the damaged glass as you can without perforating through, repairing it, and then doing the same from the bottom side. i had to do this to the area around the heater, and it worked out well. not a difficult job, just a pia.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
St. Jude Donor '14
Racer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 468
Likes: 36
From: OKC OK
firewall
just shot you a PM because I just posted a firewall for a 77 in the C3 parts. I think the 77 would be interchangeable or at least for the splicing on parts. Hopefully someone will be able to tell if there is much difference if you decide to change out completely. If you need to stop by and take a look at feel free, i'm in okc too.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
St. Jude Donor '14
Firewall
John sold me a great firewall! Local and no shipping!!!
I also now have a new friend that will need help and will help in return, this is a wonderful hobby!!
John also sold me two slotted alum wheels...need three more....anyone have extras???
I also now have a new friend that will need help and will help in return, this is a wonderful hobby!!
John also sold me two slotted alum wheels...need three more....anyone have extras???
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
St. Jude Donor '14
Hairline cracks
I have been cleaning up the donor firewall, have discovered some hairline cracks. Not sure how to proceed but am thinking of removing about half of the thickness along the fracture and then fill in with fiber and resin...I'm new to glass and really don't want to mess it up.
Once I do one side, should I do the same on the obverse? Also, I found more WHEELS!
Once I do one side, should I do the same on the obverse? Also, I found more WHEELS!
Racer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 468
Likes: 36
From: OKC OK
Cracks
Hey Jerry!
On the cracks, my approach would be to identify if you can fix the cracks after the firewall is installed.
Reason for that is (in my opinion) to keep from adding additional stress. For example, the firewall has not been attached to a birdcage for awhile and sitting around it just changes form a bit. It's really up to you on that but I would mark then install the firewall, then fix all the hairline cracks and holes. Then you know there is no additional stress. Hope that makes sense.
First clean your repair to get the dirt, old glass and debris. I use a grinding disk with about 36 grit and lightly clean up and DO taper out from the crack so naturally you are adding more material. You want it to span a bit. It would not be necessary to fiberglass both sides, just do the one that is easiest to get to. You can either lay fiberglass over the other side, or use filler to make it smooth.
For fiberglass I like to use the Evercoat brand. You can purchase it up on 39th street at B&H paint supply. However it's expensive and uses a cream harder vs. liquid. I have used it for years and it's a personal preference.
Last but not least follow this link to the economy rollers to help work the resin into the fiberglass.
http://www.tapplastics.com/product/s...my_rollers/184
Oh and use fiberglass Mat not the cloth. you can also get heavier mat at the above link.
Good luck!
On the cracks, my approach would be to identify if you can fix the cracks after the firewall is installed.
Reason for that is (in my opinion) to keep from adding additional stress. For example, the firewall has not been attached to a birdcage for awhile and sitting around it just changes form a bit. It's really up to you on that but I would mark then install the firewall, then fix all the hairline cracks and holes. Then you know there is no additional stress. Hope that makes sense.
First clean your repair to get the dirt, old glass and debris. I use a grinding disk with about 36 grit and lightly clean up and DO taper out from the crack so naturally you are adding more material. You want it to span a bit. It would not be necessary to fiberglass both sides, just do the one that is easiest to get to. You can either lay fiberglass over the other side, or use filler to make it smooth.
For fiberglass I like to use the Evercoat brand. You can purchase it up on 39th street at B&H paint supply. However it's expensive and uses a cream harder vs. liquid. I have used it for years and it's a personal preference.
Last but not least follow this link to the economy rollers to help work the resin into the fiberglass.
http://www.tapplastics.com/product/s...my_rollers/184
Oh and use fiberglass Mat not the cloth. you can also get heavier mat at the above link.
Good luck!
I have been cleaning up the donor firewall, have discovered some hairline cracks. Not sure how to proceed but am thinking of removing about half of the thickness along the fracture and then fill in with fiber and resin...I'm new to glass and really don't want to mess it up.
Once I do one side, should I do the same on the obverse? Also, I found more WHEELS!
Once I do one side, should I do the same on the obverse? Also, I found more WHEELS!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
St. Jude Donor '14
Hey Jerry!
On the cracks, my approach would be to identify if you can fix the cracks after the firewall is installed.
Reason for that is (in my opinion) to keep from adding additional stress. For example, the firewall has not been attached to a birdcage for awhile and sitting around it just changes form a bit. It's really up to you on that but I would mark then install the firewall, then fix all the hairline cracks and holes. Then you know there is no additional stress. Hope that makes sense.
First clean your repair to get the dirt, old glass and debris. I use a grinding disk with about 36 grit and lightly clean up and DO taper out from the crack so naturally you are adding more material. You want it to span a bit. It would not be necessary to fiberglass both sides, just do the one that is easiest to get to. You can either lay fiberglass over the other side, or use filler to make it smooth.
For fiberglass I like to use the Evercoat brand. You can purchase it up on 39th street at B&H paint supply. However it's expensive and uses a cream harder vs. liquid. I have used it for years and it's a personal preference.
Last but not least follow this link to the economy rollers to help work the resin into the fiberglass.
http://www.tapplastics.com/product/s...my_rollers/184
Oh and use fiberglass Mat not the cloth. you can also get heavier mat at the above link.
Good luck!
On the cracks, my approach would be to identify if you can fix the cracks after the firewall is installed.
Reason for that is (in my opinion) to keep from adding additional stress. For example, the firewall has not been attached to a birdcage for awhile and sitting around it just changes form a bit. It's really up to you on that but I would mark then install the firewall, then fix all the hairline cracks and holes. Then you know there is no additional stress. Hope that makes sense.
First clean your repair to get the dirt, old glass and debris. I use a grinding disk with about 36 grit and lightly clean up and DO taper out from the crack so naturally you are adding more material. You want it to span a bit. It would not be necessary to fiberglass both sides, just do the one that is easiest to get to. You can either lay fiberglass over the other side, or use filler to make it smooth.
For fiberglass I like to use the Evercoat brand. You can purchase it up on 39th street at B&H paint supply. However it's expensive and uses a cream harder vs. liquid. I have used it for years and it's a personal preference.
Last but not least follow this link to the economy rollers to help work the resin into the fiberglass.
http://www.tapplastics.com/product/s...my_rollers/184
Oh and use fiberglass Mat not the cloth. you can also get heavier mat at the above link.
Good luck!