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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 08:22 AM
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Default gas tank install question

I read some of the previous posts about removal/installation of the tank but my issue wasn't covered. Having 2 problems - 1. The new tank has 2 spots of the welded seam on the rear bent down as if making clearance for the 2 straps. Doesn't this whole lip need to lay flat on the framerail? 2. During the install does the tank need to rotate into place? It won't go straight up into place, then slide back onto the framerail. And it looks like I have to take the sender back out too?
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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The bottom of the tank sits on the rear cross frame rail with a piece of non-squeak material acting as a cushion.
The tank must be rotated into position. Make sure the metal fuel filler tube is removed. Push the rear of the tank up and aft. Once the rear of the tank is above the frame rail, rotate the front of the tank up and in.

You do have the front fuel tank frame rail removed, correct?


Last edited by Revi; Dec 21, 2014 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:16 AM
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I remember having to tilt the tank as it was being lifted into position, holding it into place as the cross member is installed. All of this done with the sending unit in place.

Last edited by c69vete; Dec 21, 2014 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:26 AM
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Having just completed a complete tank install, the other post are correct about rotation, the crossmember, etc. I found it helpful to have two small 1x4's to help hold the tank while reconnecting the crossmember. Once thing I had to do several times was check the placement from above as well, making sure the filler neck was centered. All hoses, etc were pre connected and just trimmed to fit once in place. From a tank install on another car, you want to only place about a gallon of gas back in and let sit for a bit to check for leaks on the fuel sending unit seal. If it's out of place just a little, the wrong time to find out is after filling your tank at the station.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:44 AM
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Hi 68,
Here's 2 pictures looking from the top that matches the one Revi posted viewed from the bottom.
Perhaps along with the explanations from Revi and men
you'll have what you need.
Regards,
Alan

This 71 tank has some connections your 68 doesn't.



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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 10:49 AM
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Ok - I see one of my problems. So at the rear the BOTTOM of the tank sits on the framerail. I was trying to set the welded mating flange on the rail . This is such a tight fit I can't see how anybody did it w/ the exhaust on or even just loosened.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 68notray
Ok - I see one of my problems. So at the rear the BOTTOM of the tank sits on the framerail. I was trying to set the welded mating flange on the rail . This is such a tight fit I can't see how anybody did it w/ the exhaust on or even just loosened.
The exhaust should be removed.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:22 PM
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I had my exhaust loosened and sort of pushed to the side. I guess it depends on the size of mufflers (stock, etc) mine were not stock. Monday they are being replaced to stock style. One of the reasons why I wanted to get the fuel system done first is not to have gas fumes while welding was present. Knocking out on the punch list one by one.

I would suggest tackling any other project you might have with the tank out such as the radio antenna, etc. Most photos, rebuild photos I see regarding the fuel system are with body off. I am not going that extreme yet, so mine was done body on which adds to the drama.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:25 PM
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I meant to ask (for those of you that have replaced an original tank), is what I can put in the old tank to wash it out. I've read everywhere that should a person customize anything, they should keep stock original parts for a possible future owner. I don't think keeping a fuel tank that had pinholes is in my future but I don't want to take it to the recycle center with a fume/hazard.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mtnance
I meant to ask (for those of you that have replaced an original tank), is what I can put in the old tank to wash it out. I've read everywhere that should a person customize anything, they should keep stock original parts for a possible future owner. I don't think keeping a fuel tank that had pinholes is in my future but I don't want to take it to the recycle center with a fume/hazard.
When I tried to take an old tank to the junk yard they wouldn't even take it. It had been empty and open for a couple years and they still wouldn't take it. I ended up cutting it into several pieces so they didn't recognize it as a fuel tank.
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 09:44 PM
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I may start a new post to ask what people did or how they cleaned it out. I guess it's possible to patch a tank but is it worth it? Probably not.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 08:53 PM
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Alan, when did they start using that plastic piece to protect the rear of the tank? My 68 did not have it. Lou.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:37 PM
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Here is another picture of a 68 tank

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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 07:56 AM
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Well I got it installed last night finally. Thanks to all!

I did have to take the sender back out, it was catching on the rear framerail & not letting it rotate into place. Connecting the 2 hoses was easier than I expected once it was in. But, getting the 2 strap bolts started was pretty tough. All said & done I've got a quarter inch clearance between the tank lip and the wall of the vertical rear compartment - seems close but thats where it wants to sit.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 09:33 AM
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Hi L68,
I believe the plastic tank shield appeared on cars at the end of the calendar year 1970.
My mid-January 1971 built 71 has one.
Regards,
Alan

My understanding is that it was placed there so that in the case of a rear end collision the gas from the ruptured tank wouldn't splash back on the car doing the hitting, and catch IT on fire TOO.

Last edited by Alan 71; Dec 23, 2014 at 09:37 AM.
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