Bubba WTF any thoughts??
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 226
From: Cape Neddick Maine
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Bubba WTF any thoughts??
so here we go trying to unf%$k another bubba move. My 76 has a multi lift rear spring that's 2.25 wide that's correct right??
yeah that's what I thought. My bolts are 5/8 head or 7/16 bolts indicating that the spring should be 2.5 wide. That's probably why my spring has room to wiggle a bit fore and aft.
The rear sits high and handles like greased snot on a hot day to bring the rear back down to Earth and get it to handle better what would be the best way to go for a rear spring?
yeah that's what I thought. My bolts are 5/8 head or 7/16 bolts indicating that the spring should be 2.5 wide. That's probably why my spring has room to wiggle a bit fore and aft.
The rear sits high and handles like greased snot on a hot day to bring the rear back down to Earth and get it to handle better what would be the best way to go for a rear spring?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Replace it with a monoleaf composite spring. Just get one with the load rating that will be best for the way you will be using the car. You might also want to put a decent set of shocks on at the same time, if they have some years on them.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 40
C3 on the whole were treated like little red headed step children.
Passed from one owner to next ...each had a dream to own a corvette and no money to maintain it right.....they were neglected .
So most went to hell ....needing everything today
If your going to keep it and enjoy the true handling and driving fun it can provide , you ll need to spend to fix what should have been done faithfully years ago.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 226
From: Cape Neddick Maine
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
thanks for the replies so far. I have my second thoughts on the mono spring....mainly losing the ballast weight from the back end.
If I did go with the Mono spring I have KYB shocks that I hope to use but I have heard they will not control the bounce. From what I have read 360# is what I would want for a spring?
my expectations are a decent ride, stock or just a little lower ride height. this is just a driver so I can live with it being a little on the stiff side
If I did go with the Mono spring I have KYB shocks that I hope to use but I have heard they will not control the bounce. From what I have read 360# is what I would want for a spring?
my expectations are a decent ride, stock or just a little lower ride height. this is just a driver so I can live with it being a little on the stiff side
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 86
From: Rotonda FL
thanks for the replies so far. I have my second thoughts on the mono spring....mainly losing the ballast weight from the back end.
If I did go with the Mono spring I have KYB shocks that I hope to use but I have heard they will not control the bounce. From what I have read 360# is what I would want for a spring?
my expectations are a decent ride, stock or just a little lower ride height. this is just a driver so I can live with it being a little on the stiff side
If I did go with the Mono spring I have KYB shocks that I hope to use but I have heard they will not control the bounce. From what I have read 360# is what I would want for a spring?
my expectations are a decent ride, stock or just a little lower ride height. this is just a driver so I can live with it being a little on the stiff side
2) If you go with a mono/fiberglass rear spring, KYB shocks (white, high pressure) WILL NOT make you happy. Been there, done that. I am currently using KYB GR2 shocks specially valved for mono springs. They work very well, but I don't want to start another 'which shock is best' flaming long thread.
3) Talk with VB&P about the spring they recommend - it is not always the stiff 360#. They recommend (usually) a 330# for small blocks not used on the track.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 226
From: Cape Neddick Maine
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
1) If your rear end is sitting too high and you want to lower it, most will use longer (8 to 10 inch) between the trailing arm and the ends of the spring.
2) If you go with a mono/fiberglass rear spring, KYB shocks (white, high pressure) WILL NOT make you happy. Been there, done that. I am currently using KYB GR2 shocks specially valved for mono springs. They work very well, but I don't want to start another 'which shock is best' flaming long thread.
3) Talk with VB&P about the spring they recommend - it is not always the stiff 360#. They recommend (usually) a 330# for small blocks not used on the track.
2) If you go with a mono/fiberglass rear spring, KYB shocks (white, high pressure) WILL NOT make you happy. Been there, done that. I am currently using KYB GR2 shocks specially valved for mono springs. They work very well, but I don't want to start another 'which shock is best' flaming long thread.
3) Talk with VB&P about the spring they recommend - it is not always the stiff 360#. They recommend (usually) a 330# for small blocks not used on the track.
Kyb white shocks are what I have good to know on that tip. I really don't have the extra money right now for the Bilstein shocks that everyone recommends.
it is a small block car just street driven with a stock 350.My 24 year old daughter drives it more than I do.
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Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,756
Likes: 2,589
something is not correct about that spring or rear cover, the bolts should not be touching the tires. You started off saying you have four 7/16 bolts for the spring plate, they should be 9/16.
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1977.html
The 7/16 bolt is for later years, sounds like you have a 76 spring and a cover from 78/79
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1978-1979.html
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1977.html
The 7/16 bolt is for later years, sounds like you have a 76 spring and a cover from 78/79
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1978-1979.html
Last edited by MelWff; Jul 17, 2014 at 04:19 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If you want a good ride but with decent control in turns, I think you might be better off with a lower # spring (330#, perhaps) and stiffer gas shocks (ie, Bilstein Sports) in the rear. A 360# spring may be a bit harsh and may cause the rear of the car to sit high (depends on the manufacturer and how they designed the spring).
Do some research on spring rate vs. ride height of various brand springs so that you know what you will end up with after the install.
Do some research on spring rate vs. ride height of various brand springs so that you know what you will end up with after the install.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Not the best in cornering,
My '73 SBC w/auto has a single composite leaf. The number I'm not sure of, as it came on the car when I bought it. Big block of wood in there to make it fit where the multi-layered stock leaf was sandwiched.
The shocks I can't ID either; they're yellow with bellows/boot on the bottom where they join up with the arm.
High speed cornering, like Interstate ramps with a 50 MPH limit; acts like it's rear end wants to intermittently drift outside the turn. And if I try to compensate, it can aggravate it! Best thing I've found is just let it go; it hasn't spun out (yet), as it does correct itself with patience. But should it really do it in the first place?
Steve
The shocks I can't ID either; they're yellow with bellows/boot on the bottom where they join up with the arm.
High speed cornering, like Interstate ramps with a 50 MPH limit; acts like it's rear end wants to intermittently drift outside the turn. And if I try to compensate, it can aggravate it! Best thing I've found is just let it go; it hasn't spun out (yet), as it does correct itself with patience. But should it really do it in the first place?
Steve
Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 582
Likes: 9
My '73 SBC w/auto has a single composite leaf. The number I'm not sure of, as it came on the car when I bought it. Big block of wood in there to make it fit where the multi-layered stock leaf was sandwiched.
The shocks I can't ID either; they're yellow with bellows/boot on the bottom where they join up with the arm.
High speed cornering, like Interstate ramps with a 50 MPH limit; acts like it's rear end wants to intermittently drift outside the turn. And if I try to compensate, it can aggravate it! Best thing I've found is just let it go; it hasn't spun out (yet), as it does correct itself with patience. But should it really do it in the first place?
Steve
The shocks I can't ID either; they're yellow with bellows/boot on the bottom where they join up with the arm.
High speed cornering, like Interstate ramps with a 50 MPH limit; acts like it's rear end wants to intermittently drift outside the turn. And if I try to compensate, it can aggravate it! Best thing I've found is just let it go; it hasn't spun out (yet), as it does correct itself with patience. But should it really do it in the first place?
Steve
Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 582
Likes: 9
so here we go trying to unf%$k another bubba move. My 76 has a multi lift rear spring that's 2.25 wide that's correct right??
yeah that's what I thought. My bolts are 5/8 head or 7/16 bolts indicating that the spring should be 2.5 wide. That's probably why my spring has room to wiggle a bit fore and aft.
The rear sits high and handles like greased snot on a hot day to bring the rear back down to Earth and get it to handle better what would be the best way to go for a rear spring?
yeah that's what I thought. My bolts are 5/8 head or 7/16 bolts indicating that the spring should be 2.5 wide. That's probably why my spring has room to wiggle a bit fore and aft.
The rear sits high and handles like greased snot on a hot day to bring the rear back down to Earth and get it to handle better what would be the best way to go for a rear spring?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
I swapped out these bushings.
Old ones were very worn.
New brake pads & shoes were also installed by the shop, but not sure if they aligned the rear. I've got some very old tires on the car too that are not helping matters.
Not trying to hijack here: Just mentioning that all these things do matter as well as main components, in rear end performance.
Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 582
Likes: 9
Are you talking rear end toe-in? I know the shop did a front end alignment, and the car does point & drive very nicely on straightaways. The two large rear leaf bushings look like originals, so they are worn.
I swapped out these bushings.
Old ones were very worn.
New brake pads & shoes were also installed by the shop, but not sure if they aligned the rear. I've got some very old tires on the car too that are not helping matters.
Not trying to hijack here: Just mentioning that all these things do matter as well as main components, in rear end performance.
I swapped out these bushings.
Old ones were very worn.
New brake pads & shoes were also installed by the shop, but not sure if they aligned the rear. I've got some very old tires on the car too that are not helping matters.
Not trying to hijack here: Just mentioning that all these things do matter as well as main components, in rear end performance.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,607
Likes: 7,053
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Another remedy would be to slide a bushing that has been cut to the correct length over each 7/16" diameter bolt in order to snug the spring-pack into place.
Of course this fix could be classified as "Bubba"......but certainly easier and much less costly than replacing many mis-matched parts.
Of course this fix could be classified as "Bubba"......but certainly easier and much less costly than replacing many mis-matched parts.