Power window switch replacement?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
Power window switch replacement?
Well my right power switch went on the fritz for the up position so has anyone replaced there switch with the cheap aftermarket ones? How is the quality? I see trhem range anywhere from $15 to $25.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
I took mine out. Gently pried it open. Cleaned the contacts, repositioned the copper spring like mechanism and reinstalled. Works like new.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If it has completely stopped, the switch is not the most likely cause. But, it is still 'in the running' for being at fault.
Usually, the switch will gradually cause the window to operate slower...and s l o w e r....and s - l - o - w - e - r....because the contacts get crudded up and add resistance to the circuit.
When you get down to the switch, use a voltmeter to check for power coming out of the switch. If there is none when you activate the switch, then the switch is the culprit. If you DO get power out of the switch, then you could have a motor failure, or the wiring could be broken (usually inside the rubber boot between body and door...but it could be anywhere in the line).
Whatever you find, you should still remove the switches (if they are GM units), open them up, and clean them of any corrosion. Also put some NON-conductive dielectric grease on those contacts before reassembly.
Wish you luck with the trouble-shooting and repair.
Usually, the switch will gradually cause the window to operate slower...and s l o w e r....and s - l - o - w - e - r....because the contacts get crudded up and add resistance to the circuit.
When you get down to the switch, use a voltmeter to check for power coming out of the switch. If there is none when you activate the switch, then the switch is the culprit. If you DO get power out of the switch, then you could have a motor failure, or the wiring could be broken (usually inside the rubber boot between body and door...but it could be anywhere in the line).
Whatever you find, you should still remove the switches (if they are GM units), open them up, and clean them of any corrosion. Also put some NON-conductive dielectric grease on those contacts before reassembly.
Wish you luck with the trouble-shooting and repair.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
I've been trying to pry it apart but don't have the correct tool like what Wilcox uses. I did notice it worked when I was moving around the switch plug and that is how I was able to get the window up.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I believe that you can use just a pair of needle-nosed pliers or a small screwdriver to bend the retaining tangs back so that you can disassemble it.
Your problem IS corroded terminals in the switch. Repair both of them, while you are at it.
Your problem IS corroded terminals in the switch. Repair both of them, while you are at it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
You just need to bend them up enough to get the board out. One side is usually good enough.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,372
Likes: 223
From: Beecher Illinois
Good chance the tabs will break off rather than bend up and back down again.
No big deal, just clamp the switch in a vise and with a hammer and screwdriver stake down material along both sides to hold it together.
And watch that it goes back together the same way it came apart. If you get the insides 180* off the window will operate opposite than it did.
I mean that pushing the switch forward will make it go up instead of down.
No big deal, just clamp the switch in a vise and with a hammer and screwdriver stake down material along both sides to hold it together.
And watch that it goes back together the same way it came apart. If you get the insides 180* off the window will operate opposite than it did.
I mean that pushing the switch forward will make it go up instead of down.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
For what its worth, I bought a genuine GM switch a few years ago and then a much cheaper Chinese "reproduction" part for the other side.
Except for the box, they were the same identical switch. The GM box did not appear to be worth the extra twenty dollars, or so, as it was small and I couldn't find another use for it.
Try what the others suggested, fixing your old one. You don't have anything to lose.
Except for the box, they were the same identical switch. The GM box did not appear to be worth the extra twenty dollars, or so, as it was small and I couldn't find another use for it.
Try what the others suggested, fixing your old one. You don't have anything to lose.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
While in the video I said "Side Cutter" it is actually a front cutter tool for wire... It works great for this job and you should be able to pick one up at your local hardware store.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If you can't get the switch opened up, you are being too "dainty" with it. hold the switch body in a vise (with cardboard or other protection against the part to keep from scratching it up) and BEND the darned tabs with your needle-nosed pliers.
THIS IS PART OF A CAR...not a sewing machine.
Like stated above, do it slowly and just enough to get the little board out. If that 'crimp' does break off the edge, just crimp in another area when you go back together (body in vise; light hammer tap on screwdrive against that edging).
THIS IS PART OF A CAR...not a sewing machine.
Like stated above, do it slowly and just enough to get the little board out. If that 'crimp' does break off the edge, just crimp in another area when you go back together (body in vise; light hammer tap on screwdrive against that edging).
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
dielectric grease is correct. That is a NON-conductive grease that prevents air from getting to the contacts so that arcing won't carbon them up. Do NOT get conductive grease, or you will short-out the system. (Radio Shack sells dielectric grease).
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
I just watched the video after I posted. I see it mentions the sand paper.
Let us know how you make out.
Jim
Last edited by jdp6000; Apr 15, 2014 at 05:34 PM.
