1968 Corvette Stingray Estimate
http://www.trucks2cars.com/car-detai...342909764.html
http://www.trucks2cars.com/car-detai...342909764.html
R
R
Found this on ebay with motor pictures.
No disrespect, but attempting to purchase a car you have not seen and inspected can lead to a very disappointing and costly mistake.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Jun 22, 2014 at 11:02 AM.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...anne-blue.html
I see many tears in your future if you think this is a wise way to proceed.




Careful. If you are looking for correct, this probably isnt what you want. If it doesnt matter, know what the car is and make sure the price is commiserate.
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Some issues:
1. Rear valence panel has been fiberglassed in where the exhaust openings used to be.
2. Looks like left backup light has been painted blue.
3. Obvious up in the air look to the rear. It could be a new spring, or it could be other issues. Mine is sitting like that and it has the original spring. However, it sat a few years in the air and the spring has developed a new arc to it. Mine is settling back to normal but not there yet. The lack of the weight of a spare and the exhaust could have changed this some. and it could be adjusted out, if they have the wrong spring bolts.
4. Brake and clutch pedals worn out.
5. Hurst shifter non-stock.
6. Front grills painted wrong.
7. Hood is open, so it throws off the angles. However, the front left corner is still high. It could be the wrong shims, or it could be the front end has had bodywork.
8. Has '69 louver trim (chrome).
9. Has aftermarket black plastic versions of the 1969 only stock sidepipes.
10. didn't paint the rear louver black.
11. May have 8 inch rally wheels on rear and 7 inch on front. S/B 7" all around. (I run 8", they ride better.)
12. Lots of engine non-stock stuff.
13. Non-stock master cylinder.
14. Missing emissions sticker on brake mount box.
15. Some pictures missing door opener button, but others have them. Maybe have been progress pictures.
If this is along the lines of what you want, then it looks like it is work going to see even with 6 hours. Take a friend, have money, and bring it home if it works out. However, don't impulse buy. If this is the first one you have actually looked at and drove, then you could easily be seduced.
I'd recommend looking at least at 4 or 5 before going, so you have a basis for comparison. Any '63 to '82 to look at and drive will give you something to compare.
Check the frame by the exhaust opening. The steel should ring with a tap from a small metal object (very small hammer, closed pocket knife, open end wrench, etc.) everywhere around that corner. If a dull thud, then rust is bad. There should definitely not be rusted out holes. A keyhole should be visible and be roughly 1/8" thick steel.
1979
left rear frame corner
right rear frame corner
1968
Left Rear Frame Corner
Right Rear Frame Corner
Check the windshield post and top frame for rust. Car wash works well, or at least a garden hose, if you can't remove the foot kick panels / speaker grills and check for rust in piles behind them.
Some issues:
1. Rear valence panel has been fiberglassed in where the exhaust openings used to be.
2. Looks like left backup light has been painted blue.
3. Obvious up in the air look to the rear. It could be a new spring, or it could be other issues. Mine is sitting like that and it has the original spring. However, it sat a few years in the air and the spring has developed a new arc to it. Mine is settling back to normal but not there yet. The lack of the weight of a spare and the exhaust could have changed this some. and it could be adjusted out, if they have the wrong spring bolts.
4. Brake and clutch pedals worn out.
5. Hurst shifter non-stock.
6. Front grills painted wrong.
7. Hood is open, so it throws off the angles. However, the front left corner is still high. It could be the wrong shims, or it could be the front end has had bodywork.
8. Has '69 louver trim (chrome).
9. Has aftermarket black plastic versions of the 1969 only stock sidepipes.
10. didn't paint the rear louver black.
11. May have 8 inch rally wheels on rear and 7 inch on front. S/B 7" all around. (I run 8", they ride better.)
12. Lots of engine non-stock stuff.
13. Non-stock master cylinder.
14. Missing emissions sticker on brake mount box.
15. Some pictures missing door opener button, but others have them. Maybe have been progress pictures.
If this is along the lines of what you want, then it looks like it is work going to see even with 6 hours. Take a friend, have money, and bring it home if it works out. However, don't impulse buy. If this is the first one you have actually looked at and drove, then you could easily be seduced.
I'd recommend looking at least at 4 or 5 before going, so you have a basis for comparison. Any '63 to '82 to look at and drive will give you something to compare.
Check the frame by the exhaust opening. The steel should ring with a tap from a small metal object (very small hammer, closed pocket knife, open end wrench, etc.) everywhere around that corner. If a dull thud, then rust is bad. There should definitely not be rusted out holes. A keyhole should be visible and be roughly 1/8" thick steel.
1979
left rear frame corner
right rear frame corner
1968
Left Rear Frame Corner
Right Rear Frame Corner
Check the windshield post and top frame for rust. Car wash works well, or at least a garden hose, if you can't remove the foot kick panels / speaker grills and check for rust in piles behind them.
I will never buy a car site-unseen again! At least now if the car is far away I hire a Corvette specialty shop to do a pre-purchase inspection.
To be continued....











