jbrown_47

Hello All,
I've been trying to troubleshoot an inoperable alarm on my 1972 Base Model. (I'm using a factory schematic for this model, cleaned and tested all the components.)
My problem is that I have no voltage at the arming switch (on the rear deck), looking at the schematic it references a orange connection to the "body harness" and a pink wire running to the relay. What it doesn't show is the location where that orange wire receives voltage.
I believe that orange wire could terminate into the fuse box to supply the 12VDC source, but I haven't been able to find any connector, loose orange wire in that area or any orange wire(s) running down the door sills.
Is there anyone who could explain how the arming switch receives its voltage and where that orange wire runs from?
Thanks,
John

7T1vette

I believe that an orange wire is one that is HOT all the time, but also feeds from the fuse block, so it is protected. Yellow is fused but hot only with ignition ON. If you don't have a fused/hot wire going to that location, you can create one by running a wire with an in-line fuse directly to the hot side of the battery.

Flivver61

I believe an orange wire provides the power for the rear cargo area light

Peterbuilt

Looks like the alarm gets 12 volts from the CLK LTR CTSY fuse.

jbrown_47

Thanks everyone, I'll try to trace the orange wire from the arming switch back to the fusebox. Does it run through the access panel in the drivers side rear wheel well?

Cavu2u

Look inside the jack storage area, near the front in it.
On my '73, the power supply wire is orange, like in this schitzo:



Steve

Peterbuilt

This schematic shows an ORANGE wire from the fuse to the on - off switch, then it comes out pink as the power goes to the relay.

Make sure the switch is ON.




Or maybe the colors have faded.

jbrown_47

Thanks, I used this same schematic while troubleshooting. I'm posting that one here with my notes, maybe it can better explain what I did and what information I'm searching for.

Peterbuilt

From the factory the alarm circuit is protected by the CLK LTR CTSY fuse. If the fuse is good (on both sides) then I'll guess there is a break in the wires that run under the sill plate.


You can run a new wire and use the BAT lug to the feed side of your alarm key switch. The BAT lug is protected by the WIPER fuse.

jbrown_47

Thanks, I'll trace that harness this weekend, wish me luck.

John

Crafty12

Here are a few pics and a little conversation about the alarm harness in my 70. Might help.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...questions.html

Cavu2u

Not to hijack this thread, but what good does an alarm switch for the hood do? You've got to get inside to pull the hood release, right?
Engineers.
I'll never be one.

Crafty12

The ease of getting into the car VIA convertible tops and T tops would be my guess. You could walk away with a FI unit without opening the doors if not for the hood switch.

But I agree, doesn't seem to add much more protection.

lvmyvt76

I have found out how to release the hood on my 76 by going thru the small hole on the cowl used in case of cable breakage. It takes about 15 seconds to pop the hood.

Cavu2u

Where's that hole?

tejasak

If I remember right, its in front of the left wiper arm. There is a rubber grommet, remove it and you can stick a rod through the hole and release the hood. I have only had to do it once. I am sure someone will chime in if I am mistaken.

Cavu2u

Yup. I got one too on my '73.

Thanks! Nice to know when that Release Handle Cable breaks.