First-timer needing help with running 78
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Olathe Kansas
First-timer needing help with running 78
I bought my '78 a few months ago and now that it's winter I would like to get it in better shape. Runs nicely, but needs some fixing. It is 99% original. I'll have lots of questions as I go along but I'll start with this one.
Attached is a pic of where one of the exhaust pipes comes down from the headers. 2/3 nuts are missing. Can someone give me suggestions on finding the best nut and correct size? Any ideas on why they are missing, or how to make sure they don't come off again?
Forgive my ignorance and incorrect terms, I'll just admit to it now, I do not know very much at all about cars, but am willing and able to learn.
My next steps after this simple fix will be oil leaks, starter, carb and maybe a neutral safety switch.
I purchased my 1978 in September of 2013 near St Louis Mo. Looks to be a 2-3 owner car, all stock all original minus general maintenance. Runs rich, pings a little, idles high in park and drops a "bit" of oil. Damage behind front driver side wheel about the size of two decks of cards. White with Red interior, Auto L48 with 115000 miles. Paid $6000
Attached is a pic of where one of the exhaust pipes comes down from the headers. 2/3 nuts are missing. Can someone give me suggestions on finding the best nut and correct size? Any ideas on why they are missing, or how to make sure they don't come off again?
Forgive my ignorance and incorrect terms, I'll just admit to it now, I do not know very much at all about cars, but am willing and able to learn.
My next steps after this simple fix will be oil leaks, starter, carb and maybe a neutral safety switch.
I purchased my 1978 in September of 2013 near St Louis Mo. Looks to be a 2-3 owner car, all stock all original minus general maintenance. Runs rich, pings a little, idles high in park and drops a "bit" of oil. Damage behind front driver side wheel about the size of two decks of cards. White with Red interior, Auto L48 with 115000 miles. Paid $6000
Last edited by Jbilroy; Feb 23, 2014 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Editted to add engine/car details for record keeping.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,628
Likes: 7,081
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Someone probably forgot to tighten/torque them....or re-tighten them after a few hundred miles of driving.
I don't know if an exhaust gasket is needed there/spray penetrating oil all over the studs and remaining nut--let it soak in for a day before installing new (gasket?) nuts ( I add a flat washer and lock washer to each stud)
Problems like missing bolts can be eliminated by looking around while you are under the car doing oil changes/etc.
(That's why it's a good idea to do your own simple maintenance...you can catch things before they become problems)
Keep all your questions and improvements in this same thread.....then you'll have an on-line documentary of the progress...(some members have years of documentation in their thread)
I don't know if an exhaust gasket is needed there/spray penetrating oil all over the studs and remaining nut--let it soak in for a day before installing new (gasket?) nuts ( I add a flat washer and lock washer to each stud)
Problems like missing bolts can be eliminated by looking around while you are under the car doing oil changes/etc.
(That's why it's a good idea to do your own simple maintenance...you can catch things before they become problems)
Keep all your questions and improvements in this same thread.....then you'll have an on-line documentary of the progress...(some members have years of documentation in their thread)
Last edited by doorgunner; Feb 8, 2014 at 10:52 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 119
From: Springfield Missouri
don't over tighten the nuts, the exhaust stud is old like me, rusted(kind of like me) and may break, lube it up a for a few days to help with the threads or run a thread chaser up the threads to clean them up. after a few running hours, check the again for tightness.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 119
From: Springfield Missouri
don't over tighten the nuts, the exhaust stud is old like me, rusted(kind of like me) and may break, lube it up a for a few days to help with the threads or run a thread chaser up the threads to clean them up. after a few running hours, check the again for tightness. if you brake the stud, then the fun begins!
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 56
From: Shawano WI
Attached is a pic of where one of the exhaust pipes comes down from the headers. 2/3 nuts are missing. Can someone give me suggestions on finding the best nut and correct size? Any ideas on why they are missing, or how to make sure they don't come off again?
Forgive my ignorance and incorrect terms, I'll just admit to it now, I do not know very much at all about cars, but am willing and able to learn.
Forgive my ignorance and incorrect terms, I'll just admit to it now, I do not know very much at all about cars, but am willing and able to learn.
the correct nuts for them are tall brass 3/8-16 and a lock washer. Most parts stores will have them in a kit with new studs for around $4-$5.00 per side. Dorman 3112 is one number but there are many manufactures of them.
There is a doughnut gasket that is used between the pipe and manifold.
I have had the best luck with the sintered metal one, like a felpro 60985. They seem to last a lot longer than the fiber ones.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Olathe Kansas
First-timer needing help with '78
Got those nuts changed pretty easily.
I'm going to move onto what I believe is a Neutral Switch issue. Just about every time I go to start my car I can't get the engine to turn when I turn the ignition key. I get no noise, no crank, just the electronics fire up (beep and radio). I thought it might be Starter related because the starter looks original, but so far I don't think I am getting that "clicking" you hear on a bad starter. It isn't heat soak I don't think because it happens cold or hot.
So here is where my "research" has led me. Most of the time if I move the shifter down into gear and then back into park and then turn the key, it will start. Sometimes it is random and doesn't work right away but it hasn't left me stranded yet, I've always eventually got it to start within just a minute or so.
Has anyone had success problem solving a starting issue like this? Are there detailed instructions on removing the center console around the shifter to access the neutral switch?
Thanks
I'm going to move onto what I believe is a Neutral Switch issue. Just about every time I go to start my car I can't get the engine to turn when I turn the ignition key. I get no noise, no crank, just the electronics fire up (beep and radio). I thought it might be Starter related because the starter looks original, but so far I don't think I am getting that "clicking" you hear on a bad starter. It isn't heat soak I don't think because it happens cold or hot.
So here is where my "research" has led me. Most of the time if I move the shifter down into gear and then back into park and then turn the key, it will start. Sometimes it is random and doesn't work right away but it hasn't left me stranded yet, I've always eventually got it to start within just a minute or so.
Has anyone had success problem solving a starting issue like this? Are there detailed instructions on removing the center console around the shifter to access the neutral switch?
Thanks
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 56
From: Shawano WI
Got those nuts changed pretty easily.
I'm going to move onto what I believe is a Neutral Switch issue. Just about every time I go to start my car I can't get the engine to turn when I turn the ignition key. I get no noise, no crank, just the electronics fire up (beep and radio). I thought it might be Starter related because the starter looks original, but so far I don't think I am getting that "clicking" you hear on a bad starter. It isn't heat soak I don't think because it happens cold or hot.
So here is where my "research" has led me. Most of the time if I move the shifter down into gear and then back into park and then turn the key, it will start. Sometimes it is random and doesn't work right away but it hasn't left me stranded yet, I've always eventually got it to start within just a minute or so.
Has anyone had success problem solving a starting issue like this? Are there detailed instructions on removing the center console around the shifter to access the neutral switch?
Thanks
I'm going to move onto what I believe is a Neutral Switch issue. Just about every time I go to start my car I can't get the engine to turn when I turn the ignition key. I get no noise, no crank, just the electronics fire up (beep and radio). I thought it might be Starter related because the starter looks original, but so far I don't think I am getting that "clicking" you hear on a bad starter. It isn't heat soak I don't think because it happens cold or hot.
So here is where my "research" has led me. Most of the time if I move the shifter down into gear and then back into park and then turn the key, it will start. Sometimes it is random and doesn't work right away but it hasn't left me stranded yet, I've always eventually got it to start within just a minute or so.
Has anyone had success problem solving a starting issue like this? Are there detailed instructions on removing the center console around the shifter to access the neutral switch?
Thanks
Number 15 is the switch
The 3 lower red circles are where the screws are located
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 61
From: Southern NH
before you go throwing parts at it, have a helper attempt to crank the engine while you are under the car with a test light on the small purple wire going to the starter solenoid and the other end to ground. if it lights up and the car doesn't start, the starter is bad. if it dosen't light up then you can pursue looking into the safety switch and other things.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Olathe Kansas
Any suggestions on brand and where to buy a new fuel pump? I was told it is leaking oil, and then while under it I wiped it down a little. Next time I started it, fuel came spitting out.
I'm going to attempt to replace it myself, which may be a mistake, but I won't know if I don't try.
I'm going to attempt to replace it myself, which may be a mistake, but I won't know if I don't try.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Olathe Kansas
Fuel Pump Issues
I bought a fuel pump that doesn't quite fit. I hooked it all up and the metal line with a coil around it doesn't quite reach the brass fitting coming of the pump. The "canister" part of the new pump sits maybe an extra 3/4 inch lower than the old one. Everything else fits perfectly.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Does anyone have any ideas?