1973 Corvette Value
Team Owner
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 31,495
Likes: 1,313
From: Huntsville AL
Check to see if the engine is original. That makes a difference.
Make sure car runs and drives. Take more pictures.
Good luck with it.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Team Owner
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 31,495
Likes: 1,313
From: Huntsville AL
One thing you want to make sure of is lots of good clear pictures.
Check this ad out, specifically the engine front pad picture. A picture of the engine pad in your car is important. Also take a picture of the trim tag in the driver's door jam area.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-top-int.html
Keep the ad to the point, and use punctuation. A bunch of sentences jammed together is hard to read.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,747
Likes: 713
From: Lafayette Louisiana
Agree, good info and a suggestion for you.
OK, I just looked through Ebay completed listings for 1973-1974 Corvettes in comparable condition to your car.
For Corvettes in this condition and options, 1973 and 1974 are effectively the same, very little difference in price.
I saw four cars (one 1973, three 1974s) that are comparable. Prices sold were $5000, $5100, and $5250, and $5311.
I would say ask around $5700, and be willing to accept $5000.
My totally unscientific analysis. Good luck with your sale.
For Corvettes in this condition and options, 1973 and 1974 are effectively the same, very little difference in price.
I saw four cars (one 1973, three 1974s) that are comparable. Prices sold were $5000, $5100, and $5250, and $5311.
I would say ask around $5700, and be willing to accept $5000.
My totally unscientific analysis. Good luck with your sale.
Agree and good info. Suggestion for you:
Sell it on ebay and let the market determine the price for you. I have bought and sold a number of auto's on ebay.
Suggestions:
*post with lots of photos, good photos and good light with no rakes/garbage cans or lawnmowers in the background.
*all the info you know, the good, bad and ugly
*do not do a reserve, start the price at the absolute lowest you would take, maybe $4699 basis on the posts above.
*no overseas non US sales, sorry, too many scams out there
*face to face final transaction with cash or cashiers check in the banks name, not the buyers name
*if at all possible, wait until March, Jan and Feb is the time to buy not sale
*Get a $500 deposit within 7 days from the high bidder after auction close. Say also, the transaction must be completed within 20 days.
*I always also say, all inspections prior to auction close are welcome and "if the successful high bidder inspects the car prior to final transaction and is not happy, then deposit will be refunded". Some do not like this as you can get stuck with ebay fees, $100 or so, check. My belief is as a buyer, if I am high bidder and come inspect and I find something wrong, then I want to get out of the deal and get my deposit back. So, as a bidder, I am more likely to bid higher if I can reduce my risk. If you do a good listing with facts, lots, and photos, lots, then I think the risk of getting stuck with ebay fees is small. I never have.
*Also, say no bidders with less than 100 positive feedbacks, this helps eliminate the zero feedback bidders with no reputation.
*Read the fine print on ebay transactions, see where ebay can protect you although I think ebay protection is slanted towards the buyer.
*Say also, "after final transaction, no returns, no warranties, implied or otherwise, and no refunds for buyers remorse, buyer must use the listing and inspections to answer all questions prior to final transaction"
Check some successful ebay auction and see how the best ads look. I have gotten more for some cars than expected and less for others. We still trade Christmas cards with a couple of the buyer/sellers.
Hope this helps, sorry to hear about your loss.
Last edited by 20mercury; Feb 3, 2015 at 10:33 AM.
