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I figured i would catalog my build . I have a 700R4 but it wont take the 427SBC power over the long haul so out it goes.
I have been scuffing and repainting under the car , I took the rear suspension out , motor and front suspension. I forgot to take before photos .. I can say it was in great shape already the worst it had was 34 years of some oil and dirt build up and very minor surface rust coloration.. No scale or serious rust or rot.
These pics are after a minor clean up and quick shoot of satin paint. I am just starting the front end Tips and suggestions are WELCOME
Yep I am actually looking at light weight rotors and calipers from AeroSpace components . It should shed 21 lbs per corner ( 84 total) which will erase any weight gains I get from the 4L80e which is 40 lbs heavier then the 700R4
About the 700R4......how did/what method did you use to send voltage to the lock-up solenoid on your car?
I ask because I tried ALL the ways to lock up the converter, starting with the simplest--a manual flip-switch.
I also talked to a Transmission specialist who rebuilt 700R4s for the Sheriff's department (did he have some stories about lock-up converters!)
Thanks for your info.....
A 1980 to 82 have lock up systems already , so in the valve body I put a lock up switch that only allowed lock up in 4th gear So I could tool around in 3 and when i hit highway I could just put it in 4th . Then using same valve body switch i tied a on off to the lock up system so I could use 4th in town and only lock her up at 55 and higher.
A 1980 to 82 have lock up systems already , so in the valve body I put a lock up switch that only allowed lock up in 4th gear So I could tool around in 3 and when i hit highway I could just put it in 4th . Then using same valve body switch i tied a on off to the lock up system so I could use 4th in town and only lock her up at 55 and higher.
Thanks....the reason I asked is......the transmission man told me that the 700R4 needs an electric vacuum switch installed in the circuit with the ON/OFF switch. The reason for that is---the 700R4 "needs to release the lock-up solenoid whenever the pressure inside the pump and valve body reach the limit......the vacuum switch allows this to happen. Without the vacuum switch, 700R4s will overheat damaging internal parts, and even explode internally.
I now have 220,000 miles on my 700R4 in my '34 350 SBC street truck (yes...the clutches are slipping a little LOL). I also have the 3rd gear pressure switch and 4th gear pressure switch installed---3rd gear lock-up allows me to cruise the boulevard/drive in-town while still having good acceleration between traffic lights....imagine cruising in town at low rpm and being able to accelerate aggressively without reaching over to the ON/OFF switch each time...(if the ON/OFF switch isn't used properly with no vacuum switch installed, the transmission will fail)
With the electric vacuum switch/ON/OFF switch installed, I do not have to do any manual "ON/OFF" switching....once the car is in drive (or 3rd) it shifts/downshifts on it's own as though it was plugged into the GM vehicle computer system.
If no planetary gears are damaged inside your transmission, there are rebuild kits available that will handle high H.P. engines.
Back to the original topic .. And a neat fact . 700R4 136.4 pounds .. 4L80E 175.6 pounds..
Here is the 4l80e , Also the T/C which came from PTC . It is unique for this build in that it has 3 mounting pads allowing it to bolt up to my traditional SBC flywheel. 3000 Stall .. Electronics will be the FAST Transmission controller and the photo with the black box, that is Cable X which will take the electronic signal from the tail shaft speedometer and convert it to cable drive allowing me to keep the stock speedo in the dash.