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1968 Corvette Stingray Estimate

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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 10:11 AM
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Default 1968 Corvette Stingray Estimate

First time buyer looking to make an offer online. Any guesses to the value of this car. Two things stand out; the hood does not close completely and no photos from under the car. Thanks for your time.


http://www.trucks2cars.com/car-detai...342909764.html
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by joeba
First time buyer looking to make an offer online. Any guesses to the value of this car. Two things stand out; the hood does not close completely and no photos from under the car. Thanks for your time.


http://www.trucks2cars.com/car-detai...342909764.html
Yes no pics of the motor or more important the underneath. You really need to see the #4 body mounts. and rear frame rails. In talking with some NCRS people the 68 model is a very difficult year for parts because they were all made differently. I am finding that out with my 69. Good luck I hope it works out for you
R
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rvzio
Yes no pics of the motor or more important the underneath. You really need to see the #4 body mounts. and rear frame rails. In talking with some NCRS people the 68 model is a very difficult year for parts because they were all made differently. I am finding that out with my 69. Good luck I hope it works out for you
R
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Corvette-Stingray-1968-Chevrolet-Corvette-Stingray-Fully-Restored-/171363776286?forcerrptr=true&hash=item27e613b71e&item=171363776286&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
Found this on ebay with motor pictures.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 10:57 AM
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This car is not stock, if that matters to you. Regretfully, the listing doesn't say much. $17,500 might be on the high side.

No disrespect, but attempting to purchase a car you have not seen and inspected can lead to a very disappointing and costly mistake.

Last edited by Easy Mike; Jun 22, 2014 at 11:02 AM.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 11:22 AM
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Be careful.car is not original and based on condition of interior not restored but probably original
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 11:40 AM
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You seem intent on buying a car sight unseen

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...anne-blue.html

I see many tears in your future if you think this is a wise way to proceed.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 03:31 PM
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Thanks to everyone who has taken time to reply. No offense taken, I appreciate the honest and constructive feedback. My intention in this and other posts are to get the opinion of experts on value and then determine whether or money spent on a formal inspection is worth my time. I don't plan on purchasing anything sight unseen; just doing my due diligence before I drive 6-8 hours to see a car.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 03:59 PM
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Poor hood fit, added on side pipes (no sides in 1968) and incorrectly all glassed-in rear valance panel when covering up the holes. I have to wonder about an owner of a '68 that would describe it as a "Stingray," unless he's selling it for someone and doesn't know any better. Says numbers match, but seeing how completely modified the engine compartment is, you have to have a trusted source look at the engine numbers and trim tag before you consider travelling to see it.

Careful. If you are looking for correct, this probably isnt what you want. If it doesnt matter, know what the car is and make sure the price is commiserate.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 04:11 PM
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Four-by-four rear end and no spare tire carriage assembly. Just a thought.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 04:30 PM
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Its here too.

http://www.c3registry.com/index.php?...NDcar_id=20843
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by paul 74
Four-by-four rear end and no spare tire carriage assembly. Just a thought.
Too often people buy an aftermarket steel rear spring to save some money and they end up with a 4 x 4 look. I had my 68 for 10 years. This one had the alarm switch glassed over in the rear also. Doesn't have 68 wheels. Missing many orginal engine parts. I would pass
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 08:17 PM
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I wouldn't recommend a 68 vette as anyone's first corvette.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 09:05 PM
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It all depends on your intentions and needs. If you are looking for all stock or all original, then you need to look elsewhere. The engine may be the original block, bu tit has had a lot of non-stock work done.

Some issues:

1. Rear valence panel has been fiberglassed in where the exhaust openings used to be.

2. Looks like left backup light has been painted blue.

3. Obvious up in the air look to the rear. It could be a new spring, or it could be other issues. Mine is sitting like that and it has the original spring. However, it sat a few years in the air and the spring has developed a new arc to it. Mine is settling back to normal but not there yet. The lack of the weight of a spare and the exhaust could have changed this some. and it could be adjusted out, if they have the wrong spring bolts.

4. Brake and clutch pedals worn out.

5. Hurst shifter non-stock.

6. Front grills painted wrong.

7. Hood is open, so it throws off the angles. However, the front left corner is still high. It could be the wrong shims, or it could be the front end has had bodywork.

8. Has '69 louver trim (chrome).

9. Has aftermarket black plastic versions of the 1969 only stock sidepipes.

10. didn't paint the rear louver black.

11. May have 8 inch rally wheels on rear and 7 inch on front. S/B 7" all around. (I run 8", they ride better.)

12. Lots of engine non-stock stuff.

13. Non-stock master cylinder.

14. Missing emissions sticker on brake mount box.

15. Some pictures missing door opener button, but others have them. Maybe have been progress pictures.



If this is along the lines of what you want, then it looks like it is work going to see even with 6 hours. Take a friend, have money, and bring it home if it works out. However, don't impulse buy. If this is the first one you have actually looked at and drove, then you could easily be seduced.

I'd recommend looking at least at 4 or 5 before going, so you have a basis for comparison. Any '63 to '82 to look at and drive will give you something to compare.


Check the frame by the exhaust opening. The steel should ring with a tap from a small metal object (very small hammer, closed pocket knife, open end wrench, etc.) everywhere around that corner. If a dull thud, then rust is bad. There should definitely not be rusted out holes. A keyhole should be visible and be roughly 1/8" thick steel.

1979


left rear frame corner


right rear frame corner

1968


Left Rear Frame Corner


Right Rear Frame Corner


Check the windshield post and top frame for rust. Car wash works well, or at least a garden hose, if you can't remove the foot kick panels / speaker grills and check for rust in piles behind them.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by LS4 PILOT
I wouldn't recommend a 68 vette as anyone's first corvette.
My first was a 68. I still have it.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Procrastination Racing
It all depends on your intentions and needs. If you are looking for all stock or all original, then you need to look elsewhere. The engine may be the original block, bu tit has had a lot of non-stock work done.

Some issues:

1. Rear valence panel has been fiberglassed in where the exhaust openings used to be.

2. Looks like left backup light has been painted blue.

3. Obvious up in the air look to the rear. It could be a new spring, or it could be other issues. Mine is sitting like that and it has the original spring. However, it sat a few years in the air and the spring has developed a new arc to it. Mine is settling back to normal but not there yet. The lack of the weight of a spare and the exhaust could have changed this some. and it could be adjusted out, if they have the wrong spring bolts.

4. Brake and clutch pedals worn out.

5. Hurst shifter non-stock.

6. Front grills painted wrong.

7. Hood is open, so it throws off the angles. However, the front left corner is still high. It could be the wrong shims, or it could be the front end has had bodywork.

8. Has '69 louver trim (chrome).

9. Has aftermarket black plastic versions of the 1969 only stock sidepipes.

10. didn't paint the rear louver black.

11. May have 8 inch rally wheels on rear and 7 inch on front. S/B 7" all around. (I run 8", they ride better.)

12. Lots of engine non-stock stuff.

13. Non-stock master cylinder.

14. Missing emissions sticker on brake mount box.

15. Some pictures missing door opener button, but others have them. Maybe have been progress pictures.



If this is along the lines of what you want, then it looks like it is work going to see even with 6 hours. Take a friend, have money, and bring it home if it works out. However, don't impulse buy. If this is the first one you have actually looked at and drove, then you could easily be seduced.

I'd recommend looking at least at 4 or 5 before going, so you have a basis for comparison. Any '63 to '82 to look at and drive will give you something to compare.


Check the frame by the exhaust opening. The steel should ring with a tap from a small metal object (very small hammer, closed pocket knife, open end wrench, etc.) everywhere around that corner. If a dull thud, then rust is bad. There should definitely not be rusted out holes. A keyhole should be visible and be roughly 1/8" thick steel.

1979


left rear frame corner


right rear frame corner

1968


Left Rear Frame Corner


Right Rear Frame Corner


Check the windshield post and top frame for rust. Car wash works well, or at least a garden hose, if you can't remove the foot kick panels / speaker grills and check for rust in piles behind them.
Thank you Procrastination Racing. This is more than I expected and I appreciate you taking the time to assist me. I need to be more patient. I saw a car this weekend and it was as advertised, but they also failed to mention multiple issues not noticeable until seen in person.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
This car is not stock, if that matters to you. Regretfully, the listing doesn't say much. $17,500 might be on the high side.

No disrespect, but attempting to purchase a car you have not seen and inspected can lead to a very disappointing and costly mistake.
Mike is right. 15 Years ago, I bought my 1972 Vert from a dealer in PA. It was a Vette that didn't make reserve price on eBay so I bought it "off eBay". I did not see the car. When I got the car it was nothing like described in the eBay description and was leaking puddles from every gasket, and wouldn't even start off the trailer towed to my house. It was a nightmare. It was listed as having AC, it did not. When confronted, the dealer just shrugged his shoulders.
I will never buy a car site-unseen again! At least now if the car is far away I hire a Corvette specialty shop to do a pre-purchase inspection.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 05:40 PM
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Some undercarriage photos from the seller















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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 06:21 PM
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That looks good from the pictures. Would also like the see the frame mounts next to the foot wells.

When will you see it??
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ddawson
That looks good from the pictures. Would also like the see the frame mounts next to the foot wells.

When will you see it??
I continuing to press the seller for updated photos of the completed project. Some pictures on ebay the mirrors and door locks were missing and any documentation to justify his claim of it being a numbers matching car. I will probably wait until after the auction is over to make a trip down.

To be continued....
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by joeba
Some undercarriage photos from the seller















Is this an aftermarket trailing arm? I'm used to seeing boxed in steel.
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