Got a problem with the left side lower convertible top mount bracket...
When I purchased the Corvette several years ago, it had the hard top in place, but the soft convertible top/frame had been removed. The soft top frame was included in the sale, but needed to be completely redone. Anyway, while cleaning the inside of the body, I got to looking at where the lower frame mounts to the the pillars behind the doors. Although there were some bolts in place, the bolt holes on the driver side were completely stripped out. Looking closer, there is a bracket that is mounted to the inside of the channel that will move up and down for adjustment, but seems to be held in place by a small bracket welded to the inside of the channel. There appears to be no easy way to remove this bracket for repair or replacement without major surgery to the channel and/or fiberglass.

I am wondering if anyone has had this issue before and what you might have done to fix the stripped out holes. These two holes are so wollered out that the next bolt size would be a 1/2" bolt. I thought of maybe widening the slotted area so that it would accomodate the 1/2" bolt and then drilling and retapping the two bolt holes. It appears the bracket that has the threaded/stripped out holes is not removable, so I am out of ideas on any better way to fix it.

Below are some photos that should help make sense as to the issue I am trying to describe. Any thoughts or ideas on how to resolve would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

It would be tricky, but I think I'd drill out the holes and put helicoils in. Not as well known are Time-serts. http://www.timesert.com
The Time-serts is they are solid pieces, not coils, so they may be stronger.
You might have to enlarge the holes in the sheet metal in front of the piece you're working on.
That's what I'd try - good luck.

Pete

 

The bracket is removable. Had the same problem, exactly. You can bend the metal tabs out of the way {very carefully, patiently} to access removal of the stripped out mounting bracket. I then welded nuts on, reinstalled, and very carefully, patiently, very frustrating, rebent the metal tabs over the bracket. Couldn't get all the tabs bent over, but enough. T

 

14 years ago I had to have my soft top frame rebuilt due to severe rust. They replaced the front bow, touched up some rusty spots and realigned the frame. If I remember correctly, one of the brackets you are referencing was in poor condition, so the metal shop that worked on the soft top frame simply made me a new bracket that looked identical to the oem. I don't have the metal tabs that keep these brackets in place.

 

I was watching some of the timesert.com videos that Pete recommended, but the videos all seem to show them installing the inserts until they bottom out in the hole needing to be repaired. Obviously the holes in the brackets in question are open ended and don't have a bottom, so I am not sure it the inserts would work or not.

Terry - Bending those tabs/inner bracket out of the way sounds like it was labor intensive, but I may give that a shot! I guess worst case scenario, I could just do what Frankenvette did; pull the old bracket out, make a new one, and put it back in without the tabs to hold it in place. During reinstallation of the soft top, I would just have to be carefull to not drop the bracket into the bottom of the channel. Either way, I have plenty of time to think out what repair method will work best for me. I do however really appreciate all of your additional thoughts and comments. Thanks guys!

 

I had this problem with some of my C3's . I wrote a solution on one of my past threads. Go to my past threads by bj1k and it is explained on page 5.

 

I just took a piece of 1/8 plate and welded nuts on the backside. Cut it long enough to hold from the top when putting in the top. Guess I could have put a hook on the top so it would free hang down without holding it but they will never need to be replaced again.

 

Since my car was a t-top car made into a convertible. I had no nut plates. I just used bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts. This worked perfectly. Nut plates are not required. Good luck.