72 Vert Lite RestoMod Project
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 586
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From: Alexandria VA
72 Vert Lite RestoMod Project
Ok, I'm starting this sooner than planned but because an engine issue has cropped up that may cause it to detonate I've decided to park it and start on the restoration work now. The approach I'm taking is to work on the bottom half of the car moving from the stern to the bow and then do the motor and interior.
The first thing I am doing is dropping the fuel tank, removing the tail light assemblies and bumper brackets so I can begin working the frame issues. I plan to knock the rust back and spray as much of the frame as I can with rust inhibitor. With the tank out of the way this becomes a much easier job I believe.
The following photos are of the various pieces I am focusing on now and as progress moves forward I will continue to share. Currently, I've removed the fuel from the tank (truck is now half full) and removed the connections from the sending unit. As you may be able to see in the photos I have already run into an issue. The male end on the sending unit was frozen into the wiring harness so I'll need to address that when the new tank goes in. Today the tank comes down.
Enjoy the ride.
The first thing I am doing is dropping the fuel tank, removing the tail light assemblies and bumper brackets so I can begin working the frame issues. I plan to knock the rust back and spray as much of the frame as I can with rust inhibitor. With the tank out of the way this becomes a much easier job I believe.
The following photos are of the various pieces I am focusing on now and as progress moves forward I will continue to share. Currently, I've removed the fuel from the tank (truck is now half full) and removed the connections from the sending unit. As you may be able to see in the photos I have already run into an issue. The male end on the sending unit was frozen into the wiring harness so I'll need to address that when the new tank goes in. Today the tank comes down.
Enjoy the ride.
Last edited by Ranger24; Jun 7, 2014 at 08:16 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Columbus OH
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2014
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Good luck with the project, I'm following it, as for the connector, buy a new one & crimp it in place, an entirely new harness would be a total pain, but I've cracked into the center console to see an electricians nightmare in my car, so when the time (& money) come to truly tear apart the car, wiring is going to be a high priority after sanding & painting the frame... 30+ year old wiring is never to be trusted
2026 Loser of the Year
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
then as the other member said------Buy a new connector/
cut off the rusted connector/
slip heat-shrink onto the original wiring/
splice the new connector into the original wiring/
SOLDER the splices/
slide the heat shrink over the soldered connections and heat-shrink it.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 586
Likes: 10
From: Alexandria VA
If there is enough still protruding from the sending unit, you could clean off the rust and solder an extension to it........
then as the other member said------Buy a new connector/
cut off the rusted connector/
slip heat-shrink onto the original wiring/
splice the new connector into the original wiring/
SOLDER the splices/
slide the heat shrink over the soldered connections and heat-shrink it.
then as the other member said------Buy a new connector/
cut off the rusted connector/
slip heat-shrink onto the original wiring/
splice the new connector into the original wiring/
SOLDER the splices/
slide the heat shrink over the soldered connections and heat-shrink it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,192
Likes: 343
From: Allenton Wisconsin
If the plastic housing is OK, they sell new copper ends, both male & female that you can replace. You should be able to get them from any good parts house. T
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Pro
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From: Alexandria VA
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: North Easton Mass
What are you painting the parts with? If you aren't using a base prep like RustBullet or POR-15 you may be just wasting your effort. Grinding to bare metal is good but ordinary paint will start rusting again very quickly.
Rick B.
Rick B.
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Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Alexandria VA
Thanks for the heads up, I appreciate the input. I'm using Eastwood Rust Ecapsulator, which acts as a primer and rust inhibitor. According to the tech at the company it can be sprayed on clean rust or clean bare metal.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Alexandria VA
Parts for the tank came in along with the tail light housings. I couldn't wait for the weekend so I assembled the tank with the exception of the sending unit. I won't put that on until the tank is mounted in the car.