Honestly, at this point, I don't really care what GM did, as there's so a lot of misdesigned BS on these cars to begin with, that unless I want to go the NCRS route, it doesn't really matter. If I get a years worth of use out of the $1 pin, I'll be happy with that.

 

That is unless you are at a redlight with the clutch engaged. LOL. I bet my 80 has the same design and you can bet I will be proactively copying this design.

 

In fact, the clevis pin that I used was double the thickness of what was there before and still fit in the original hole of the upper clutch linkage! It ain't going to break anytime soon or later.

Also, I'm running the same clevis pins on the lower part of the Z-bar linkage as well, so I can remove the lower arm, to change the oil filter out and after two years, they're not showing any kind of wear either.

Upper clutch linkage (Pedal to Z-Bar, Z-Bar end). Note the clevis pin. Two seconds to remove, if that.



Front part of lower linkage, with clevis pin installed. Note how the linkage interferes with removing the oil filter, as you have to tilt the oil filter to get it out, as it's directly above the exhaust, spilling oil out all over the exhaust pipe. Pop the pins and the dowel comes right out. (it still might spill a wee bit, but nothing like tilting it! Tip: Cover the exhaust pipe, under the filter, by draping a piece of aluminum foil over it, problem solved, remove and toss foil after filter change).



Rear part of lower Z-bar linkage, pop the clevis pin and out it comes. It's not going anywhere, anytime soon. And PS, there's so much slop in the throwout bearing arm, that's designed straight out of GM, it's amazing how it flops around, when there isn't a linkage attached. It ain't precision, it just does, what it does well; gets shoved straight back hard to disengage the pressure plate period. No rocket science here and my clutch pedal feels great!

 

I have only driven my Vette a couple of times since I bought it but the clutch to take a lot of pressure to engage so I am considering converting over to a hydraulic clutch but I have not really decided yet. I am not sure if that is normal or not.

Before I purchased my car it had been stored in a garage for 20 years and it was 10 years since it was last started. All the calipers needed to be replaced, the master cylinder was junk and now I have found it needs the Power steering control valve and slave cylinder rebuilt among other front suspension parts replaced. Sorry don't mean or want to hijack your thread.

 

dang regis, the way I saw you workin that gearbox on the cruise to Solvang, I would want that pin made outta titanium

 

Not a problem, and I don't think your hijacking at all, just expanding on the subject. Ok, I'll say this about the action and feel of the clutch in these cars, you're gonna be using your whole leg to work it, but If you start having to an also put your weight into just to get it to go down, you might have to look at the linkage and also, you should grease the Z-bar, with a grease gun until grease comes out of the ends.

You might also try disconnecting the lower linkage from the throw out bearing arm and see if there's any binding or worn out parts twisting around.

Heck, it could be just from not being used enough. As far as the calipers, power steering and front suspension, that's all been gone through and seems to be the pattern with these cars. Hope this helps.

 

Sassy hates being babied! I swear that car goads you into cranking through the gear box. The needle is ramping up the face of the tach, the engine is saying 'hell yeah!' and you're just a participant. Got to get her back on the drag strip. She's not the fastest thing at the track, just the most fun to drive!