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'70 Coupe Restification

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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 08:52 PM
  #21  
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From: YANKEES UNIVERSE 70 454-LS5 500 ft-lbs Torque
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Nice looking that you started with.Love the wheels you put on it.
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 09:29 PM
  #22  
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Default Great Project

I am also doing a restomod, I too am struggling with flare or not to flare.
For those who have done it.
Pros
Cons?
We need feedback
Also, 17" or 18" wheels?
I have 275/40R17 tires but the wheels you have don't come in 17X9.5" wheels but come in 18X9.5" wheels.
Are 17" tires going away? Or not really?
I plan on burning some rubber with this beast and I don't want to worry too much about having fun since tires are expensive.
Thanks
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 09:33 PM
  #23  
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Default Custom image

http://customimagecorvettes.com/prod...ry-wheel-edge/
I am digging on these flares
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 09:42 PM
  #24  
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Default Michelle

Steve,
I would go for a Michelle look like in my link.
Just a thought.
Charlie
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 06:30 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jr9170
Nice looking that you started with.Love the wheels you put on it.
Thanks, they Boss 338's 18x9.5 rear and 18x8 on the front. As I mentioned though, they belong to my Cutlass. Since I'm putting polished side pipes on the car I thought I'd go with a set of 18" polished wheels to match.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 06:36 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 71VETTEWI
I am also doing a restomod, I too am struggling with flare or not to flare.
For those who have done it.
Pros
Cons?
We need feedback
Also, 17" or 18" wheels?
I have 275/40R17 tires but the wheels you have don't come in 17X9.5" wheels but come in 18X9.5" wheels.
Are 17" tires going away? Or not really?
I plan on burning some rubber with this beast and I don't want to worry too much about having fun since tires are expensive.
Thanks
I was looking at these flares:
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette.../fender-flares
I was thinking they might not require as much body work.

Not nearly as many wheel choices for a car with 4" rear flares. You'll need at least an 11" wide wheel. American Racing will do a custom order for their 18" Torque Thrust II wheels but you're going to pay $$$. I figure flares and wheels to fit the flares will cost an extra $3000 beyond not adding flares and using off the shelf wheels.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 07:29 PM
  #27  
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Default Sweet Ride

http://findyourclassiccar.com/2011/1...-carousel-1203

Looks like it might have the Mamo style flares you were looking at.
You are right, those 11" wide wheels are $
I thought I could get by with 9.5" wheels but may not look right.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 71VETTEWI
http://findyourclassiccar.com/2011/1...-carousel-1203

Looks like it might have the Mamo style flares you were looking at.
You are right, those 11" wide wheels are $
I thought I could get by with 9.5" wheels but may not look right.
The blue Vette is a nice looking car, no denying the flares look great when done right.

I don't think a 9.5" wheel would work with a 4" flare. You could use a 10" wheel with 4" or 4.5" of backspacing with a 2" flare. One thing that concerns me about using an 11" wheel with 4" of backspacing (4" fender flares) is the load on the rear spindle bearings. Since the wheel is not centered over the spindle and bearings does it put a high load on the bearings and would they fail sooner? It's not like there is a long solid axle with bearings on each end to carry the load, it's all maintained within the trailing arm.

As much as I like the classic L88 road racer look, I'm leaning towards leaving the body as it is and use a 9.5" or 10" rear wheel with 5" or 5.5" of backspacing along with offset trailing arms to tuck the wheels under the car with stock fenders.
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 01:20 AM
  #29  
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From: YANKEES UNIVERSE 70 454-LS5 500 ft-lbs Torque
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That blue 69 is badazz...
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 01:51 PM
  #30  
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Default My car

I fit 17X9.5 on stock fenders.
I figured if I changed the offset I could go 4" flares
I have a small spacer in the back and a 1" spacer in the front.
I have an 84 Z51 front and rear suspension so the width is different
On your bearing question it is a valid concern. But take into concern that if you can center the wheel mounting you are putting the least amount of stress on your bearings. So if can get close to center on your mount the bearing doesn't care how wide your tire is.
Food for thought.
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 02:00 PM
  #31  
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Default What it will look like

If I don't flare. I put the L88 hood on and will paint blue.
Questions questions......
I don't think the 2" flares give it enough pop
I would also use the flares to make it appear lower by closing the gap in the wheel wells a bit.
Thoughts?
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 02:08 PM
  #32  
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Default Dream car

I guess if I could afford forge line wheels I would build a Danny Popp tribute car. This car is the bomb....
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 02:13 PM
  #33  
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Default Dream car

Danny Popp's car is the bomb. If I could bring myself to spend the money for Forgeline wheels. I would build a tribute car.
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 02:59 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 71VETTEWI
I fit 17X9.5 on stock fenders.
I figured if I changed the offset I could go 4" flares
I have a small spacer in the back and a 1" spacer in the front.
I have an 84 Z51 front and rear suspension so the width is different
On your bearing question it is a valid concern. But take into concern that if you can center the wheel mounting you are putting the least amount of stress on your bearings. So if can get close to center on your mount the bearing doesn't care how wide your tire is.
Food for thought.
Here's how I see it. To me, if using a 9.5" wide wheel with 4" flares, you'd need 1.5" of backspacing to get the outside edge of the wheel in the same position in relation to the outer fender as the factory 15x8 wheel with stock fenders. I think the perfect wheel for 4" flares would be 12" wide with 4.5" of back spacing, or 11" wide with 4" of backspacing and a tall tire sidewall with a lot of section width. If not using an 11" or 12" wide wheel, the wheels and tires get tucked back too far into the wheel opening.


Last edited by SteveCurry; Oct 4, 2014 at 03:02 PM.
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 10:12 PM
  #35  
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Default Nice illustration

Originally Posted by SteveCurry
Here's how I see it. To me, if using a 9.5" wide wheel with 4" flares, you'd need 1.5" of backspacing to get the outside edge of the wheel in the same position in relation to the outer fender as the factory 15x8 wheel with stock fenders. I think the perfect wheel for 4" flares would be 12" wide with 4.5" of back spacing, or 11" wide with 4" of backspacing and a tall tire sidewall with a lot of section width. If not using an 11" or 12" wide wheel, the wheels and tires get tucked back too far into the wheel opening.

Thanks for working out the measurements.
Charlie
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 11:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 71VETTEWI
Thanks for working out the measurements.
Charlie
I looked at the Forgeline wheel site. You can get just about whatever you want but they sure don't give them away! WOW!
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 01:23 AM
  #37  
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From: YANKEES UNIVERSE 70 454-LS5 500 ft-lbs Torque
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Popps LT-1 is one badazz ride.
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 07:24 PM
  #38  
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Ran into some problems this past weekend. The left side trailing arm pocket is completely rusted out. I was very surprised and then angry when I uncovered this mess, the right side is in pretty good shape. The area was packed with dirt and crud, the more I dug at it with a chisel and screw driver the worse it got. Not sure what to do now.



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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 09:58 PM
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Default Ouch

Originally Posted by SteveCurry
Ran into some problems this past weekend. The left side trailing arm pocket is completely rusted out. I was very surprised and then angry when I uncovered this mess, the right side is in pretty good shape. The area was packed with dirt and crud, the more I dug at it with a chisel and screw driver the worse it got. Not sure what to do now.



My car frame was nasty rust when I got it. I could get my fist through the holes in places. I was on a budget so I welded in a partial rear section. Then a few years later I scored a complete 79 frame. I had to graft on the rear bumper section otherwise it was very close.
What are your plans to fix it?
If it's in the budget, my vote is SRII frame. Those are very strong and you can bolt on a ton of options.
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 09:59 PM
  #40  
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Default

Originally Posted by SteveCurry
Ran into some problems this past weekend. The left side trailing arm pocket is completely rusted out. I was very surprised and then angry when I uncovered this mess, the right side is in pretty good shape. The area was packed with dirt and crud, the more I dug at it with a chisel and screw driver the worse it got. Not sure what to do now.




Do this first..........................RELAXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXX!

(Removing that trailing arm was the hardest part)

Then find a thread or video on how to repair/replace the rusted section.

The more you learn........the smaller the problem gets!
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