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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 01:48 PM
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my heater core just started leaking I have a/c I will have it repaired but I need to go 30 mil to work . what this be bad for my engine.
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 01:50 PM
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by pass the heater core until you can get it fixed.
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
by pass the heater core until you can get it fixed.
when I bypass the core will my a/c stop working .
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by nutben
when I bypass the core will my a/c stop working .
No. It won't effect the AC
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by nutben
how many gallons of collant does my 350/w ac take .
The 1974 350 V8 takes 18 US quarts if you can get all of the old out (e.g. pulling out block frost plugs). I have done the heater core and lost about 4 quarts, perhaps less, with careful clamping of the 5/8" and 3/4" heater hoses.





If you wish to do things without a lot of work, just run a hose from the waterpump spout to the spout on the intake manifold. Before I did the real job, I drove like this for about three weeks.


Last edited by Paul L; Apr 17, 2014 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 01:40 PM
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I also have a 74. Isn't there an inline valve in your heater supply hose? I think most did or had them added. If so, shut the valve off. This will prevent engine coolant from entering heater core. If your in a pinch, take a pair of vise grips and pinch the inlet heater hose off until you can get it repaired..
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MrJlr
No. It won't effect the AC
I just saw the pass-side manifold is crack never done this work before is there a- lot of labor involed its a 350/w ac
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by nutben
I just saw the pass-side manifold is crack never done this work before is there a- lot of labor involed its a 350/w ac
Can you post a picture in this thread of the manifold crack?

That would help.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Can you post a picture in this thread of the manifold crack?

That would help.
Agreed. You have added a new dimension to your problems. Need a pic.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Can you post a picture in this thread of the manifold crack?

That would help.
I will send a pic the crack is dead center from top to bottom .
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by nutben
I will send a pic the crack is dead center from top to bottom .
Please take no offense, but where are you located?
There seems there might be a language barrier.

We don't know your mechanical skills, this might be a job for a professional.

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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MrJlr
Please take no offense, but where are you located?
There seems there might be a language barrier.

We don't know your mechanical skills, this might be a job for a professional.

hey I take no offense just need plaine advice I am in hacienda heights ca were the language is the same as yours as for my mech skills . will just say I my need a prof. still need advice if anyone can help , will send pic.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by nutben
hey I take no offense just need plaine advice I am in hacienda heights ca were the language is the same as yours as for my mech skills . will just say I my need a prof. still need advice if anyone can help , will send pic.
Ok, cool. Changing a cylinder head is not all that difficult.
The coolant in you passenger foot well is unrelated to the cylinder head problem.

Do you have proper tools like wrenches, sockets, a torque wrench, jack, jack stands, etc?

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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 10:11 AM
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Snapping off an exhaust manifold bolt is not one of my favourite projects! That is normally followed by snapping off exhaust pipe studs. I would make a list of your needs and get an estimate from a pro. Watching them get the studs to the right shade of red before pulling them out is a treat to watch.
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by paul 74
Snapping off an exhaust manifold bolt is not one of my favourite projects! That is normally followed by snapping off exhaust pipe studs. I would make a list of your needs and get an estimate from a pro. Watching them get the studs to the right shade of red before pulling them out is a treat to watch.
hey paul 74 I will get quotes I want to replace both manifolds . I don't think it would wise to have one installed /it would be like replaceing one break and not the other, want do you think . I like your info .
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by MrJlr
Ok, cool. Changing a cylinder head is not all that difficult.
The coolant in you passenger foot well is unrelated to the cylinder head problem.

Do you have proper tools like wrenches, sockets, a torque wrench, jack, jack stands, etc?

I'm not sure....but I don't think the head or the (intake) manifold-passenger-side is damaged....but I could be w-w-wrong.

I think we're narrowing it down to (exhaust) manifold(s) and possibly heater core leaking on floorboard or leaking at firewall heater core inlet/outlet??????
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Patro46
I also have a 74. Isn't there an inline valve in your heater supply hose? I think most did or had them added. If so, shut the valve off. This will prevent engine coolant from entering heater core. If your in a pinch, take a pair of vise grips and pinch the inlet heater hose off until you can get it repaired..
so I have taken care of the heater core problem for now by following your advise and closing off the valve.
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Can you post a picture in this thread of the manifold crack?

That would help.
here is a pic of the crack in the manifold. also here is a pic of my ride finally.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Apr 21, 2014 | 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by nutben
so I have taken care of the heater core problem for now by following your advise and closing off the valve.
There are two hoses going to the heater core, one supply, one return. However, just blocking or closing one, even the supply one, will not necessarily stop the leak. Remember that the coolant is under pressure that is regulated by the pressure rating of the radiator cap. If the cooling system is under pressure, and it will be when at operating temperature, then the coolant pressure will "seek out" any avenue to atmospheric pressure. If you have a leak at your heater core, then that is where the coolant will find its way to atmospheric pressure. Even if it is along the return hose.

You need to disconnect and seal BOTH hoses.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
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Old Apr 21, 2014 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Patro46
I also have a 74. Isn't there an inline valve in your heater supply hose? I think most did or had them added. If so, shut the valve off. This will prevent engine coolant from entering heater core. If your in a pinch, take a pair of vise grips and pinch the inlet heater hose off until you can get it repaired..
hey I installed a inline shut off valve I just pinch the outlet hose going to the heat core with vise grips cut the hose . that made it easy to work with . it works ,
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