I'm curious how most are pulling their engines....headers, trans, and distributor on? I plan to pull it to make some changes on my 76 and was just curious. Any help will be much appreciated.
DJ Freddie

 

A lot depends on how much room you are working with. To pull the engine with the trans, you have to remove the hood, the core support and radiator, and have the room to move the car out from under the engine when you get it high enough to clear.

I just pulled my BB- just dropped the headers back and pulled the trans- never touched the hood or core support. I did pull the distributor and carb, but that was as much to just get it out of the way as anything. Getting the distributor out is an easy way to make sure that it won't get broken.

 

Thanks Tim

 

I did the same as Tim. Hood and radiator stayed in place. Long tube headers removed from below and auto trans removed from below. Picked the engine from the side and had plenty of room to clear the fenders with the car on jack stands.

 

 

With a C3, you would be better to remove the distributor, as you have to tilt the engine and there isn't any clearance between the dizzy and the firewall. And, unless you have uniquely designed headers, I'd bet they need to be unbolted from the heads, also. If you are keeping those headers, just leave the exhaust system intact...under the car. Then, bolt them back up once the engine is reinstalled. You might also need to remove the starter to clear the headers.

 

qtlow: Dude, you are too funny and I like the way you think.

Obviously, many options are available, when doing this job. I wouldn't even start until I have ample work space to disassemble, catalog, and organize.

As also mentioned, I remove the hood, distributor, and carb to protect them and gain more work room.

I work indoors unless I have my tracked bucket loader available.

I prefer pulling the engine and trans as a unit. In my experience, it solves a lot of alignment issues on reinstallation but that's just me.

Factory clutch cars have a fixed (welded) trans crossmember; automatic-equipped cars are removable. That'll make a difference, too.

Whatever you do, be safe. That's a lot of weight you're dealing with and accidents happen. I try not to be one, mostly due to working alone. For the less experienced, it never hurts to have good help available.

I drain the coolant at the pain rail plugs. I always install petcocks to all my engines to simplify that process. Then I drain the rad.

A lot of the effort required depends on whether one is working with the stock configuration or a car that has been "modified". My definition of modified: having removed previously installed OEM-type equipment; ex.: if your car has a fan shroud, A.I.R. pump and hoses, lower ignition shields, or any AC equipment.

Because I do not have a lift to access from underneath, I raise the car on jackstands, crawl on my back, and prepare by disconnecting the exhaust, driveshaft, gear shifter, clutch-linkage, cables, hoses, and removing the starter. I like removing the radiator to make sure I don't unintentionally punch a hole in it (been there, done that).

I prefer to remove headers/exhaust manifolds for added room. They're easier to remove/replace at that stage too. I've had the mech fuel pump cause interference so I remove/install while the engine is on its mounts.

I have scratched up painted panels in the past. Now-a-days, I throw blankets or some sort of shields to protect them from accidents. Blankets or fender covers make a convenient place to hold tools.

I employ a leveler on my cherry picker's hook and approach from the side.





Once you remove/replace an engine, you'll figure out what works best for you. I'm lazy so I like to clear as much space as possible to save unintended consequences. Too many Benjamins are spent and I only have so many to enjoy. Besides, I hate rework.

Good luck and let us know how you do.

 

You might want to get a little bigger lifting device, not sure that is going to handle the load!

 

I pull my trans first - but my car's a 4-speed with the welded cross-member.

Also - My headers are welded to my exhaust pipes, which can lead to obvious problems pulling the motor. If this is the case for you, unhooking the exhaust hangers on the mufflers and at the crossmember first will allow you to rotate the headers away from the motor.

Good luck!

 

Thanks so much to everyone for your help.
Cheers...
Freddie

 

Talk about a shotgun being used to kill a fly. haha. I guess if that was your only option and it was free. Good to have friends with large equipment.

 

Sometimes you gotta run what you brung, rite???

I Like to leave the trans behind, so as not to mess with all the spilled oil out the tail shaft, and if the car has a/c the condenser up front is still in the way to not allow the tailshaft clearance off the firewall, meaning it's tail down on the way out/in.....with the typical lift like I have, it's much easier.....