Question On C3 Fuel Tank
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Catoosa Okla
Question On C3 Fuel Tank
I dropped the fuel tank down after removing the rear end to prep it for an LS1 in-tank fuel pump for the LS/4L60e swap. Even before dropping it, I commented on what great shape it was in for a 74. I was also hopefully optimistic that I'd find the factory build sheet tucked at the top of the tank. The build sheet wasn't there. What was there was a sticker clearly showing the fuel cell was manufactured in Canada? I realize now a lot of stuff like the new Camaro and a lot or parts coming from Canada, but back in 1974? I'm thinking the tank has been changed, but I may be wrong. Any words of wisdom?
The ORIGINAL and bestest
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Toronto Ontario
Toronto Events Coordinator
It is a replacement tank made in Canada by Spectra Premium.
http://www.spectrapremium.com/products/fuel_tank.html
I have a Spectra replacement tank, here is a pic of it during the conversion to an in-tank EFI pump:
http://www.spectrapremium.com/products/fuel_tank.html
I have a Spectra replacement tank, here is a pic of it during the conversion to an in-tank EFI pump:
Last edited by 7t2vette; Feb 26, 2014 at 06:20 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
I've got the very first tank they made for '73s. Their factory is just down the road from where I worked.Lots of C3 Corvette parts are/were made in Canada. The 'made in XXX' laws don't go back far enough to capture every example.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 730
Likes: 37
From: Catoosa Okla
It is a replacement tank made in Canada by Spectra Premium.
http://www.spectrapremium.com/products/fuel_tank.html
I have a Spectra replacement tank, here is a pic of it during the conversion to an in-tank EFI pump:
http://www.spectrapremium.com/products/fuel_tank.html
I have a Spectra replacement tank, here is a pic of it during the conversion to an in-tank EFI pump:
The ORIGINAL and bestest
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 10,009
Likes: 240
From: Toronto Ontario
Toronto Events Coordinator
Nice setup! Two questions. First, what did you do with your two factory side vent tubes on the tank? I figured I could utilize them and delete the vent on the LS1 fuel pump assembly. Second question. Why the serious center cutout on the middle of the tank? Isn't there plenty of room to simply cut a hole on the deep side, weld the tab and just go with it? Sure is a sweet tank man!
1) The vent nipple on the driver's side remains, and is used as intended. The return nipple on the passenger side was removed, and the hole welded shut.
2) The cutout is at the deep side of the tank. It is a stainless steel fuel pump/sump kit from Rock Valley. It cost $375, which included the Walbro 255 LPH pump, and is very well made. It is made to fit right into the stock tank. If my tank wasn't basically brand new, I would have went with the complete Rock Valley SS baffled tank and fuel pump/sump. I had my local race shop weld it in my tank for me, then I custom bent SS hardlines for it. I then painted the tank. Some more pics:
Here is my tank installed in the car:
No problems with this set up after a almost 4yrs of use. The pickup has never gone dry under any situation, and I have ran it almost completely empty a few times; once less than 1 gallon in the tank!
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 547
Likes: 13
From: Carlstadt NJ
Thanks!
1) The vent nipple on the driver's side remains, and is used as intended. The return nipple on the passenger side was removed, and the hole welded shut.
2) The cutout is at the deep side of the tank. It is a stainless steel fuel pump/sump kit from Rock Valley. It cost $375, which included the Walbro 255 LPH pump, and is very well made. It is made to fit right into the stock tank. If my tank wasn't basically brand new, I would have went with the complete Rock Valley SS baffled tank and fuel pump/sump. I had my local race shop weld it in my tank for me, then I custom bent SS hardlines for it. I then painted the tank. Some more pics:
Here is my tank installed in the car:
No problems with this set up after a almost 4yrs of use. The pickup has never gone dry under any situation, and I have ran it almost completely empty a few times; once less than 1 gallon in the tank!
1) The vent nipple on the driver's side remains, and is used as intended. The return nipple on the passenger side was removed, and the hole welded shut.
2) The cutout is at the deep side of the tank. It is a stainless steel fuel pump/sump kit from Rock Valley. It cost $375, which included the Walbro 255 LPH pump, and is very well made. It is made to fit right into the stock tank. If my tank wasn't basically brand new, I would have went with the complete Rock Valley SS baffled tank and fuel pump/sump. I had my local race shop weld it in my tank for me, then I custom bent SS hardlines for it. I then painted the tank. Some more pics:
Here is my tank installed in the car:
No problems with this set up after a almost 4yrs of use. The pickup has never gone dry under any situation, and I have ran it almost completely empty a few times; once less than 1 gallon in the tank!
Thanks,
Danny
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The ORIGINAL and bestest
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Toronto Ontario
Toronto Events Coordinator
Thanks!
First I went over the tank with a red Scotch-brite pad, then I sprayed it with self-etching primer; you need to use the etching primer because the tanks are made with Ni-Terne steel. For the final coats, I used Duplicolor #DE1650 Cast Coat Aluminum. I made the anti-squeak strips out of a self-adhesive waterproofing membrane product called Blueskin.
First I went over the tank with a red Scotch-brite pad, then I sprayed it with self-etching primer; you need to use the etching primer because the tanks are made with Ni-Terne steel. For the final coats, I used Duplicolor #DE1650 Cast Coat Aluminum. I made the anti-squeak strips out of a self-adhesive waterproofing membrane product called Blueskin.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 547
Likes: 13
From: Carlstadt NJ
Thanks!
First I went over the tank with a red Scotch-brite pad, then I sprayed it with self-etching primer; you need to use the etching primer because the tanks are made with Ni-Terne steel. For the final coats, I used Duplicolor #DE1650 Cast Coat Aluminum. I made the anti-squeak strips out of a self-adhesive waterproofing membrane product called Blueskin.
First I went over the tank with a red Scotch-brite pad, then I sprayed it with self-etching primer; you need to use the etching primer because the tanks are made with Ni-Terne steel. For the final coats, I used Duplicolor #DE1650 Cast Coat Aluminum. I made the anti-squeak strips out of a self-adhesive waterproofing membrane product called Blueskin.