Transmission removal?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: winterville NC
Transmission removal?
I have a 79 L82 with a Turbo350 trans that I am going to pull out.... is there any special care or precautions I should be taking with this removal?
I am aware of supporting the motor and such but any thing special other than that?
I am aware of supporting the motor and such but any thing special other than that?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 884
Likes: 84
From: New Boston, NH
Get the car as far off of the ground as you can. Trans height plus any jack you use can make it difficult to get the unit out from under the car unless you have lots of room to work with. Also, getting to the bolts connecting the unit to the block, located at the top of the unit, are much easier to access with a couple of long (24"ish) extensions.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,503
Likes: 33
From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
It's heavy and awkward. Nice but not absolutely necessary to have extra hands. Watch for the coolant lines, vacuum line, and electrical connection on the passenger side as well as the linkage and speedometer cable on the driver side. As stated before, the tailshaft will leak badly so a spare yoke to put in while removing the tranny will minimize the mess. Also, once you unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate and pull the transmission away from the engine, use a piece of wire from side to side between opposite bellhousing bolt holes to keep the converter in place until you have the unit out. There is a lot of fluid in there, too.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: winterville NC
It's heavy and awkward. Nice but not absolutely necessary to have extra hands. Watch for the coolant lines, vacuum line, and electrical connection on the passenger side as well as the linkage and speedometer cable on the driver side. As stated before, the tailshaft will leak badly so a spare yoke to put in while removing the tranny will minimize the mess. Also, once you unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate and pull the transmission away from the engine, use a piece of wire from side to side between opposite bellhousing bolt holes to keep the converter in place until you have the unit out. There is a lot of fluid in there, too.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
I've wanted to make a set of those for a long time now!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Remove the distributor cap so when the engine tilts down at the rear it won't hit or break the cap. Take a look at the oil pressure sender too. I've heard of a couple of them that have gotten really close.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,233
Likes: 657
From: Thunder Bay
About 28" of clearance under the car is enough. You don't need a spare slip yoke. Just unbolt the driveshaft and remove it without removing the slip yoke from the transmission. You won't lose any fluid. The cooler lines are hard to get at, and they will leak some fluid when you disconnect them. I didn't need to remove the distributor, but be careful how much you lower the back of the engine. You will also need to unbolt the top of the rad shroud so it doesn't bind against the fan blade when you lower the back of the engine. That's pretty much the only way to access the upper bellhousing bolts, at least with man hands.
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Yuma Arizona
About 28" of clearance under the car is enough. You don't need a spare slip yoke. Just unbolt the driveshaft and remove it without removing the slip yoke from the transmission. You won't lose any fluid. The cooler lines are hard to get at, and they will leak some fluid when you disconnect them. I didn't need to remove the distributor, but be careful how much you lower the back of the engine. You will also need to unbolt the top of the rad shroud so it doesn't bind against the fan blade when you lower the back of the engine. That's pretty much the only way to access the upper bellhousing bolts, at least with man hands.
) but seriously I can't imagine installing a transmission in anything other than a shop with a lift if you need 28" of clearance. I'm about to reinstall my th350 and was hoping to do the job in my garage.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 7
From: Wentzville MO
Swapped my 350 to a 2004 R with jackstands, extra pair of hands and a couple of floor jacks. Raise and place jack stands safely, so you can get under on your creeper. Place a floor jack under the oil pan and remove fasteners. Once you have everything removed thats needed lower the jack under the tranny then slide it off on piece of cardboard or plywood, then you won't have to have the body raised that high. Little more of a challenge reinstalling ,but I have used this method a couple of times.
Last edited by donnie1956; Mar 2, 2014 at 08:22 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,086
Likes: 786
From: Lebanon Township New Jersey
I've done this job a number of times, by myself, with the car on jackstands - much less than 28 inches high. One additional tip I can offer, when you lower the trans with a floor jack, take the converter off as soon as you can while the trans is still under the car. Big weight reduction there. Then, as mentioned previously, slide the trans off the jack and onto a piece of cardboard. Pull the cardboard out with the trans on it. Lift up the back of the trans to lower the bellhousing top point as you slide under the frame. That makes the trans several inches lower and therefore less jackstand height required.
