When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
did you start by bleeding the master cylinder?
are you starting with the RR caliper, than LR than RF than LF?
are you opening both bleeders on rear calipers?
is the booster pushrod correctly adjusted?
did you start by bleeding the master cylinder?
are you starting with the RR caliper, than LR than RF than LF?
are you opening both bleeders on rear calipers?
is the booster pushrod correctly adjusted?
did you start by bleeding the master cylinder? YES
are you starting with the RR caliper, than LR than RF than LF? YES
are you opening both bleeders on rear calipers? One at a time, should they both be open?
is the booster pushrod correctly adjusted? It was just a rod coming out of the hole, how do you adjust it?
on the rear calipers you start with the right rear outter bleed screw than the right rear inner bleed screw. Then the same on the left rear outter first than the inner. Use a small hammer and tap the caliper to dislodge any air bubbles.
There typically needs to be a measurement done between the rod coming out of the booster and the rear of the piston on the master cylinder. There are adjustable rods if the clearance is incorrect.
You replaced the rubber lines front and back?
new calipers new break lines new booster, when i bleed breaks i have no air but still have no pedal
do you have fluid?
bleed one rear bleeder at a time and try hitting the calipers with a rubber hammer while your helper is pumping to dislodge air, I use a clear hose tight on the bleeders and a plastic bottle with some fluid in it keeping the end of the hose submerged.
Last edited by redvetracr; Oct 9, 2014 at 05:51 PM.
I'd say you still have air. Gravity bleed is the way to go imo.I did a complete brake rebuild ,gravity bled the system and have rock solid/throw you thru the windshield brakes!