Electrical wizards....Multimeter
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,495
Likes: 134
From: Blanco County, TX
Electrical wizards....Multimeter
Any recommendations for a good multimeter for automotive use? I currently (
) need it to track down a short(s), but will want it to do anything I might need on the corvette. My existing meter is a POS.
Is a Fluke 88V more than I need? The RPM feature is attractive.
Thanks
Kevin
) need it to track down a short(s), but will want it to do anything I might need on the corvette. My existing meter is a POS.Is a Fluke 88V more than I need? The RPM feature is attractive.
Thanks
Kevin
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
For performing DC electrical and continuity checks, about ANY multimeter will work fine. If you start checking into electronic circuit testing, that Fluke meter should be able to handle about anything you throw at it. But, with any 'gauge'/'tester', you have to use it properly.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 44
From: East TN
I have a Fluke 115. Nice having the backlight feature 
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I have I think 5 multi meters. Everything from a Fluke to a free meter from Harbor Freight. Honestly for checking most things on the car the Harbor Freight one does as good as the Fluke. When you get into more circuitry yes the Fluke is the way to go. I have them scattered around the garage and my truck and usually just grab whichever one is closer.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
I have I think 5 multi meters. Everything from a Fluke to a free meter from Harbor Freight. Honestly for checking most things on the car the Harbor Freight one does as good as the Fluke. When you get into more circuitry yes the Fluke is the way to go. I have them scattered around the garage and my truck and usually just grab whichever one is closer.
but I have FI and an extra computer in the car also....just because....
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Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Missouri City Texas
If your chasing shorts in the wiring, use the meter to montior the current drain from the battery. You will need to put the meter in current mode and in series with the battery.
As you pull fuses or check wiring, note the changes in current to see if current reading go down.
As you pull fuses or check wiring, note the changes in current to see if current reading go down.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,495
Likes: 134
From: Blanco County, TX
If your chasing shorts in the wiring, use the meter to montior the current drain from the battery. You will need to put the meter in current mode and in series with the battery.
As you pull fuses or check wiring, note the changes in current to see if current reading go down.
As you pull fuses or check wiring, note the changes in current to see if current reading go down.
With my current cheapie meter, I get a null current draw with the clock disconnected. Since I know I have a draw somewhere I reconnected the clock as a check and it didn't work and had no draw (with the meter in series). I came to the conclusion that the meter is fried. It also shows my alternator is putting out 17.5 volts. When I had it checked, the parts house said it was putting out about 14.5-15 volts. The guy was nice enough to switch the leads on his tester so he could get a "fail" test result on it and give me a new one. I replaced the alt. and regulator and got 17.5v again. Tough to run down these problems without confidence in my meter.
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 61
From: Southern NH
Yes, this is the procedure I have used. With my current cheapie meter, I get a null current draw with the clock disconnected. Since I know I have a draw somewhere I reconnected the clock as a check and it didn't work and had no draw (with the meter in series). I came to the conclusion that the meter is fried.
It also shows my alternator is putting out 17.5 volts. When I had it checked, the parts house said it was putting out about 14.5-15 volts. The guy was nice enough to switch the leads on his tester so he could get a "fail" test result on it and give me a new one. I replaced the alt. and regulator and got 17.5v again. Tough to run down these problems without confidence in my meter.
Thanks
With my current cheapie meter, I get a null current draw with the clock disconnected. Since I know I have a draw somewhere I reconnected the clock as a check and it didn't work and had no draw (with the meter in series). I came to the conclusion that the meter is fried. It also shows my alternator is putting out 17.5 volts. When I had it checked, the parts house said it was putting out about 14.5-15 volts. The guy was nice enough to switch the leads on his tester so he could get a "fail" test result on it and give me a new one. I replaced the alt. and regulator and got 17.5v again. Tough to run down these problems without confidence in my meter.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,495
Likes: 134
From: Blanco County, TX
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Missouri City Texas
Last short I chased was caused by the Alarm wire on the door switch. It had broken off and was intermittent to gorund causing about 100mA draw on the battery. After I fixed it the current draw was 10mA or less. So insure your meter is set to read small current values. I used a cheapy Harbor Freight meter.
