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I have a GM Mr. Goodwrench crate motor. It was in the car when I bought it. I put new plugs, wires, dis. cap and rotor…but it still seems to run rough at idle. I turned the distributer and seemed to make it a little better (I can't afford a timing gun right now)
So I filmed it, maybe you guys can hear something? Or is it just my imagination?
I hear you on budget but borrow or some way get a vacuum gauge and a timing light, running to too far advanced might help the rough but you could get the engine running hotter and pinging, timed right it will run better,
Does that engine have a mild cam?
Put a vacuum gauge on it to be sure it has no leaks, vettes love to have vacuum leaks,
Also could be a little trash in the idle jet.
Re-Check your plug wires making sure you got the correct firing order, The PO may have had a wrong plug wire on the wrong plug or cap, Pull all of plug wires off, and do one wire at a time. You can use a sharpie to lable the wires.
Do you have a CF member that lives near you, maybe you could stop over after work and they could set the timing for you. Hope this helps.
Re-Check your plug wires making sure you got the correct firing order, The PO may have had a wrong plug wire on the wrong plug or cap, Pull all of plug wires off, and do one wire at a time. You can use a sharpie to lable the wires.
Do you have a CF member that lives near you, maybe you could stop over after work and they could set the timing for you. Hope this helps.
Thanks. I am going to have learn more about this, educate myself. I'm guessing the vacuum system is all connected to the headlight vacuum system? Because they don't work either
I replace my intake, and carb at the cost of $435 to fix my rough idle. But my problem was a leak in my carb. Yours maybe a vacuum leak. And with all those so wonderful vac lines it will be fun.
First thing first, get a timing light, and vac guage.
Get the timing right and block off all vac lines. If your idle improves it one of the lines. Just find which and replace. If it stay the same the look on youtube with this search "how to find a vac leak" theres hundreds of these videos. Pick the one you feel safe with.
I hear you on budget but borrow or some way get a vacuum gauge and a timing light, running to too far advanced might help the rough but you could get the engine running hotter and pinging, timed right it will run better,
Does that engine have a mild cam?
Put a vacuum gauge on it to be sure it has no leaks, vettes love to have vacuum leaks,
Also could be a little trash in the idle jet.
I think it's mild. The PO told me it was a stock mr. good wrench 350 for about $1,500 bucks.
I replace my intake, and carb at the cost of $435 to fix my rough idle. But my problem was a leak in my carb. Yours maybe a vacuum leak. And with all those so wonderful vac lines it will be fun.
First thing first, get a timing light, and vac guage.
Get the timing right and block off all vac lines. If your idle improves it one of the lines. Just find which and replace. If it stay the same the look on youtube with this search "how to find a vac leak" theres hundreds of these videos. Pick the one you feel safe with.
Thanks! The carb looks pretty old. I think it's the original, at least that's what the PO said.
I found these videos, then I realized I had no clue what I was doing. LOL!
Sgt. Lets work on one problem at a time. Has the engine always ran rough? You can always block off the headlights and get the engine stright first.
Was the crate engine a long block (complete carb, dizzy and oil pan) or short block (no heads, intake and oil pan) used all parts from the engine being removed. How many miles on the engine, was it raced or abused before you got it?
OK, back to the engine, here is the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Here is how the cyl are numbered
Try this first, if this doesn't work you can check to see if the Dizzy is timed correctly. You can do this by removing the cap off of the Dizzy and bump th engine over untill the rotor is at the #1 firing position on the cap and rotor, if so check and see if it lines up on your timing tab "0" or very close. This is just a rough way. If all of above is correct, you may have a vacuum leak. With engine running you can spray carb cleaner at the base of the carb and if it smooths out, you may have a bad base gasket on the carb, you can also do the intake as well. Or you could put a vacuum gage on the port and see what you have. But I'm guessing you don't have a vacuum gage, I don't have one either. I hope this helps.
The position of the vac advance can looks ok for the time being. You could fine tune it later with a timing light.
I agree with those above. Check the plug wires. Another trick I have seen is to run the car at night with no lights. If you have a bad plug wire or boot you will see it arcing.
On my 69 the headlights still are hooked to the mess of vaccum lines, I have a pinch to close off the line so I can do the headlights and not worry about leaks, as much, I will open my lights with electric poppers when I swap the front clip,
I got too attached to correct timing, a acVW engine for example will "sound" okay and be so off it will burn up.
A mismatched plug wire in many cases would pop and act ugly getting on it, but we never know, when I got my trike the dolt had the coil volts coming from a tail light hot lead.....