rear spindle runout
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,750
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From: Central Wisconsin
rear spindle runout
I will be buying new rear spindles for my 73. Has anyone found when checking their new spindles that they have excessive runout? Is this something suspension experts look for and and correct? For the record I will be buying U.S. made spindles and assume they will be concentric but just wondering if anyone out there has found less than desirable specs.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,873
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From: Sonora CA
I do not know what the acceptable run-out is, (if any) on these spindles, but I did check mine the other day and found .0045 from true center, or a total of .009. These are brand new spindles and the shop that rebuilt the trailing arms in the first place, has them back to correct this.
This much run-out equated to about .0190 total at the rotor
This much run-out equated to about .0190 total at the rotor
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Wisconsin
I think thats a lot. I wonder if you can see a slight wobble in the tire going down the road. It would be interesting to know if anyone has removed the studs and machined a few thousandths off the outer face to true it up.
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
I do not know what the acceptable run-out is, (if any) on these spindles, but I did check mine the other day and found .0045 from true center, or a total of .009. These are brand new spindles and the shop that rebuilt the trailing arms in the first place, has them back to correct this.
This much run-out equated to about .0190 total at the rotor
This much run-out equated to about .0190 total at the rotor
A decent machine shop should be able to "skim" the spindle face with the studs removed to less than .001 total runout...
then reinstall the studs...put the rotors on and torqued properly....
and "skim" the rotor faces true to the skimmed spindle hub---scribe an index mark on the spindle hub & rotor face for future maintenance (not exactly the best way...but would be half the cost of the "right" way).
Last edited by doorgunner; Mar 2, 2014 at 02:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Wisconsin
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Wisconsin
I know, I hope Im not getting carried away here, but like you said above the factory machined the rotor after it was mounted on the spindle. That would take care of it right there. How many guys are putting in new spindles then new rotors and letting it go. You've got to feel that in the brake pedal.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,071
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From: S Nevada
Can you imagine the amount of run-out/wobble/vibration at the tire tread.
A decent machine shop should be able to "skim" the spindle face with the studs removed to less than .001 total runout...
then reinstall the studs...put the rotors on and torqued properly....
and "skim" the rotor faces true to the skimmed spindle hub---scribe an index mark on the spindle hub & rotor face for future maintenance (not exactly the best way...but would be half the cost of the "right" way).
A decent machine shop should be able to "skim" the spindle face with the studs removed to less than .001 total runout...
then reinstall the studs...put the rotors on and torqued properly....
and "skim" the rotor faces true to the skimmed spindle hub---scribe an index mark on the spindle hub & rotor face for future maintenance (not exactly the best way...but would be half the cost of the "right" way).
Now, the real question, who has the capability to do this? Who are you guys using?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Orange County Ca
[QUOTE=jr73;1586300085]I think thats a lot. I wonder if you can see a slight wobble in the tire going down the road. It would be interesting to know if anyone has removed the studs and machined a few thousandths off the outer face to true it up.
The rotor runout is more important than the tires. If you don't get the runout down, you will always have brake problems.
Have you looked at run out corrections shim plates. Worked for me.
The rotor runout is more important than the tires. If you don't get the runout down, you will always have brake problems.
Have you looked at run out corrections shim plates. Worked for me.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Wisconsin
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
AAAAHAA......someone who understands everything that needs to be done. Could you explain to the members how to use a dial indicator to index a rotor on a spindle hub to eliminate run-out without having to do any machine-work?
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Followed by the aww sh*t moment when we realize that the rear rotor will only fit in one position and still have the adjustment holes for the parking brake line up.
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
ROOKIES......what are we gonna do with 'em!?
(machine a new "hole"!)
Keep an eye on me, M.W. ..........I need all the help I can get.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Garland Texas
The "good" spindles have less than .0005 runout.
Everyone is assuming the problem with original spindles is just runout. The machining from the factory is horrible. The face is not perpendicular to the shaft and it is not flat. Then add years of rust build-up, improper wheel tightening, and those curbs that somehow jump out in front of you, just make it worse. I have machined hundreds of spindles and none of them are flat. The case-hardening on the face is very uneven. When GM trued the rotor after is was riveted to the spindle they did not true the wheel surface.
The company that made the original spindles had to do so under GM guidelines. By the mid-seventies quality dropped severely. That same company makes the new replacement spindles with far better quality. The hub face is now flywheel cut, not lathe cut. The flange is thicker and more uniform.
Mike