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Differential Cover Spring Bolt Holes

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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 09:58 AM
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Default Differential Cover Spring Bolt Holes

One of the spring bolt holes in my diff cover goes through. It was allowing oil to slowly leak out. Do I need a new cover? Was this a hack back in the day to drain the case? Or is it supposed to be like this? Thanks, Rick
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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Somebody installed too long a bolt and punched a hole that's not supposed to be there.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 69L46vert
One of the spring bolt holes in my diff cover goes through. It was allowing oil to slowly leak out. Do I need a new cover? Was this a hack back in the day to drain the case? Or is it supposed to be like this? Thanks, Rick
I've seen several where they have rusted in the corners and flaked off in layers, also a long bolt will puncture the casing.

Either seal it (thread sealer such as permatex hi-temp) while changing the oil (good a chance as any) or do the full job and switch to Muskegon HD cover and never worry about it again
M
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Somebody installed too long a bolt and punched a hole that's not supposed to be there.
Thanks Mike, It has a 7 leaf and I don't know if it's stock or not. Can you or anybody tell by this pic if this is a stock spring? Thanks, Rick
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 10:28 AM
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Thanks Mooser! It's out of the car right now while I rebuild the trailing arms (and everything else)

Last edited by 69L46vert; Aug 23, 2014 at 10:31 AM.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 69L46vert
Thanks Mike, It has a 7 leaf and I don't know if it's stock or not. Can you or anybody tell by this pic if this is a stock spring? Thanks, Rick
Not a stock spring. Never seen one quite like that actually.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Mooser
I've seen several where they have rusted in the corners and flaked off in layers, also a long bolt will puncture the casing.

Either seal it (thread sealer such as permatex hi-temp) while changing the oil (good a chance as any) or do the full job and switch to Muskegon HD cover and never worry about it again
M
Rookie question: Should he wait until the full weight of the car is on the rear spring before torqueing the bolts on a new Muskegon cover?
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Rookie question: Should he wait until the full weight of the car is on the rear spring before torqueing the bolts on a new Muskegon cover?
Not necessary, or desired. Torque it down before putting weight on it.

FWIW, have a NOS Muskegon cover I won't be using (have opted to do the batwing/iron hoghead conversion).
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Not necessary, or desired. Torque it down before putting weight on it.

FWIW, have a NOS Muskegon cover I won't be using (have opted to do the batwing/iron hoghead conversion).
Thought the proper way was to have the weight of the car on the spring when final torque is applied.
Broke my original cover by not applying weight of the car.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RDCRIS
Thought the proper way was to have the weight of the car on the spring when final torque is applied.
That's correct.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Not necessary, or desired. Torque it down before putting weight on it.

FWIW, have a NOS Muskegon cover I won't be using (have opted to do the batwing/iron hoghead conversion).


The bolts holding the spring to the rear can be torqued without the suspension loaded (As per the AIM)

The bolts that use the rubber bushings to twist on (ie control arms, trailing arms etc) all should be torqued in the loaded position since they twist up and down from that position. The spring doesn't do this.

That said, I torqued the front mount and re-checked the torque once it was lowered.

M
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