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I would like to find a complete C3 cruise control system for my 1976. I don't think cruise controls were available for the 76 models, but I assume a later year C3 system can be installed on my 76. Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
I would like to find a complete C3 cruise control system for my 1976. I don't think cruise controls were available for the 76 models, but I assume a later year C3 system can be installed on my 76. Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
I recently removed the original working cruise control from my 79 Vette. PM if you are interested in it.
I recently removed the original working cruise control from my 79 Vette. PM if you are interested in it.
I'm interested. Why did you removed it, and was the system working alright prior to its being removed? How much are you asking, and what about shipping?
You can go to the trouble of getting an old GM unit for your C3 and installing it...or you can buy a Rostra aftermarket electronic cruise control for your car. I have that electronic unit in both of my 'classics' and I'm very happy with the performance.
You can go to the trouble of getting an old GM unit for your C3 and installing it...or you can buy a Rostra aftermarket electronic cruise control for your car. I have that electronic unit in both of my 'classics' and I'm very happy with the performance.
Do you have a recommendation on which one to buy? They don't seem to have a specific one for the C3.
I checked with Summit Racing regarding the Rostra control and it seems you will need to make three separate purchases which includes three choices for the turn signal lever for a total cost of approximately $280.
My car didn't come with AC and I love to mod so original means almost zero to me,
I could spend lots of time and money finding stock AC that worked okay in it's day set up to use a coolant we do not have now days,
I would have way more invested in some cantankerous system that would not work as well as a new modern add on system,
In your case CC , both my 81's had it and it worked Okay when it wanted to and that was when it was new, buying an old used set up is a gamble ( no offense to people selling them ) I just bet that the aftermarket ones work better and in the long run are cheaper than trying to use one from a vette.
If the car didn't come with it then trying to keep it original is moot anyway....
You can go to the trouble of getting an old GM unit for your C3 and installing it...or you can buy a Rostra aftermarket electronic cruise control for your car. I have that electronic unit in both of my 'classics' and I'm very happy with the performance.
7T1vette: I really appreciate your response and I believe I will go with the Rostra system, and I think I will go with the replacement turn signal level rather than one of the two options of a slip over lever. I probably will rarely use the cruise control around home, but I'm planning a trip from Texas to CA next spring, and if you have ever traveled from CA to Colorado through Nevada, you know it is a very long stretch of nothing. Again, thanks for your advice.
7T1vette: I really appreciate your response and I believe I will go with the Rostra system, and I think I will go with the replacement turn signal level rather than one of the two options of a slip over lever. I probably will rarely use the cruise control around home, but I'm planning a trip from Texas to CA next spring, and if you have ever traveled from CA to Colorado through Nevada, you know it is a very long stretch of nothing. Again, thanks for your advice.
Heck, going through Texas from San Antonio to El Paso is an extremely long road of nothing on HWY 10
Heck, going through Texas from San Antonio to El Paso is an extremely long road of nothing on HWY 10
You got that right, and I will be traveling from Bastrop on Hwy 10 until just past Las Cruces where I will take Hwy 180 through the mountains on the way to Vegas.
I mounted the main unit to the metal stone shield on the driver's side footwell area. I could easily remove that shield (3 nuts), drill/mount the unit to that shield, and put it easily back in place. That makes it accessible from under the car but still relatively well protected; and the wiring to it needs to come from the driver's front dash area, anyway. Find (or make) a 'feeder' hole in the firewall for the wiring, hook vacuum up from the engine (immediately above where the transducer is mounted), and place magnet on driveshaft and pickup in tunnel. Since you already have a removable turn signal lever, that makes it easier to install the cruise lever in its place. I had to 'create' a way to mount the Rostra lever to the non-cruise capable lever in my '71.
Originally, I installed the little button control pad on the side of the tranny tunnel. That worked OK, but I eventually got around to rigging the cruise-turn signal lever in to operate the system. Looks like it's "factory made", now.
I mounted the main unit to the metal stone shield on the driver's side footwell area. I could easily remove that shield (3 nuts), drill/mount the unit to that shield, and put it easily back in place. That makes it accessible from under the car but still relatively well protected; and the wiring to it needs to come from the driver's front dash area, anyway. Find (or make) a 'feeder' hole in the firewall for the wiring, hook vacuum up from the engine (immediately above where the transducer is mounted), and place magnet on driveshaft and pickup in tunnel. Since you already have a removable turn signal lever, that makes it easier to install the cruise lever in its place. I had to 'create' a way to mount the Rostra lever to the non-cruise capable lever in my '71.
Originally, I installed the little button control pad on the side of the tranny tunnel. That worked OK, but I eventually got around to rigging the cruise-turn signal lever in to operate the system. Looks like it's "factory made", now.
In a previous response, I indicated I would use the replacement turn signal handle, but since my turn signal handle is a screw in type, it appears one of the slip over handles would need to be used.
Also, I'm looking at the Dakota Digital unit. An advantage it has is you can use the magnet system as with the Rostra or go with a cable connection to the transmission. Also, there are excellent installation instructions on their web site. Since I'm not mechanically inclined, I'm having a friend who does this type work look at both systems to determine which unit might be best for my 76. I will let you know which system I go with and why.
I mounted the main unit to the metal stone shield on the driver's side footwell area. I could easily remove that shield (3 nuts), drill/mount the unit to that shield, and put it easily back in place. That makes it accessible from under the car but still relatively well protected; and the wiring to it needs to come from the driver's front dash area, anyway. Find (or make) a 'feeder' hole in the firewall for the wiring, hook vacuum up from the engine (immediately above where the transducer is mounted), and place magnet on driveshaft and pickup in tunnel. Since you already have a removable turn signal lever, that makes it easier to install the cruise lever in its place. I had to 'create' a way to mount the Rostra lever to the non-cruise capable lever in my '71.
Originally, I installed the little button control pad on the side of the tranny tunnel. That worked OK, but I eventually got around to rigging the cruise-turn signal lever in to operate the system. Looks like it's "factory made", now.
Were you able to run the wires to the cruise-turn signal level under the sleeve on the steering column? Also, did you use one of the slip over levers or were you able to use the replacement lever. Since my 76 has a screw in lever, I think I would need to use a slip over type. I went to the Rostra web site this morning and saw were you have the option of using the magnet system or use an extension to the speedometor cable to hookup to the transmission. Why did you go with the magnet system? The Rostra web site has a lot more information than was provided by Summit Racing. I should have went to their web site first. It appears both the Dakota and Rostra systems work well....
I used a length of solid wire to fische through the turn lever hole and along the bottom of the column tube to the outlet just under the dash. Then you could pull some sturdy nylon twine through and tie it to the control wire in whichever direction you want to feed it through. I had to open the turn lever hole a bit to get enough clearance for the combo lever I rigged up. Works fine and no one notices that its not originally from the factory.
You indicated that you originally installed the little button controll pad...was this the dash mount, part #250-3593?...but later used a combo lever you rigged up......does this mean you originally purchased the 3593 and later chose not to purchase one of the optional levers such as the replacement lever, part #250-3020?
My original purchase was the AudioVox unit with the 'dash' control. Rostra later bought AudioVox out and continues to sell that product. I placed the dash control on the driver's side of the trans tunnel, so that I had it within easy reach...but NOT where my knee would hit it accidentely.
Years later, I decided to change the control to the turn signal lever and found one on eBay that I purchased. That lever (and its wiring) hooks up easily in place of the dash unit.
My original purchase was the AudioVox unit with the 'dash' control. Rostra later bought AudioVox out and continues to sell that product. I placed the dash control on the driver's side of the trans tunnel, so that I had it within easy reach...but NOT where my knee would hit it accidentely.
Years later, I decided to change the control to the turn signal lever and found one on eBay that I purchased. That lever (and its wiring) hooks up easily in place of the dash unit.
Thanks for all the information. I really appreciate it. I've have not decided yet which system to go with.....part #4165, magnet system or #4160, trasmission cable, but will wait until after the holidays to purchase the system. However, I'm pretty sure I'm going with the the cut off level, part #3032 if I'm able to run the wires inside the steering column sleeve as you described. Again, thank you!