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Ok over that two years I've been fighting the battle with spongy brakes on my 82 and finally found the culprit. Two of the four pistons were leaking in the right front caliper so I replaced both front calipers, new pads and brake lines. My question is do I have to bleed the complete system minus the MC or can I get away with just bleeding the fronts?
Ok over that two years I've been fighting the battle with spongy brakes on my 82 and finally found the culprit. Two of the four pistons were leaking in the right front caliper so I replaced both front calipers, new pads and brake lines. My question is do I have to bleed the complete system minus the MC or can I get away with just bleeding the fronts?
You're due for replacing all the brake fluid, so you should bleed the entire system. If you have a turkey baster, or similar, draw out the old fluid in the master so you don't run that old stuff through the lines and calipers.
Since it's a dual system, you can bleed either the front or rear first (flame suit is on). Within each system, bleed from the most distant bleed screw to the closest to the master.
You can go through two or more quarts to get all the air out. In the end, it's just a hydraulic brake system, so you CAN remove all the air.
The fluid in the car is clear because last year I bet I bled the system 4-5 different times trying to remedy the problem. That's why I was hoping to to bleed the fronts.
If you bleed just the front calipers and the brakes feel nice and firm, leave it at that. Air from the front part of the system should not be able to get into the rear system.
Well not the results I was looking for, same spongy brakes. If fact went out in the country and did a emergancy stop from about 40 mph and did not lock up and the brake light came on. I'm going to replace the rear calipers in a couple of days and see if that makes a difference. This is one thing I do not like about this car, it gets scary at times..
Well not the results I was looking for, same spongy brakes. If fact went out in the country and did a emergancy stop from about 40 mph and did not lock up and the brake light came on. I'm going to replace the rear calipers in a couple of days and see if that makes a difference. This is one thing I do not like about this car, it gets scary at times..
I went through a 6 week brake 'lesson.' After replacing all FIVE calipers (one of the replacements was bad out of the box), front cross-over, lines, MC and power booster, I failed repeatedly to get all the air out, applying several bleeding methods in the process. Throwing in the towel, I brought a shop into the project. BADA BING! Three of my fittings were loose and sucking air.
I think when they're working well, these brakes are quite good. My car stops reliably in a straight line. But, for how long they'll remain that way- I can't say. From all I've read, brakes are among the top frustrations of C3 ownership.
I think when they're working well, these brakes are quite good. My car stops reliably in a straight line. But, for how long they'll remain that way- I can't say. From all I've read, brakes are among the top frustrations of C3 ownership.
Stay with it; success will be yours.
When well and properly maintained, these brakes are excellent. They didn't really start giving problems when the cars were newer and driven regularly. Later when most of them were parked is when the problems started.
Pete
I agree just wish I could get the spongyness to go away. I have replaced the booster, mc (twice) front calipers and hoses and now I'm going to replace the rear calipers. Go from there I guess.
How old are the flex hoses (between hard lines and calipers)? Old flex hoses can disintegrate inside and give you all kinds of funky responses.
Well last night when I replaced the calipers the original black hoses where blacking my hands badly but last year I bought a stainless hose kit from one of the vendors and replaced them with those just for the front. So when I do the rears those lines will get replaced as well. Yea the hoses seemed brittle.