Body Drop Checklist?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 505
Likes: 25
From: Buxton Maine
Body Drop Checklist?
When I removed the body I had a checklist list to go by. I plan to set the body on the frame today and got to wondering if there exists a checklist of items that need to be in place before the body is lowered to the frame. Thanks for any help, Rick
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,335
Likes: 4,451
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 69,
There are many variations in how complete the chassis and under body are when the body is dropped in place. So the list can be different for each restorer.
I'll start:
Foil insulation in transmission tunnel.
Foam collar on top of bell housing.
Rubber collar and drain tube on gas tank.
Antenna ground plate and ground strap.
Anything to do with the #2 & #3 body mounts and shims.
I'd think there are more.
There's really not very much you can't get to even after the body is in place
Regards,
Alan
There are many variations in how complete the chassis and under body are when the body is dropped in place. So the list can be different for each restorer.
I'll start:
Foil insulation in transmission tunnel.
Foam collar on top of bell housing.
Rubber collar and drain tube on gas tank.
Antenna ground plate and ground strap.
Anything to do with the #2 & #3 body mounts and shims.
I'd think there are more.
There's really not very much you can't get to even after the body is in place
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Sep 21, 2014 at 10:15 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 505
Likes: 25
From: Buxton Maine
Thanks Alan,
Especially for reminding me about the gas filler drain. I'm still waiting on that part. My old one is cracked and worn out. Sounds like I'll probably have to leave the body unbolted until the gas boot gets here.
As soon as the body is up off the dolly I'll install the tunnel insulation. My buddy is setting up his GoPro camera to hopefully make a time lapse video. We'll see how it goes. Pictures at 11:00 !!
Especially for reminding me about the gas filler drain. I'm still waiting on that part. My old one is cracked and worn out. Sounds like I'll probably have to leave the body unbolted until the gas boot gets here.
As soon as the body is up off the dolly I'll install the tunnel insulation. My buddy is setting up his GoPro camera to hopefully make a time lapse video. We'll see how it goes. Pictures at 11:00 !!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 14
From: Airdrie Alberta
Make sure rear shock bolts installed correctly
Bolt in crossmember bolts installed correctly
Parking brake pulley bolt
otherwise won't be able to remove them once body is on
plus the following list
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...heck-list.html
Bolt in crossmember bolts installed correctly
Parking brake pulley bolt
otherwise won't be able to remove them once body is on
plus the following list
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...heck-list.html
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,335
Likes: 4,451
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi HW,
The list at your link is a good one.
It illustrates that the chassis can be very far along when the body is dropped.
There's also the question of how to protect the chassis and running gear if the body is yet to be painted.
Regards.
Alan
The list at your link is a good one.
It illustrates that the chassis can be very far along when the body is dropped.
There's also the question of how to protect the chassis and running gear if the body is yet to be painted.
Regards.
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Sep 21, 2014 at 12:26 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 802
Likes: 1
Hi 69,
There are many variations in how complete the chassis and under body are when the body is dropped in place. So the list can be different for each restorer.
I'll start:
Foil insulation in transmission tunnel.
Foam collar on top of bell housing.
Rubber collar and drain tube on gas tank.
Antenna ground plate and ground strap.
Anything to do with the #2 & #3 body mounts and shims.
I'd think there are more.
There's really not very much you can't get to even after the body is in place
Regards,
Alan
There are many variations in how complete the chassis and under body are when the body is dropped in place. So the list can be different for each restorer.
I'll start:
Foil insulation in transmission tunnel.
Foam collar on top of bell housing.
Rubber collar and drain tube on gas tank.
Antenna ground plate and ground strap.
Anything to do with the #2 & #3 body mounts and shims.
I'd think there are more.
There's really not very much you can't get to even after the body is in place
Regards,
Alan
Alan,
Is there no way of getting the antenna ground plate and strap on after body drop. I took mine off on prep for painting. Less item to mask. Also the alarm horn must be the same problem since it is in the same location.
Steve L
73 coupe since new
Last edited by stevelischynsky; Sep 21, 2014 at 12:21 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,335
Likes: 4,451
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Steve,
You can reach the ground plate and strap with the body in place but the muffler is in the way a bit.
Access is easier before the drop, but certainly do-able after.
Regards,
Alan
You can reach the ground plate and strap with the body in place but the muffler is in the way a bit.
Access is easier before the drop, but certainly do-able after.
Regards,
Alan
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,448
Likes: 793
From: Redondo Beach, California
Good catch about the rear shock mounting bolts...it's the bolts that mount the upper shock to the frame.
The frame and bird cage has ...it think 9/16 inch holes. At the factory, they used a dowel rod inserted in the frame and projecting upwards a little to exactly place the bird cage on the frame. You can buy 9/16 (?) dowel rods at a hardware store. An interesting factoid....9/16 dowel rods at a hardware store aren't 9/16 ...they as slightly smaller in diameter. Just like a 2X4 isn't 2X4 ,but 1 7/8 X 3 7/8. If you want a real 9/16 dowel rod you have to go to a store that sells supplies to professional maschinists.
The frame and bird cage has ...it think 9/16 inch holes. At the factory, they used a dowel rod inserted in the frame and projecting upwards a little to exactly place the bird cage on the frame. You can buy 9/16 (?) dowel rods at a hardware store. An interesting factoid....9/16 dowel rods at a hardware store aren't 9/16 ...they as slightly smaller in diameter. Just like a 2X4 isn't 2X4 ,but 1 7/8 X 3 7/8. If you want a real 9/16 dowel rod you have to go to a store that sells supplies to professional maschinists.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 802
Likes: 1
Mufflers and all spare tire parts are out. I plan a body drop this week.
Steve L
73 coupe since new
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,335
Likes: 4,451
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 68/70 V,
You comment is well taken…….
but, I'm pretty sure 2 x 4 lumber is reliably 1 1/2" x 3 1/2".
If it's not I've got a lot of strings of dimensions to change on a lot of sets of drawings!
Regards,
Alan
You comment is well taken…….
but, I'm pretty sure 2 x 4 lumber is reliably 1 1/2" x 3 1/2".
If it's not I've got a lot of strings of dimensions to change on a lot of sets of drawings!
Regards,
Alan
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 420
Likes: 4
From: Ft Myers Fl
I just dropped my 75's body back on last week. Couple of things:
Make sure the fuel gauge wire is run through the hole in the left side of the fuel tank cover.
Install the #2 and #3 mounts/lower washer, rubber and bolt. Use these as a guide ... it really helped me drop the body by myself and get it lined up. You can also load the #1 bolts, upper washer and rubber and hold them in place with the nut. Same reason ... nice guide. As I lowered the body, I kept it slightly tilted toward the front and lined up the mounts front to back installing #4 pieces last and just before the body was fully down.
If you have an auto, I recommend making sure all the vacuum and cooling lines are installed.
Make sure you tie up the shift cable, battery cable and parking brake cable out of the way so that they can drop in place correctly after the body is down.
Make sure the fuel gauge wire is run through the hole in the left side of the fuel tank cover.
Install the #2 and #3 mounts/lower washer, rubber and bolt. Use these as a guide ... it really helped me drop the body by myself and get it lined up. You can also load the #1 bolts, upper washer and rubber and hold them in place with the nut. Same reason ... nice guide. As I lowered the body, I kept it slightly tilted toward the front and lined up the mounts front to back installing #4 pieces last and just before the body was fully down.
If you have an auto, I recommend making sure all the vacuum and cooling lines are installed.
Make sure you tie up the shift cable, battery cable and parking brake cable out of the way so that they can drop in place correctly after the body is down.
