Control Arm
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 992
Likes: 28
From: Sutton MA
A pickle fork will pull the tie rod end off the same way you took the ball joints off. you would first need to remove the cotter pin, then the nut and place the pickle fork between the tie rod and where it connects
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 61
From: Southern NH
i think he's talking about the cross shafts and bushings.
you press them out or hammer them out.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...%20rebuild.pdf
you press them out or hammer them out.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...%20rebuild.pdf
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Worked great, no hammering needed, no damaged boots or threads.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,334
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I don't like hammering (or using the air-chisel) on the control arm to remove the bushings so this is the method I use.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g-removal.html
M
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g-removal.html
M
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
I've done the hole saw and air chisel method. Definitely use the air chisel to hammer them out if you have one.
Btw, I hope you know you'll need a press to reinstall and a jig to prevent the A arm from bending.
Btw, I hope you know you'll need a press to reinstall and a jig to prevent the A arm from bending.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: asheville nc
take a chisel and hammer and crush the metal part of the bushing...drive the metal part inward (colapse it)...then knock it out very easy with your punch and hammer.
I am pretty sure I just hit the tie rod end with a fair sized hammer and the tie rod will break loose just like the spindle nuts do when you hit them with a large hammer.
I am pretty sure I just hit the tie rod end with a fair sized hammer and the tie rod will break loose just like the spindle nuts do when you hit them with a large hammer.
Last edited by 68L79; Sep 17, 2014 at 03:28 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: Castle Rock CO
I am getting ready to rebuild the front suspension this winter and my Rear Suspension Next Winter on my 1977 Corvette and have done some research on this.
There are a few methods for removing the control bushings, Tie Rod Ends and Breaking the Ball Joints Free and some tools are needed to make the job easier. If you can borrow them like I can great otherwise if you have a decent budget you can purchase them. For a one time use you do not need expensive tools just ones that will work. Spending a few extra bucks is going to save you time.
When you break the ball joints and Tie Rod Ends Free you are going to need new Grease Covers. The Kit I bought covers almost the entire suspension and transmission mount with Poly Urethane bushings and grease covers.
I just bought a full Front and Rear Poly bushing Kit and Moog Front Springs made in the USA for my 1977 Corvette from a non sponsored site and will share it with you through a PM.... For $205 bucks on the Full Bushing Kit which is $50 to $70 bucks less then all the sponsors. I saved a huge chunk of change for all the items I purchased.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot.../steering.html
There are a few methods for removing the control bushings, Tie Rod Ends and Breaking the Ball Joints Free and some tools are needed to make the job easier. If you can borrow them like I can great otherwise if you have a decent budget you can purchase them. For a one time use you do not need expensive tools just ones that will work. Spending a few extra bucks is going to save you time.
When you break the ball joints and Tie Rod Ends Free you are going to need new Grease Covers. The Kit I bought covers almost the entire suspension and transmission mount with Poly Urethane bushings and grease covers.
I just bought a full Front and Rear Poly bushing Kit and Moog Front Springs made in the USA for my 1977 Corvette from a non sponsored site and will share it with you through a PM.... For $205 bucks on the Full Bushing Kit which is $50 to $70 bucks less then all the sponsors. I saved a huge chunk of change for all the items I purchased.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot.../steering.html
Last edited by MakoJoe; Sep 18, 2014 at 09:44 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: asheville nc
I am getting ready to rebuild the front suspension this winter and my Rear Suspension Next Winter on my 1977 Corvette and have done some research on this.
There are a few methods for removing the control bushings, Tie Rod Ends and Breaking the Ball Joints Free and some tools are needed to make the job easier. If you can borrow them like I can great otherwise if you have a decent budget you can purchase them. For a one time use you do not need expensive tools just ones that will work. Spending a few extra bucks is going to save you time.
When you break the ball joints and Tie Rod Ends Free you are going to need new Grease Covers. The Kit I bought covers almost the entire suspension and transmission mount with Poly Urethane bushings and grease covers.
I just bought a full Front and Rear Poly bushing Kit and Moog Front Springs made in the USA for my 1977 Corvette from a non sponsored site and will share it with you through a PM.... For $205 bucks on the Full Bushing Kit which is $50 to $70 bucks less then all the sponsors. I saved a huge chunk of change for all the items I purchased.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot.../steering.html
Amazon.com: Neiko Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool Repair for Ford, GM & Chrysler (OTC-7068): Industrial & Scientific
There are a few methods for removing the control bushings, Tie Rod Ends and Breaking the Ball Joints Free and some tools are needed to make the job easier. If you can borrow them like I can great otherwise if you have a decent budget you can purchase them. For a one time use you do not need expensive tools just ones that will work. Spending a few extra bucks is going to save you time.
When you break the ball joints and Tie Rod Ends Free you are going to need new Grease Covers. The Kit I bought covers almost the entire suspension and transmission mount with Poly Urethane bushings and grease covers.
I just bought a full Front and Rear Poly bushing Kit and Moog Front Springs made in the USA for my 1977 Corvette from a non sponsored site and will share it with you through a PM.... For $205 bucks on the Full Bushing Kit which is $50 to $70 bucks less then all the sponsors. I saved a huge chunk of change for all the items I purchased.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot.../steering.html
Amazon.com: Neiko Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool Repair for Ford, GM & Chrysler (OTC-7068): Industrial & Scientific
For less than $100...you can put all new Moog bushings in the front end...and they are 100 times better than any after market hard bushing.
Good luck fella...Me...I would not put poly in my vette if the poly folks sent me the bushings for free and paid me to put them in.
Last edited by 68L79; Sep 18, 2014 at 11:35 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: Castle Rock CO
I have poly bushings in my 49 chevy with MII front end....I would pay someone $$$ to tell me what rubber bushing would fit it....poly is junk!!! Harsh ride ( and corvettes don't need any more harsh) is an understatement with poly bushings and you have to remove them every 6 mo to a year and re-silicone them....my 68 vette still has the original rubber bushings everywhere but one upper A arm. I have already taken the MII poly bushings out 2 times already to re-do the silicone and I do not have 1500 miles on this car. They do not tell you you feel every vibration in the steering wheel with poly...I can go on and on....why do you need new ball joint parts after you remove an A arm?
Good luck fella...Me...I would not put poly in my vette if the poly folks sent me the bushings for free and paid me to put them in.
Good luck fella...Me...I would not put poly in my vette if the poly folks sent me the bushings for free and paid me to put them in.
They are stiffer than rubber and need lots of the supplied lubrication which is a silicone grease during installation.
On the down side you will feel the road more and have a stiffer suspension.
Last edited by MakoJoe; Sep 18, 2014 at 11:49 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
I have read and heard many different reviews on Poly Bushings before I chose to purchase them and most of the ones that failed or made noise are from improper installation of the bushings and not properly lubed. It is like anything else if you do not properly install the part it will provide bad results. They require lots of lube during installation and if they are not lubed up properly they will start to squeak sooner than later. The Silicone Grease will not dry out as fast as conventional grease does so in a few years it may get a little squeaky if not properly lubed in the installation after they wear in like any other part they will become more flexable. The grease that was supplied with the kit will be all used up on the bushings.
They are stiffer than rubber and need lots of the supplied lubrication which is a silicone grease during installation.
On the down side you will feel the road more and have a stiffer suspension.
They are stiffer than rubber and need lots of the supplied lubrication which is a silicone grease during installation.
On the down side you will feel the road more and have a stiffer suspension.
I've been using Polyurethane bushings off and on, since they first became available, in the late 1970s. Proper and plentiful lubricant, especially during assembly, is a must. One set in particular, I installed on a 1993 Chevy Caprice LTZ that was my wife's DD. We owned the car for 3-4 years after I installed these bushings, and they were still quiet at that time.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: asheville nc
I suppose if one likes to feel more vibrations in the steering wheel and a rougher ride and taking the front end apart every few years....poly is the way to go.
Like my ol 87 year old chevy corvette specialist mechanic trys to teach me....the engineers at chevy got it right more times than they didn't considering costs restraints. He has fused at me over this poly bushing Mustang II front end...said you should have gm clipped it like you did your truck and 51 ford...both drove like a new car...smooth and a pure pleasure to drive...10 years on the truck and 30,000 miles and 8 years on the 51 ford before selling( not once did I take the front end apart to re-silicone the bushings). I was lucky...both cars never saw the inside of an alignment shop after I placed the front clips in and the ford clip never had an original bushing replaced.
When you take the front end A arms loose to find out what is binding as you are not used to rough rough rough and you discover there is no binding....that its just the nature of poly bushings combined with MII...that does not make me happy...but they do corner a little better but at a very disappointing cost in comfort.
Like my ol 87 year old chevy corvette specialist mechanic trys to teach me....the engineers at chevy got it right more times than they didn't considering costs restraints. He has fused at me over this poly bushing Mustang II front end...said you should have gm clipped it like you did your truck and 51 ford...both drove like a new car...smooth and a pure pleasure to drive...10 years on the truck and 30,000 miles and 8 years on the 51 ford before selling( not once did I take the front end apart to re-silicone the bushings). I was lucky...both cars never saw the inside of an alignment shop after I placed the front clips in and the ford clip never had an original bushing replaced.
When you take the front end A arms loose to find out what is binding as you are not used to rough rough rough and you discover there is no binding....that its just the nature of poly bushings combined with MII...that does not make me happy...but they do corner a little better but at a very disappointing cost in comfort.
Last edited by 68L79; Sep 19, 2014 at 11:33 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: Castle Rock CO
The kit I purchased is impregnated with Graphite to reduce the squeaking and constant need to remove the parts and re-grease them over the years. Once they breaking and soften a bit they should not squeak but will remain stiff and out last the rubber bushings. Rubber lasts about 20 years and my rubber bushings are 37 years old and have one that has completely failed on the passenger side upper control arm.
It was a hard choice and I read lots of reviews on Pros and Cons before I purchased this kit from Energy Suspension. I intend to drive my 1977 Corvette into my 70s and want the suspension I will rebuild to outlast me
It was a hard choice and I read lots of reviews on Pros and Cons before I purchased this kit from Energy Suspension. I intend to drive my 1977 Corvette into my 70s and want the suspension I will rebuild to outlast me
Last edited by MakoJoe; Sep 20, 2014 at 12:58 AM.