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For some strange reason, I went to start my 74 L48 auto last month, and nothing. Popped the hood, looked at the starter to see the solenoid plastic cap had cracked in half. So I went to my local Chevy parts place and got a replacement solenoid. Went to drop the starter, and the nose had snapped off as well! Got me buggered as to how it happened, as the car was going great. I had the starter rebuilt by my auto-electrician a few months earlier.
So, I gave up, and went on vacation!
But then other issues forced me to shoot back to town, buy a reman starter, bolt her up, and go back on vacation. Along the way I've learned a heap about starters, shims, etc, so it's been a voyage of discovery, but has anyone else had to file down the starter where it mounts against the block to get the clearance right?
Uhhh.....no. Does your starter have a front support bracket on it? If not, it will be difficult maintaining the right gear mesh; and other 'things' might happen, if the front of the starter is not mounted properly.
That's true, But it's never had a front bracket. The bolts are correct (knurled) and clean as a whistle. Plus torqued to 35-40lb. When researching, I've found that it's not uncommon to have to file the odd one down. Just beware that you may have to to get your clearance right.
BTW, I will add a front bracket, but that alone wouldn't get the bendix closer to the flex plate!
That front bracket is what positions the starter 'axially' (horizontal position relative to the engine). Without it, the starter will take whatever position it will, depending on how flat the engine/starter mating surfaces are (or whatever junk is between them). It also prevents the weight of the starter from rebound forces when you drive over/hit a big bump AND is intended to be the source for electrical ground for the starter (the large grounding cable is to be attached to the engine mounting bolt for that bracket).
That may fix whatever alignment issues you think you have with your starter. Or, you may have some other issue with that starter or its assembly.
I didn't have any issues installing mine (re. clearance) but the old one looked very different from the one I was installing. Took the old one to the store and they were confused too. A little research later and we discovered it was off of an old boat. Thanks Bubba!
That front bracket is what positions the starter 'axially' (horizontal position relative to the engine). Without it, the starter will take whatever position it will, depending on how flat the engine/starter mating surfaces are (or whatever junk is between them). It also prevents the weight of the starter from rebound forces when you drive over/hit a big bump AND is intended to be the source for electrical ground for the starter (the large grounding cable is to be attached to the engine mounting bolt for that bracket).
That may fix whatever alignment issues you think you have with your starter. Or, you may have some other issue with that starter or its assembly.
Cheers 7T1. But no amount of front bracketry trickery would have pulled the bendix closer to the flex plate. The pinion was either not making contact at all, or sounding like an old school siren. No "thinking" necessary! Just filing! Pretty much got it sorted now. Maybe I've got a boat starter as well!!
NEVER heard of having to file the starter down to fit, something else going on here to need this filing. Are you running the original motor & flywheel??? Any changes done since the car left the factory??
Matching numbers. Nothing different there. The old starter was fine. The replacement was a silver color. Googled the initial problem, and found that some guys have had to file. And now I'm one as well.
Difference might be the Northern Hemisphere has to use the bracket and the Southern Hemisphere has to use the filing method. Kinda like when you flush the toilet!
Duane
I would bet that your answer is in the ring gear..the teeth are probably worn and that can also break the nose off the starter...any one grinding the nose to get the drive closer to the ring gear is a BIG mistake...This condition will only get worse and happen again.......change the flywheel ring gear and solve your issue .....:
I would bet that your answer is in the ring gear..the teeth are probably worn and that can also break the nose off the starter...any one grinding the nose to get the drive closer to the ring gear is a BIG mistake...This condition will only get worse and happen again.......change the flywheel ring gear and solve your issue .....:
I hear you Ironcross. I'm not filing the nose though. I've filed the flat parts where the bolt holes are that mount against the block.
should of kept the original starter and rebuilt it, if the armature and field are good, then the rest of the parts are real cheap. It takes about 30-45 minutes to rebuild, alittle more if you want it painted.
should of kept the original starter and rebuilt it, if the armature and field are good, then the rest of the parts are real cheap. It takes about 30-45 minutes to rebuild, alittle more if you want it painted.
I did, and I intend to! I had not long had it rebuilt.