1969-71 heater control removal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 14
From: New Britain Connecticut
1969-71 heater control removal
Has anyone put one of those reface kits in? I was thinking about it since one of my thumb wheel dials does not move. also the bulb is out. Just wondering how many things have to come out to get the heater control out. any advice? And yes I have the AIM. But it doesn’t tell you how to get it out. any help would be appreciated.Thanx
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 150
From: Forth Worth TX
You can buy the Heater Control Unit as one assembly, new thumb wheels and all.
For a 4spd car, put car in neutral, unscrew the shifter ****, remove shifter **** and T-handle. (There's a spring in there also.)
Remove the four screws that are inside of the shifter hole that hold the leather boot in place. (Two screws face forward, two screws face aft.)
Remove the two vent slider *****. (Allen heads, near bottom of the ball.)
Remove the four screws that hold the top of the console in. You'll be able to lift it partially up at this point, but be cautious of the fiber optics still being attached and wires/bulb going to the ashtray & lighter. Once you get it partially up you'll be able to unplug the fiber optics, ashtray bulb, and lighter element wire. The rest should be easy to see what needs done.
For a 4spd car, put car in neutral, unscrew the shifter ****, remove shifter **** and T-handle. (There's a spring in there also.)
Remove the four screws that are inside of the shifter hole that hold the leather boot in place. (Two screws face forward, two screws face aft.)
Remove the two vent slider *****. (Allen heads, near bottom of the ball.)
Remove the four screws that hold the top of the console in. You'll be able to lift it partially up at this point, but be cautious of the fiber optics still being attached and wires/bulb going to the ashtray & lighter. Once you get it partially up you'll be able to unplug the fiber optics, ashtray bulb, and lighter element wire. The rest should be easy to see what needs done.
Last edited by Revi; Dec 27, 2014 at 07:10 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,900
Likes: 3
From: Nixa Missouri
Has anyone put one of those reface kits in? I was thinking about it since one of my thumb wheel dials does not move. also the bulb is out. Just wondering how many things have to come out to get the heater control out. any advice? And yes I have the AIM. But it doesn’t tell you how to get it out. any help would be appreciated.Thanx
Here you go. Take a look at this link to see if you want to try to tackle the job.
Hope this helps.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...panel-rebuild/
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 14
From: New Britain Connecticut
Here you go. Take a look at this link to see if you want to try to tackle the job.
Hope this helps.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...panel-rebuild/
Hope this helps.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...panel-rebuild/
I'm more concerned with how to get that out of the car.
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,389
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi S,
Revi's list is a good one.
I'll only add that you need to be very gentle with the fiber-optics lens and connections. The plastic has become VERY FRAGILE.
You need to be careful disconnecting the vacuum hose manifold from the left side of the controller, and also the bowden cable that controls the heat/cold door from the right side of the controller.
Don't forget to put the lamp in the bottom of the controller as you begin reassembly.
Good Luck.
Regards,
Alan
This is what you'll see once the shifter plate is off and you're ready to take the controller (2 screws) out of it's frame/support.
Revi's list is a good one.
I'll only add that you need to be very gentle with the fiber-optics lens and connections. The plastic has become VERY FRAGILE.
You need to be careful disconnecting the vacuum hose manifold from the left side of the controller, and also the bowden cable that controls the heat/cold door from the right side of the controller.
Don't forget to put the lamp in the bottom of the controller as you begin reassembly.
Good Luck.
Regards,
Alan
This is what you'll see once the shifter plate is off and you're ready to take the controller (2 screws) out of it's frame/support.
Last edited by Alan 71; Dec 28, 2014 at 08:45 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 14
From: New Britain Connecticut
Hi S,
Revi's list is a good one.
I'll only add that you need to be very gentle with the fiber-optics lens and connections. The plastic has become VERY FRAGILE.
You need to be careful disconnecting the vacuum hose manifold from the left side of the controller, and also the bowden cable that controls the heat/cold door from the right side of the controller.
Don't forget to put the lamp in the bottom of the controller as you begin reassembly.
Good Luck.
Regards,
Alan
This is what you'll see once the shifter plate is off and you're ready to take the controller (2 screws) out of it's frame/support.
Revi's list is a good one.
I'll only add that you need to be very gentle with the fiber-optics lens and connections. The plastic has become VERY FRAGILE.
You need to be careful disconnecting the vacuum hose manifold from the left side of the controller, and also the bowden cable that controls the heat/cold door from the right side of the controller.
Don't forget to put the lamp in the bottom of the controller as you begin reassembly.
Good Luck.
Regards,
Alan
This is what you'll see once the shifter plate is off and you're ready to take the controller (2 screws) out of it's frame/support.
I took off the shifter plate and the screws for the control. Got the clip screw off for the cable. doesn't seem like their is any room to lift out the control. I pulled up and back doesn't move that much. Their must be a way.at least I got that bulb changed.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,389
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi,
The end of the cable for the hot/cold wheel needs to be disconnected from the controller to lift the controller out of it's bracket.
It's a loop mounted to the other side of this peg. Very tricky to get to.
Regards,
Alan
71 AIM, UPC1asm, M3
The end of the cable for the hot/cold wheel needs to be disconnected from the controller to lift the controller out of it's bracket.
It's a loop mounted to the other side of this peg. Very tricky to get to.
Regards,
Alan
71 AIM, UPC1asm, M3
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 2,633
From: Draper Utah
There is no good reason to remove the four screws that secure the shift boot. The boot easily slides off the shift lever while still attached to the plate when the plate is raised up.
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 150
From: Forth Worth TX
Except that the two forward screws in my shiftboot extended just far enough forward to catch under the metal frame that holds the heater control in place. Making removal that much more difficult when you can't see what is going on underneath there. Removing the screws didn't cause the shift boot to fall off of the console, it just eliminates a possible nuisance.
Last edited by Revi; Dec 29, 2014 at 07:53 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 2,633
From: Draper Utah
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 14
From: New Britain Connecticut
Thanks again I'll have to wait till I have more time but, the reface kit is on the way.