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I am trying to replace the rear brake lines on my 69. They are rusted into the brass distribution block. What is the best way to get them separated without doing damage? Thanks
I unbolted the block from the frame so I could hold it with a wrench...then I clamped a set of vice-grip pliers very tightly on the brake line fitting (it flattened)....then I was abled to "break" each line a-loose, flush out the block, and install new lines.
If you are not re-using the line I would just cut the line off flush to the nut and put a socket on it.A little heat from a Mapp gas torch doesn't hurt either.
If you are not re-using the line I would just cut the line off flush to the nut and put a socket on it.A little heat from a Mapp gas torch doesn't hurt either.
Yep, a six point socket will usually get them off unless you really boogered them up with a wrench already. Then it would be vise-grip time.
The only tool I've ever found to successfully remove a 'frozen' brake line fitting is a Snap-On 'crowfoot' adapter for tubing fittings. It is much sturdier than a normal tubing wrench and has a 6-flat, slotted box to fit over the fitting. Shooting PB Blaster on it for a day or two would be beneficial prior to cranking on the fitting with the Snap-On tool.
If you are not re-using the line I would just cut the line off flush to the nut and put a socket on it.A little heat from a Mapp gas torch doesn't hurt either.
This works well as long as you use a six point socket. I've never needed heat.
I am trying to replace the rear brake lines on my 69. They are rusted into the brass distribution block. What is the best way to get them separated without doing damage? Thanks
My opinion. Destroy them. My recommendation is to replace the brake lines with all stainless steel lines and stainless steel fittings. Buy new replacement brass blocks. The brake lines can be replaced without lifting the body. At first glance, it looks impossible...it's not. If you've done it a few times, removing and reinstalling brakes lines goes relatively quickly. For my 68 and 70, not only replacing the brake lines with all new, I installed an all new MC and brake calipers (SSBC aluminum calipers). With an all new dry brake system, I used silicon brake fluid.
My opinion. Destroy them. My recommendation is to replace the brake lines with all stainless steel lines and stainless steel fittings. Buy new replacement brass blocks. The brake lines can be replaced without lifting the body. At first glance, it looks impossible...it's not. If you've done it a few times, removing and reinstalling brakes lines goes relatively quickly. For my 68 and 70, not only replacing the brake lines with all new, I installed an all new MC and brake calipers (SSBC aluminum calipers). With an all new dry brake system, I used silicon brake fluid.
This is the way to go to insure your very old valueable car stops. I replaced mine and would also recommend rebuilding the calipers. It was like ten bucks per wheel in parts and an hour for all of them. I could not believe how much gook came out of the caliper piston area. Hardest part was bleeding the whole system again, but you have to do that anyway. Good luck!
My opinion. Destroy them. My recommendation is to replace the brake lines with all stainless steel lines and stainless steel fittings. Buy new replacement brass blocks. The brake lines can be replaced without lifting the body. At first glance, it looks impossible...it's not. If you've done it a few times, removing and reinstalling brakes lines goes relatively quickly. For my 68 and 70, not only replacing the brake lines with all new, I installed an all new MC and brake calipers (SSBC aluminum calipers). With an all new dry brake system, I used silicon brake fluid.