When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
140 is nice to have but if you dont run electric fans, big stereos, disco lights then you dont really need it....I run like 100amp firebird alt on my 69 with electric fans etc and it was fine....but if you need to replace get the 140 and have more on tap.....
The output of the factory alternator for a 1972 was very low, compared to what we see today in new cars. Something like 37 amps without AC, and 61 amps with AC.
If you install a much more powerful alternator, you may need to do a bit of rewiring.
The output of the factory alternator for a 1972 was very low, compared to what we see today in new cars. Something like 37 amps without AC, and 61 amps with AC.
If you install a much more powerful alternator, you may need to do a bit of rewiring.
Yike!!!! I forget the guys who do not mod are stuck with a rather dinky charging wire.....
Neither, stock alternator is 42 amp. Unless you've added more electrical stuff putting more load, a larger one accomplishes nothing.
I dont know your situation, but I put a 160 amp alt in mine all I run is a 18 amp fan ect and my 60 amp would start to fall off in charging capacity as the engine got hot. 160 amp changed that completely and would not run another stock on my c-3. Voltage stays more constant, for a stock set up the original may be fine.
I have a rebuilt 60 amp with about 200 miles on it free for shipping charge.
74.
The output of the alternator MUST not exceed the amperage capacity of the wiring in the car. Otherwise, an inadvertently drained battery will call on the alternator to send max power to recharge it...and the fusible links will become toasty...
The output of the alternator MUST not exceed the amperage capacity of the wiring in the car. Otherwise, an inadvertently drained battery will call on the alternator to send max power to recharge it...and the fusible links will become toasty...
My every first oops. The fusiable did not just blow apart it when thermal melt down. It was at nite and there was a red glow under thr car. Boy im not making that mistake again.
I dont know your situation, but I put a 160 amp alt in mine all I run is a 18 amp fan ect and my 60 amp would start to fall off in charging capacity as the engine got hot. 160 amp changed that completely and would not run another stock on my c-3. Voltage stays more constant, for a stock set up the original may be fine.
I have a rebuilt 60 amp with about 200 miles on it free for shipping charge.
74.
The biggest reason the large alternators are advantageous is because they are capable of much, much greater charging amps at idle. That is usually when the added cooling fans, a/c plus all other accessories are on.
I have found that the wires stay cool, the voltage stays up, and I am a happy camper. Do whatever you want is up to you.
As the alternator heats up volts go down, no way around it.
The 160 has beefed up internals the voltage dose not drop.
I didnt get it because im running 2 fans A boom boom in the trunk headlights wipers tv screen, stimulation device
I dont have wipers, headlights, interior lights, heated seats, blower motors ect. and the stock alt still dropped in voltage.
The 160 alternator was a great investment. You should upgrade the charging wire to the battery.
I have found that the wires stay cool, the voltage stays up, and I am a happy camper. Do whatever you want is up to you.
As the alternator heats up volts go down, no way around it.
The 160 has beefed up internals the voltage dose not drop.
I didnt get it because im running 2 fans A boom boom in the trunk headlights wipers tv screen, stimulation device
I dont have wipers, headlights, interior lights, heated seats, blower motors ect. and the stock alt still dropped in voltage.
The 160 alternator was a great investment. You should upgrade the charging wire to the battery.
I upgraded my alt wire to battery with electrical awg 8 copper wire. It can handle anything I throw at it even a by mistake grounding lol. Yes that how my old one fused to the frame.
I have found that the wires stay cool, the voltage stays up, and I am a happy camper. Do whatever you want is up to you.
As the alternator heats up volts go down, no way around it.
The 160 has beefed up internals the voltage dose not drop.
I didnt get it because im running 2 fans A boom boom in the trunk headlights wipers tv screen, stimulation device
I dont have wipers, headlights, interior lights, heated seats, blower motors ect. and the stock alt still dropped in voltage.
The 160 alternator was a great investment. You should upgrade the charging wire to the battery.
In wiring, additional heat means additional resistance. Poor connections, such as frayed wiring, or loose connections will lead to increased resistance. If your stock alternator output went down, there was something wrong, either with the alternator or somewhere in the wiring. Putting in a larger alternator that covers up whatever problem you are having, could simply mask mask your problem until it gets worse.
I would only use an alternator that matches the requirements of the electronics in the car. If there is a problem with the battery charging after that, then there is something that needs to be found.
Charging system was designed with minimal electronics, adding large electric fans was not in the designs, Im convinced on that after seeing what a difference in charging ability that high output alternator made.
So just giving you some other insights of good information for your notebook.
Although you may have a point on the resistance change in the circuits. Thats some good information.
Its pretty universally known of voltage drop vs heat in alternators. I threw the rebuilt out.
Last edited by illenema; Jan 27, 2014 at 09:44 PM.