I own a driver-quality 1970 4-speed coupe. Bought it for $7k in Jan 2012. Fun car. I do ALL the work to the car myself. I just got done with a major engine-bay cleanup which included a new 450+ hp solid-roller 350.

I knew the car was in a previous accident. Long ago. Drives straight as an arrow. The hit was in the passenger front wheel. Body work looks pretty good. Welding work looks pretty good. Didn't make a big deal out of it for the price-point I purchased at. That, among other things, took the price from an original asking of $9k.

I've run across numerous issues that have made me consider replacing the frame:

• I know the passenger side motor mount is pushed rearward about 1 inch from where it's supposed to be.
• I know the passenger front wheel is "into" the car about 3/4" more than the other three wheels...there is more fender overhang on that one wheel...evidence that the suspension didn't "land" quite where it was supposed to.
• I know there are some 7 shims on the front a-arm from trying to align it.
• I know the car has a slight 'list' to the driver's side because of the front suspension.
• I know the passenger's a-arms are at a different 'angle of attack' than the driver's side.
• I know I have old dogleg rust. Passenger side has repairs. Still solid but it's there.
• Something isn't quite right about the way the front sway arm bolts in...still something bent up in there
• There's some welding damage (or some type of damage) to the cross-member at the exhaust pass-through. Something broke off...just odd looking. One of those things that doesn't impact much.

I've considered "new" frames, but can't/won't pay $7k for one. Also, many of them all but require you to use C4 or C5 suspension components. I (and my wife) want to keep my car “old”.

I’ve gotten a line on a local, unrestored, straight frame that looks really nice for $2k. I may even be able to get that down a smidge. That way I can do the work myself. I have floor space, sandblaster, etc.

My goal is to restore the frame, perhaps gusset it, install a removable cross-member kit, and start hanging new/restored suspension parts off it while I’m driving my car. New rubber, rebuilt rear end, new Spicer shafts, offset trailing arms, restored hubs, Wilwood brake kits, new brake and fuel lines, etc.

At some point in the next year or two, I will then remove my ‘complete’ body and my new engine and “swap” all my stuff that I’m keeping onto the “new” rolling chassis. My trans and engine, radiator, etc.

Are there others that have done a frame swap? Not that I’m trying to over-simplify it…I know there are many nuances to the task, but as a general “ship’s heading”, am I too far off the mark?

My wife has offered to purchase the frame for my 40th birthday, so I’m trying to get some things figured out mentally before I pull the trigger on this…

Thanks for anyone's insight into the matter.

 

I love your plan. Detail the second frame as much as you want, at your own pace with basically zero downtime until the body install? And a (limited) window where the SO is willing to buy you a frame?

No brainer. Trigger: pulled.

 

Speaking as an "expert" on frame swaps, I did the deed on my "80. I replaced mine, not because of an accident, but from rust damage. The rocker channels and #3 body mount locations were completely destroyed. I had designs on replacing sections of the frame, but by chance I happened to come across a replacement from another '80. It was sitting out back behind the Corvette Shop. Lucky me.



I ran a bead under the frame over the original spot welds. I didn't see a need for gussets. Then it was dipped to remove any grease and surface rust, then powder coated.



This is where I am to date. The new 5-speed is on the way. Crate engine this summer and body back on in the fall.



All in all, I'm glad I did it. I wasn't confident that turning my original frame into a "frankenframe" would have falling within Chevrolet specs for frame dimensions. Swapping it out gave me a perfect frame and piece of mind. I say "Do it" mate.

 

This is the type of feedback that makes me very pleased about the possibility.

Money is money and I hate to spend it. But frames aren't getting any cheaper, that's for sure.

My engine builder would LOVE to sell me more engine parts, for sure, but he fully endorses this frame project. He knows the car almost as well as I do and to him it is a no-brainer.

And I appreciate the sentiment, Mr. Vettebuyer5869, that I can take as long as I like to detail the frame as much as I choose.

My plan would be to, obviously, recondition the frame. Then take my time accumulating and installing new parts to make the 'rolling chassis' as complete as I care to make it.

I'm not trying to be too unrealistic, but I'd like to think the engine/trans swap could be done pretty quickly.

I've never removed the body from the frame, but it doesn't seem that other folks have put it in the "total PITA crisis" category.

My plan would be to keep the body as complete as possible. Unless someone warns me against it, I'd like to keep the doors and seats in the car. My brother has a Kubota tractor with a 1,800# rated lifting capacity. I'm quite certain, though, that it can handle a little more than that. Either that, or I'll fashion a jig. Will do more research once I get to that point.

I'm encouraged.

My wife offered this up out of the blue yesterday. I mentioned that I had found a frame and that this was the "next step" in my car. We took a big trip to Puerto Rico for her 40th and she had noticed that I offered absolutely no desire to take a big trip. I think she was trying to find something 'special' that I could spend a chunk of money on for my birthday that I could NEVER get authorization to spend otherwise.

She offered, so now I'm actually thinking about it. Waiting to get more info on the final offer on the frame itself. And now that I'm serious, I want to go out there with a tape measure and satisfy myself that it is straight as an arrow.

Thanks for the input and support. Look forward to hearing other's thoughts.

 

The frame swap seems like a good idea and your right, the parts aren't getting any cheaper, but have you considered taking your car to a reputable repair shop and having the frame checked and straightened. It may be a lot cheaper...Just a thought

 

I have considered that, but it would not correct the dogleg issues. If it took $1000 to get the frame straightened, I'd still have some other things to correct, is what I'm saying.

And to get the frame pulled right, I would presume that it would be best to have the frame bare.

If I'm going through the trouble, I want to do it and be done with it. It would be worth the 'extra' money to me to get the down-time down to effectively zero and have a no-repair frame as the starting point for my car.

So...if we were talking $200 to $2,000, I'd consider it. But I would presume it would take more than that to straighten and fix my frame. And, as I said, I'd be without my car the whole time.

Thanks for the thought, though.

 

How detailed are you thinking? Would you reuse anything from the current frame? Either suspensions? Fuel and brake lines? Fuel tank? Rear differential? A lot of money in these parts, maybe consider it a winter project and recondition and install these parts over a couple months?

 

Just so you know, if you find a straight, rust-free frame for your 1970 vette under $2,000 you have a good deal on your hands. Remember, straight and rust free.

 

Good question, Mr. LeMans Pete.

I do OK for myself, but I don't have an endless volume of cash to pour into this endeavour. I was just looking at another thread with awesome VanSteel tubular a-arms and coilovers and stuff...a little rich for my blood.

I'm thinking of fully stripping, blasting, and reconditioning frame. May powder coat, but will probably just paint. Won't dip if it doesn't need dipping. So...basis is my newly reconditioned frame.

I'd get ALL new rubber. New brake lines. New fuel lines.

New (or refurbish purchased used) front a-arms, refurbish used purchased front knuckles, new bearings, and a new front Wilwood brake/rotor. New front shocks. New studs. New roll bar. Basically all new/freshened front stuff.

I'd like to do a Steeroids setup. I'd like that very much. If that doesn't pan out, I'll get a rebuilt steering box and refurbish some linkage.

I'd get new offset trailing arms, definitely. A new rear spring. New shocks. Same Wilwood brake/rotor treatment in the rear.

I'd get new oversized/super-duty driveshafts.

So all that would be "new to me" parts while I'm driving my car.

This is where it starts getting fuzzy.

I would like to purchase and refurbish a rear differential, but don't want to go nuts on the price.

I would like to purchase and rebuild a transmission, but I don't want to go nuts on the price. I'd REALLY like a 5 speed, but that probably won't work out. That's why I want to do the removable cross-member mod, so I can do that later without pulling the engine. Depending on where I am with money and time, I could swap my trans over and not give it a second thought...I've had ZERO issues with it so far.

EVERYTHING under my hood is brand new. I would be swapping bellhousing to the fan without even touching it, really. Already have new radiator.

I wouldn't mind replacing my radiator support, but that isn't imperative.

I'd use my fuel tank. I'd use my wiring.

I don't have a definite budget or timeframe. I'd like to to "the swap" over the winter. Probably not this winter, though. I think it would be more reasonable to do it over the 2015/16 winter.

I couldn't drive my car for 16 months while the engine project was taking place...that was too long. Optimally, I'd start disassembly in a December and wrap up the following February. 3 months build time. Test and tune in March, and hit the roads in April.

My kids will be 10 and 12, so perhaps they'll have some interest. That will make it a LITTLE easier to spend some time in the garage...

 

I wouldn't go through the trouble otherwise.

I'm anxious to see the frame myself. I'm hoping it to be in similar or better condition than the one pictured in Mr. 80Baby's response.

I am OK with $2k if it is a nice frame.

My fear, really, is that I pass it up and decide to do this project in 5 years...THEN try to find a frame. By then I fear frames will start to get REALLY expensive. That's really the driving force in getting this done sooner than later.

 

nice read and a good story, good luck with your project

 

I am just down the road from Caledonia Classic Cars (616) 794-5026 in Belding, Michigan. They make new frames and the parts for them. I have seen their ads in the Corvette magazines over the years but never visited them.
I would be happy to go look at any of their frames and take pics if you like. Just shoot me a PM.
I also met the rep from Paul Newman at Bloomington Gold. He was selling a good frame from an 82 that he was doing a swap on. Might be a good idea to contact him or the folks from SRIII as their customers are good prospects for used frames.

 

It sounds like a solid plan. I had my driver corvette to keep me happy while the 72 was blown apart. I recently sold it to cover the paint job, now I'm rushing to get it to the painter. I need a vette fix bad! A body swap can be done pretty quick. Stick to your original plan, low budget. I'm sure a steeroids is nice, but necessary? Same with trans. I rebuilt my Muncie for under $200. I powder coated my stuff. Dropped it off at the powder coater, 10 days later picked it up looking brand new. Extremely durable finish. Make a budget and let it be your guide.

 

I really appreciate the input and thoughts. I'm really hoping this local frame works out.

I have my old LT-1 Camel Hump heads, a good set of sidepipe headers, a complete LT-1 TI system, and an original LT-1 carb with correct metering blocks that I'm hoping to put in the mix as a partial trade/barter.

The guy who owns the frame rebuilds stuff, specifically Corvettes, and my engine builder (now frame broker) believes he'll work with me.

So, for the moment, hold that thought and let me chase down this lead for a week. If it falls flat on its face, I'll PM you. Those are all excellent thoughts.

So everyone knows, this isn't my first foray into frames...just the first hard lead I've had on a solid frame at a decent price. I asked a few non-local folks a few weeks ago and all the "bare frame" prices (no rehab, no sandblasting, nothing) were $3,500 to $4,500. It was discouraging, to say the least.

I don't disagree with the Steeroids thought. I can find a lot of uses for the gaping chasm between a $160 rebuilt box and a $1,300 Steeroids system. I know its better, but I can always add it later. Probably a good call.

Same with the trans. 60% chance I will drop my entire engine/clutch/trans setup onto the new frame without even cracking it open. I have <250 miles on the engine/clutch as I write this. 30% chance I'll open the trans and rebuild it. 10% chance I'll get a different trans.

I have a really good local powdercoater who can handle frames, so I'll probably get them to price it out. They do exceptional work and if it is under $500 for them to blast it and coat it, that'd be a no-brainer.

 

I'm kind of surprised frame prices are that high , but I am uneducated and have not been looking for one.

 

What I've seen:

$3,500-$4,000 for a bare, straight, unrestored frame.

$4,500-$5,000 for a restored and PAINTED frame.

$5,000 for a used rolling chassis. Nothing touched.

$7,000 for a NOS frame.

$7,000+ for a new Collier or SRIII frame depending on options.

Honestly, the Rolling Chassis price is something that caught my eye. That actually isn't too bad...I just like parsing my money out bit by bit. Don't usually have $5k burning a hole in my pocket all at once.

I've been looking, off and on, for 2 years on Craigslist and eBay. The lead that prompted my original post is the best one I've found so far. Crossing my fingers.

 

Picked up a replacement frame for my '73 last month. It DOES have some rust issues, but the issues were fewer and easier to deal with than the issues with my original frame. It needs new end caps, and the #3 crossmember is in need of repair. Oh and it also needs #3 body mount work.

I paid 800 for the frame.

I'll have another hundred in materials in it when it's restored, painted and ready for the swap.

 

Sounds like what I'd be willing to pay for this one if I need to get into a bunch of repairs...

Sounds like you did OK. Hope it goes OK for me too.

 

NEW QUESTION:

I just talked to my 'connection' to the frame and he wants to be sure we can identify the difference between a frame that WORKS and DOESN'T WORK at a glance.

I can see that Mr. 80Baby's crossmember is vastly different than mine. That's a good start.

Is there something that is "key" to a frame that will work (not talking correctness...I'm talking working-ness) with my 1970 4-speed car?

What changed in 1974 that makes them NOT work?

What is the difference with a pre-'69 frame that makes those NOT work?

What is the primary difference between an auto and 4-speed frame?

If it is a minor bracket issue or a hole I need to drill, that's one thing. If it is a FUNDAMENTAL difference, I'd like to understand what it is so I can identify it at a glance.

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!! You guys are great.

 

I may have answered my own question with some additional research...

I think I'm looking for a car that DOES have the "kickup" gussets near the doglegs that were added in mid-1968 but DOES NOT have the "hydraulic bumper shock" tubes that were added in 1975?

If I'm creeping in on the right answer there, I'm still trying to find the big difference between an auto and 4-speed frame...