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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 08:50 PM
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Default Carpet install question

About ready to start installing my carpet in my car, and had a question on the installation. Currently my old carpet is basically just laying in the car, no adhesive at all. Only thing holding it in place are pieces of trim and some screws, etc. When people install new carpet, do they just install loosely like this or do they use spray on adhesive as well? Trying to determine whether my current carpet is installed normal or abnormal. Thanks
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 09:05 PM
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when I did mine, I used spray adhesive on the surface and the back of the carpet. Sprayed, then waited until it was tacky, then installed it with some pressure to make it stick together.
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboStitchCW
when I did mine, I used spray adhesive on the surface and the back of the carpet. Sprayed, then waited until it was tacky, then installed it with some pressure to make it stick together.

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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 08:41 AM
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Rear area carpet pieces are usually glued in place. Fronts are often not glued.
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 09:35 AM
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I did my 73 first. All of the carpet was glued front and back. When I put in the new stuff I glued it all down. On my 70 only the back was glued in, but again I glued the front and back.

I don't see a lot of downside to gluing it all in place.
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Rear area carpet pieces are usually glued in place. Fronts are often not glued.
make sure you have a good fit before gluing

the old measure twice cut/glue once thing
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 10:59 AM
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Didn't glue mine, no issues...
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 01:13 PM
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Double sided Velcro neatly laid out in key places can work well, thus allowing easy removal if needed, also could use double sided tape perhaps. I wondered if I would take mine out, so in a few key spots I used black duct tape hooked into a circle with the sticky side out, it lays flat, holds great, especially with a little heat from the hair dryer...I also used the hair dryer to get it to lay down nice...picks on my install in my build thread, came out not, not NCRS level but nice driver quality
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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I did not need adhesive on the front.

To get it to stay over the waterfall at the top I used double sided velcro on top and bottom and big binder clips to hold it in place. I left it like that for a day and it has stayed since.

If I need to pull it back off I can and the velcro stays on the carpet.

Also, use a soldering iron to make the holes for the seats. It melts the carpet and that is the best solution.
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 03:45 PM
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FWIW, my recommendation through experience offers that you should consider applying glue with a brush or a roller vs spray. This would prevent errant application of glue to areas you dont want/need via overspray.

Beyond that, I found success in applying the glue to both the floor and the carpet backing, allowing it to get tacky, then set. I glued only the vertical surfaces and I started with the wheel wells, then the rear floor, then the fronts and finally the vertical rear panel that's behind the seats. This last panel is a bit tricky. I taped the back end to the storage bin well's edge, so that when I installed the bin frame, it secured the carpet. (I hope this wording makes sense). The wheel wells were the most difficult for me when fitting.

BEFORE YOU GLUE, however, fit, fit fit. Make sure you trim the carpet to the correct size/shape by TRIMMING ONLY A LITTLE AT A TIME. It'll keep you from crying if you "over" trim and end up with a piece that's too small.

Last edited by redrdstr72; Jan 25, 2014 at 08:01 AM.
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by redrdstr72
BEFORE YOU GLUE, however, fit, fit fit. Make sure you trim the carpet to the correct size/shape by TRIMMING ONLY A LITTLE AT A TIME. It'll keep you from crying if you "over" trim and end up with a pice that's too small.


Fit fit fit and cut small pieces at a time. Could be a costly mistake if you take too much at once.

Very important!!
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 11:10 AM
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I tore all my carpet out this winter and had it cleaned, it looks brand new. Now I'm waiting to get my sound deadener/heat shield put in so I can get my carpet back in.
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 07:13 AM
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Does anyone here first apply that black rubber sound deadener (several different brands) as I've seen on a couple of other strings posted here, before laying down the aluminum heat shielding? Seems a worthy effort as I've seen endorsed by a few, but sort of wonder about the smell on hot days and such.
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 02:59 PM
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Mine was sound deadener with the alum foil attached to it, just sticks to a clean floor pan. It is the stuff they use on " overhaulin'".
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by lvmyvt76
Mine was sound deadener with the alum foil attached to it, just sticks to a clean floor pan. It is the stuff they use on " overhaulin'".
'Dynamat'. That's what I used too.
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Lakeside49
Does anyone here first apply that black rubber sound deadener (several different brands) as I've seen on a couple of other strings posted here, before laying down the aluminum heat shielding? Seems a worthy effort as I've seen endorsed by a few, but sort of wonder about the smell on hot days and such.
There are a lot of different theories to go with for 'stuff under the carpet'. There is sound deadener, thermal (heat) insulation, carpet underlayment, jute, and every one of these has different options.

I just went through this (I have another thread somewhere on my progress). I first bought carpet, then I had to figure out what to put underneath it. It depends first on what all you take out, if you rip it all out down to the floorboard (including jute padding) then you will need something under the carpet. And the carpet does come with places where it does have a backing (underlayment) attached to it in the high wear areas (in the footwells). At least mine did. I got mine from Willcox.

There are different options as far as sound deadening as well. Most are similar to Dynamat, which is a thin (1/16") self stick sheets of heavy foil backed with what looks like TAR! There are several brands (Dynamat being the most common, B-Quiet, FatMat, HushMat, etc.....)

You also have to decide how much of the floor you want to cover (i.e. how much you want to spend). I only did the middles of the large areas. Some guys do the whole car interior. The stuff isn't heavy, but it could add up too.

They you may want some padding over that. Again, what I did and what Dynamat suggests is put DynaLiner over top of the Dynamat. Dynaliner is like 1/4" foam with adhesive back. This is more for HEAT insulation. I'm just doing this part of mine now.

Jim
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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Did you anyone glue the carpet to the dynomat? Is that even recommended? Just curious.
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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I used no glue on mine, it has worked fine for many years now.
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 11:55 PM
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Thanks for the info guys, helps a lot.
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 12:28 AM
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Check this video out.
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