75 speaker replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 180
Likes: 21
From: Chesterfield Mo
75 speaker replacement
Need to replace drivers side speaker. Archives search shows two methods. One, remove top dash pad. Two, loosen driver dash pad by dropping steering column and pull dash pad away far enough to get arm and wrench between upper dash and driver dash pad. Which is easiest/best method? Removing upper dash pad risks cracking old vinyl. Trying to decide best approach. I already have passenger pad out and pass speaker replaced. What to do?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I used the second method. Also, if you replace the driver's side speaker, you will also want to replace the passenger side speaker. Otherwise, you may get significantly different sound.
The original speakers were 10 ohm units. You really can't find 10 ohm speakers anymore. Most auto audio speakers are 4 ohm. There are some "direct replacement" dash speakers that may be close (but I have no experience with them. If you only want to replace the left speaker, that still might be your best alternative.
The original speakers were 10 ohm units. You really can't find 10 ohm speakers anymore. Most auto audio speakers are 4 ohm. There are some "direct replacement" dash speakers that may be close (but I have no experience with them. If you only want to replace the left speaker, that still might be your best alternative.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 974
Likes: 85
From: Hoopeston, Illinois
I replaced my speaker on a 1975 a few weeks ago. The driver's side is alittle tougher than the passenger's side. I too was like you and I had my concerns about cracking something. So I put the driver's side speaker behind the LH kick panel. I reached over the tach and was able to unhook the factory wire harness. Then I used spade connector and tapped into the factory harness. I ran the supply wire behind the A pillar to the LH kickpanel. Since I used the spade connectors I did not cut any wires. The LH kick panel is where the 1968/9 speakers are from the factory.
Good luck,
George
BTW: You need to post some picture of your beautiful Blue/Red 1975.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-corvette.html
Good luck,
George
BTW: You need to post some picture of your beautiful Blue/Red 1975.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-corvette.html
Last edited by glinares; Aug 2, 2014 at 11:28 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 180
Likes: 21
From: Chesterfield Mo
I replaced my speaker on a 1975 a few weeks ago. The driver's side is alittle tougher than the passenger's side. I too was like you and I had my concerns about cracking something. So I put the driver's side speaker behind the LH kick panel. I reached over the tach and was able to unhook the factory wire harness. Then I used spade connector and tapped into the factory harness. I ran the supply wire behind the A pillar to the LH kickpanel. Since I used the spade connectors I did not cut any wires. The LH kick panel is where the 1968/9 speakers are from the factory.
Good luck,
George
BTW: You need to post some picture of your beautiful Blue/Red 1975.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-corvette.html
Good luck,
George
BTW: You need to post some picture of your beautiful Blue/Red 1975.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-corvette.html
Want to keep car as original as possible so I won't go the kick panel route. Probably will try to remove upper dash pad. Passenger speaker is already replaced. Wish the drivers was as easy.
I'll start a new thread with pictures but don,t want to come off as a show off.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 117
Likes: 1
When I replaced the speakers on my 77 I went back with 4 rockford fosgate speakers purchased from eBay for around $50 for the set. 2 in the dash AND 2 in the kick panels.after I removed the center gauge cluster I loosened the driver dash panel and scooted it forward. A 1/2" was about as far as it would go, which was just enough to get a ratchet with a 3/8 drive 12" extension taped to the handle in there to loosen the nut closest to the driver door. It was not a quick or overly sime process but I made it work because I didn't know how else to full remove the panel. Something else to consider is either using shielded cable if you run over the top ofthe tach or run the cable the other direction to keep as much space as possible between it and the wires. I had to go back and rerun my wires because the ignition interference was so bad the music could not even be heard over 1200-1300 rpm. You may have a better idea/experience I hope this helps
