First Corvette, Things to look into
Needs a bit of work, but nothing too major. It's a 75 corvette, matching number, original interior. Don't know what the story is with the bumpers.
Bubah got to the car a little bit unfortunately and melted the back bumper with the muffler when it was installed i guess. That wasnt enough damage for him i guess so he cut it off half way under the body and called it good .
It's a happy California car so it only has surface rust. Has the hurst 4 speed transmission (Desperately needs a rebuild I think, makes grinding sounds when you slow down in gear), but it runs great.
Bleeding the brakes this weekend, could use a few tips. I'm wondering what kind of things I should keep an eye out for on the car while I'm under there.
Obligatory pics: http://s78.photobucket.com/user/the5.../75%20corvette
By the way, what the hell goes into the holes on the engine here.
http://s78.photobucket.com/user/the5...d596b.jpg.html
New Corvette! Nice!
Holes?
I see a plug in the water neck. Probably in another application a sensor is threaded into the neck.
I also see a threaded 'boss' in the intake manifold that may be used when the A.I.R. equipment that's been removed from your engine is in place? Or, it might be used to mount a bracket needed for a/c?
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
http://s78.photobucket.com/user/the5...d596b.jpg.html...
Congrats on the 75. Order the assembly instruction manual (AIM). AIMs are worth their price.
Nice looking car.
While you're bleeding the brakes, you might want to check out the condition of your rubber fuel lines where they connect the tank to the hard lines and the rubber lines at the fuel pump.
Also check out the condition of all the rubber bushings in the front and rear suspension.
Check for power steering fluid leaks. The Corvette system is prone to leaking as it ages. The hoses may be old or the control valve or cylinder could be leaking.
Good luck with your project.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I bought my 78 in 2011 and began the journey you're about to start. First things first, AIM, Haynes, Clymer, and Chassis maintenance manuals and YouTube is great.
I would recommend overhauling the brakes/master cylinder. Caution, you do this you will have to get new lip seals (and you may have to make a decision re: lip seal, o-ring, stainless steel sleeve,etc - personal preference)
I did this and rebuilt the master cylinder...all I can say is yuck...the stuff that came out was disgusting sludge - and the brakes worked!
Secondly, I would just plain commit to replacing the rubber. I put it off and within the first 2 years of driving, replaced every hose but the rads - just a matter of time...
Recommend a wheel alignment/suspension check. Mechanic said ball joints are either gone or bad. So I am in the middle of a complete rebuild this year (more of a while I am it project really...)
That's all just my personal experience and resulting advice. Take it for what it is

Good luck and have fun
I would recommend overhauling the brakes/master cylinder. Caution, you do this you will have to get new lip seals (and you may have to make a decision re: lip seal, o-ring, stainless steel sleeve,etc - personal preference)
I did this and rebuilt the master cylinder...all I can say is yuck...the stuff that came out was disgusting sludge - and the brakes worked!
Secondly, I would just plain commit to replacing the rubber. I put it off and within the first 2 years of driving, replaced every hose but the rads - just a matter of time...
Recommend a wheel alignment/suspension check. Mechanic said ball joints are either gone or bad. So I am in the middle of a complete rebuild this year (more of a while I am it project really...)
That's all just my personal experience and resulting advice. Take it for what it is

Good luck and have fun

While you're bleeding the brakes, you might want to check out the condition of your rubber fuel lines where they connect the tank to the hard lines and the rubber lines at the fuel pump.
Also check out the condition of all the rubber bushings in the front and rear suspension.
Check for power steering fluid leaks. The Corvette system is prone to leaking as it ages. The hoses may be old or the control valve or cylinder could be leaking.
Pretty sure you're right about the power steering is leaking. It had no fluid in it when I opened it up today.
On another note, I bled the brakes today and found out a couple of weird things about this car. It seems to have been restored frame up (To a degree) once before. The frame is painted, But ONLY in the front half. Bunch of other little things too. Interior is all original though.
Brakes are NOT power assisted, Steering is. They don't feel particularly strong, even after i bled them out.
Also, where do you guys tend to jack up the car? Do you do it right by the cross member, and then throw the jack stands in their normal locations by the wheels? Pops told me to do it just by the cross member and the door is a little misaligned now
Anyone have any experiences like this?Again, Thanks for all your advice.
My 78, you put the axle stands at the front and rear of the door (basically).
If the brakes are not strong after bleeding, you wanna wanna redo it and triple check your method (bench bleed master, inside caliper then outside, etc.)
I tried gravity bleeding for 3 days and it got me nowhere. I did the two person method and was perfect. Some swear by the gravity method...different strokes, different folks.
How do you chose a muffler? Is the engine of any sort of consideration in picking them? I'm eventually going to swap out the l48 for something with a bit more power; So if I got a new exhaust system now i'd want to make sure it was reusable. If exhaust systems and mufflers are more specific to the engine than i think they are, where can I get some decent used mufflers and parts?
Picking an exhaust system that is right for you is important. The first thing you need to figure out is what are your goals for the car? If you plan on an upgraded engine, that may affect your choice as what bolts into an L48 may not bolt into a 427 all aluminum power block of super light demon speed goodness!

(that being said, just a matter of chopping off the heads, replace and weld..but if you dont have to go through that...its better not to...)
But to give you some things to consider: Magnaflow and Flow Master.
Do dual exhaust no matter what you do.

If so, I was watching that C.L. ad for some time; looked like a good solid example - albeit needing a bumper cap? Same car?
Enjoy the journey! I'm a little envious; my '76 needs to have its 'tailpipe' examined every other year.

(that being said, just a matter of chopping off the heads, replace and weld..but if you dont have to go through that...its better not to...)
Replace the engine because I'm tired of factory specified 165 HP. (was thinking about ls1's, 427's, or TRYING to build my own engine)
Rebuild clutch and related systems
Rebuild transmission or replace with 5 speed
Power assisted brakes?
Paint, weatherstripping, frame paint,
Definitely going for dual exhaust, No two ways about it. Thinking that I'm going to do a crossover system like my dad's 68 has. Probably putting a magnaflow in because flowmaster (As much as I like it) would be too loud for some of the cruising I'll be doing.
Regardless of what I do, the mufflers SHOULD be reusable regardless of the engine then? I was thinking that if i had an engine that generated a lot of pressure, that it'd change the performance of the mufflers or that if the exhaust system had a different gauge it'd alter it as well.
I got a quote for a different system without any crossing over, but dual pipes and flowmaster for $800. Fair price?
Crossover exhaust and magnaflow exhaust, what do you est the price would be for it? Also, If i posted to the "for sale" forum, do you think i could find a decent pair of mufflers?
Thanks, You guys
Not sure how much experience you have with working on cars (I had none before I bought my vette), but I started with a year of pure maintenance that would be the equivalent of a comeplete tune up (as outlined in the Haynes manual). Now that I think about it...that year has been over 1100 days...
This will get you in just about every part of the car to see what needs to be done, and what you would like to have done.
One poster on this forum once said the order of restoration is:
1) Make it stop
2) Make it safe
3) Make it go
4) Make it go FAST

Good advice imo.
I have a 75 too!
I did dual pipes with Magnaflows. Also had them put in a X-over (they put in a H pipe between the two). I had them put the tail pipe as original to keep the exhaust from melting the tail. For looks, I had my exhaust manifolds powder coated steel grey. Look great after 4 years! I removed that butterfly valve on the passenger exhaust too, as my smog pump is gone.
Go with the true-flex on the bumpers. I glassed my nose in, so the line doesn't show. Looks 100% better. I put in a true-flex rear, but left the lines. I have seen another vette with the rear glassed in like my nose.. Looks sharp.
Replace the hoses. soft lines on the brakes too. Check the bearings, and the U-joints.
Don't give up on that 350! SB Chevy's can be made into screamers with bolt-on parts.
Last edited by sfallison; Mar 21, 2014 at 09:51 AM.
When I began 'Vette shopping late last summer, I missed out on an okay deal on a '75 - also in need of a front bumper. However, my lowball offer was bested by another buyer. I kept looking at the car you bought, thinking I should check it out. But then, my '76 appeared, which I got for (in my opinion) very stupid money. So, even if it needs a DMV tailpipe cert (thankfully every OTHER year), I can live with it. Another good, stock example that drives well despite needing the usual things.
Yes - I'd like to see your 'Vette. Where's that show again?





















