My first 1980 C3
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
Intake.
here are some pics sorry for bad quality
Is this missing a filter of some sort where the hole is??
--it was closed off on the original valve covers, but the aftermarket ones are generic so I would just close it off, had the corvette crossflag emblem
Which red is this?
as i want to buy sun visors
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=12601
here are some pics sorry for bad quality
Is this missing a filter of some sort where the hole is??
--it was closed off on the original valve covers, but the aftermarket ones are generic so I would just close it off, had the corvette crossflag emblem
Which red is this?
as i want to buy sun visors
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=12601
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
heres my valve covers, if you flip the original covers over its just plugged, and most after market covers, have 4 holes so you can configure it to any set up you might build: heres mine now
I see you have a lot of the old emissions stuff still there, but a vac advance distributor, I thought the 0 might have had the comp controlled vac advance on it but maybe it was swapped out for a vac advance, maybe the computer failed that's why the took off the Rochester and put on the edelbrock, heres what mine looked like after I got her to run again, pretty similar to your emissions, water neck, and vac lines everywhere lol
and I have messed around a little with matching the red lol:
rear bumper cover the original red and what I matched on the deck lid etc..
I see you have a lot of the old emissions stuff still there, but a vac advance distributor, I thought the 0 might have had the comp controlled vac advance on it but maybe it was swapped out for a vac advance, maybe the computer failed that's why the took off the Rochester and put on the edelbrock, heres what mine looked like after I got her to run again, pretty similar to your emissions, water neck, and vac lines everywhere lol
and I have messed around a little with matching the red lol:
rear bumper cover the original red and what I matched on the deck lid etc..
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
oh and I missed the torker intake, which usually is a square bore, that would change the exhaust sound some too, you never know they might stroked out the 305, most ppl recommend square bore intakes for stroker builds, but I run one and I havn't stroked it out to a 383, yet, lol
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
I was just thinking too, did the 80 even have a ECM to control the Rochester?? I thought 81 was the first year for that, so the check engine light shouldn't have anything to do with that, I know mine acted funny when I first got her going again after sitting for years, and it had nothing to do with my ecm, it was partially bubba'd up pretty bad. sometimes I know it can act strange if the oil pump is bad too,, in the 81 it would flash certain ways to tell of certain issues, under the ashtray in the consel was a connection used to diagnose it, but not sure for a 80. it does look like someone did a lot of work to engine maybe a wire is touching somewhere causing some of your issues in your gauges and the check engine light, or not quite hooked up the same as it was before they worked on it, not sure. you mentioned that you needed sunvisors, I know in mine the pass side had a lighted mirror, and water has a habit of getting in the birdcage and down the piller to mess with those wires and cause a short, maybe that's why they are gone? something to think about 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 328
Likes: 30
Yeah I thought so but thought maybe I wasn't looking it up correctly.
Wow your car is so nice !! What have you done to it , before and after hp ?
VIN of chassis is 1787HAS424979
And engine is
Vo327xw3
They matching ?
So that hole in rocker cover is ok ?
What emission stuff can I remove ?
Thanks
Wow your car is so nice !! What have you done to it , before and after hp ?
VIN of chassis is 1787HAS424979
And engine is
Vo327xw3
They matching ?
So that hole in rocker cover is ok ?
What emission stuff can I remove ?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 328
Likes: 30
I was just thinking too, did the 80 even have a ECM to control the Rochester?? I thought 81 was the first year for that, so the check engine light shouldn't have anything to do with that, I know mine acted funny when I first got her going again after sitting for years, and it had nothing to do with my ecm, it was partially bubba'd up pretty bad. sometimes I know it can act strange if the oil pump is bad too,, in the 81 it would flash certain ways to tell of certain issues, under the ashtray in the consel was a connection used to diagnose it, but not sure for a 80. it does look like someone did a lot of work to engine maybe a wire is touching somewhere causing some of your issues in your gauges and the check engine light, or not quite hooked up the same as it was before they worked on it, not sure. you mentioned that you needed sunvisors, I know in mine the pass side had a lighted mirror, and water has a habit of getting in the birdcage and down the piller to mess with those wires and cause a short, maybe that's why they are gone? something to think about
Re the other stuff I have no idea
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
lol that is a question for the ages, kinda like what is the best oil, lol everyone has their idea and fix, I love the bolstered seats in the 78-82's I think they are more comfy, what I did was loosen the seat bolts or nuts depending on what side you are doing, and added heavy washers to raise up the back a little, and you do get used to the driving position after a while, I have seen some ppl split a rubber hose and put that on plastic part of the seat back to adjust it to. there is no real fix other than engineering something that works for you
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
Yeah I thought so but thought maybe I wasn't looking it up correctly.
Wow your car is so nice !! What have you done to it , before and after hp ?
VIN of chassis is 1787HAS424979
1972 Corvette VIN Example
1st digit - Make/Manufacturer: 1 = Chevrolet
2nd digit - Model: Z = Corvette
3rd+4th digits - Body Style: 37 = Coupe, 67 = Convertible, 87 = Coupe (1978-1980)
5th digit - Engine: See below for list of engine codes by year
6th digit - Model Year: 2 = 1972, 3 = 1973, 4 = 1974, 5 = 1975, 6 = 1976, 7 = 1977, 8 = 1978, 9 = 1979, A = 1980
7th digit - Assembly Plant: S = St. Louis
8th-13th digits - Production Sequence Number: Starts at 5100001 with each Corvette produced being assigned the next number in sequence. In the example above the first 1972 Corvette VIN ends in 500001 and the last ends with 527004. The Production Sequence Number changed to 4100001 after 1972.
And engine is
Vo327xw3
Engine VIN codes by year:
1972 - K = base (350 cid, 200 hp), L = LT1 (350 cid, 255 hp), W = LS5 (454 cid, 270 hp)
1973 - J = L48 (350 cid, 190 hp), T = L82 (350 cid, 250 hp), Z = LS4 (454 cid, 275 hp)
1974 - J = L48 (350 cid, 195 hp), T = L82 (350 cid, 250 hp), Z = LS4 (454 cid, 270 hp)
1975 - J = L48 (350 cid, 165 hp), T = L82 (350 cid, 205 hp)
1976 - L = L48 (350 cid, 180 hp), X = L82 (350 cid, 210 hp)
1977 - L = L48 (350 cid, 180 hp), X = L82 (350 cid, 210 hp)
1978 - L = L48 (350 cid, 175 hp), X = L82 (350 cid, 220 hp)
1979 - 8 = L48 (350 cid, 195 hp), 4 = L82 (350 cid, 225 hp)
1980 - H = LG4 (305 cid, 180 hp), 8 = L48 (350 cid, 190 hp), 6 = L82 (350 cid, 230 hp)
They matching ?
So that hole in rocker cover is ok ?
I would defiantly cover it or block it, you don't want anything getting in there
What emission stuff can I remove ?
well it looks like your smog pump is already gone, and you headers do not have the AIR stuff still, so I cant see your emmisions stuff doing anything, so I would personally remove it all, you cant think of it as a vette engine, unless you are going to rebuild it to factory specs, if that's the direction you want than its a process of adding what's been removed and making it work properly, if you want more of a muscle car feel and look, think of it as just another small block chevy and your build possibilities are endless, I would start with what is cluttering up the engine bay, the water neck is over complicated with the egr stuff, I would start with that its a simple start and will get rib of some lines right away, think of it this what do you need, you need vac for your headlights, carb, brake booster, and cruise and I think the 80 has a vac to tranny for shifting, lol you will need that, that's it everything else can go, if you look in the drivers fender you will see the smog can, follow those lines and that can all pretty much come off, just make sure as you remove it you do not create a vac leak anywhere, I just started with one thing at a time
Thanks
Wow your car is so nice !! What have you done to it , before and after hp ?
VIN of chassis is 1787HAS424979
1972 Corvette VIN Example
1st digit - Make/Manufacturer: 1 = Chevrolet
2nd digit - Model: Z = Corvette
3rd+4th digits - Body Style: 37 = Coupe, 67 = Convertible, 87 = Coupe (1978-1980)
5th digit - Engine: See below for list of engine codes by year
6th digit - Model Year: 2 = 1972, 3 = 1973, 4 = 1974, 5 = 1975, 6 = 1976, 7 = 1977, 8 = 1978, 9 = 1979, A = 1980
7th digit - Assembly Plant: S = St. Louis
8th-13th digits - Production Sequence Number: Starts at 5100001 with each Corvette produced being assigned the next number in sequence. In the example above the first 1972 Corvette VIN ends in 500001 and the last ends with 527004. The Production Sequence Number changed to 4100001 after 1972.
And engine is
Vo327xw3
Engine VIN codes by year:
1972 - K = base (350 cid, 200 hp), L = LT1 (350 cid, 255 hp), W = LS5 (454 cid, 270 hp)
1973 - J = L48 (350 cid, 190 hp), T = L82 (350 cid, 250 hp), Z = LS4 (454 cid, 275 hp)
1974 - J = L48 (350 cid, 195 hp), T = L82 (350 cid, 250 hp), Z = LS4 (454 cid, 270 hp)
1975 - J = L48 (350 cid, 165 hp), T = L82 (350 cid, 205 hp)
1976 - L = L48 (350 cid, 180 hp), X = L82 (350 cid, 210 hp)
1977 - L = L48 (350 cid, 180 hp), X = L82 (350 cid, 210 hp)
1978 - L = L48 (350 cid, 175 hp), X = L82 (350 cid, 220 hp)
1979 - 8 = L48 (350 cid, 195 hp), 4 = L82 (350 cid, 225 hp)
1980 - H = LG4 (305 cid, 180 hp), 8 = L48 (350 cid, 190 hp), 6 = L82 (350 cid, 230 hp)
They matching ?
So that hole in rocker cover is ok ?
I would defiantly cover it or block it, you don't want anything getting in there
What emission stuff can I remove ?
well it looks like your smog pump is already gone, and you headers do not have the AIR stuff still, so I cant see your emmisions stuff doing anything, so I would personally remove it all, you cant think of it as a vette engine, unless you are going to rebuild it to factory specs, if that's the direction you want than its a process of adding what's been removed and making it work properly, if you want more of a muscle car feel and look, think of it as just another small block chevy and your build possibilities are endless, I would start with what is cluttering up the engine bay, the water neck is over complicated with the egr stuff, I would start with that its a simple start and will get rib of some lines right away, think of it this what do you need, you need vac for your headlights, carb, brake booster, and cruise and I think the 80 has a vac to tranny for shifting, lol you will need that, that's it everything else can go, if you look in the drivers fender you will see the smog can, follow those lines and that can all pretty much come off, just make sure as you remove it you do not create a vac leak anywhere, I just started with one thing at a time
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
this broke my heart:
but I just finished that rebuild after replacing both TA's brakes, lines, re diff rebuild, all new u joints, everything blasted and repainted, all new bushing everywhere, everything from the tranny back rebuilt:
heres the body work after I blended in a patch from a 78 donor quarter:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,842
Likes: 285
From: Palmdale CA
Regarding your mirror that needs paint: Many automotive paint supply outlets, will custom mix a spray can for you. My local store, only had me bring in one of my T tops, so they could get it as close as possible. They got really close, but they knew the correct stock paint code too. Looks like they painted your car, the,factory color, so you might get a really close match. Don't forget to lightly sand and clean the outside with acetone or thinner before painting.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 530
Likes: 10
I thought 81 was the first year for that, so the check engine light shouldn't have anything to do with that, I know mine acted funny when I first got her going again after sitting for years, and it had nothing to do with my ecm, it was partially bubba'd up pretty bad.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 530
Likes: 10
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 530
Likes: 10
You've got the same Cooper tires that I've got on my 1980. That's one thing... the proper size tires to fit the stock 15x8 rims are getting hard to find. There aren't too many choices any more.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
I could only find cooper and BF's I like the coopers better, imho
Last edited by chrisNY; Jan 1, 2015 at 01:05 PM.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 530
Likes: 10
Yeah, there aren't many others available in 255/60R15 these days. A few off brands like the "Grand Prix"... I've never had a really good experience with those off brands... And I'd definitely pick Copper over BF Badrich. The fact the BFGs were 1/2 again more expensive was part of it... But I put a very expensive at the time set of BFG Radial T/A tires on a '72 Chevelle I had a while back... The car drove fine but the back pair only lasted a little over 5000 miles... I put a new set of Good Years on the front and moved the BFGs that had been on the front to the back... and those wore out just as fast. After that I said never again. It isn't like the Good Years lasted that much longer, I was getting maybe 10-12k miles on the back ones before they were worn bald... But the Good Years drove nearly as well and cost a little less...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 328
Likes: 30
Thanks for the replies, wow you did a amazing job on that repair, you would never have known it was damaged !
That silver cross-member i can see under your car, mine is all black... is it a different metal or mine just painted as the 1980 was supposed to come with Al wasnt it ?
What other suspension work can you do to make it nicer like coilovers, sway bars ect ? Yours is all so clean and mine looks very worn out and old ! The leaf spring thing also looks way thicker on mine and yours is thinner, why is that
Paint PR4 i was told. What brand do i get this in ?
And engine is Vo327xw3 which doesnt seem to match anything...
That silver cross-member i can see under your car, mine is all black... is it a different metal or mine just painted as the 1980 was supposed to come with Al wasnt it ?
What other suspension work can you do to make it nicer like coilovers, sway bars ect ? Yours is all so clean and mine looks very worn out and old ! The leaf spring thing also looks way thicker on mine and yours is thinner, why is that
Paint PR4 i was told. What brand do i get this in ?
And engine is Vo327xw3 which doesnt seem to match anything...
Last edited by R6n350GT; Jan 1, 2015 at 07:42 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
Thanks for the replies, wow you did a amazing job on that repair, you would never have known it was damaged !
That silver cross-member i can see under your car, mine is all black... is it a different metal or mine just painted as the 1980 was supposed to come with Al wasnt it ?
What other suspension work can you do to make it nicer like coilovers, sway bars ect ? Yours is all so clean and mine looks very worn out and old ! The leaf spring thing also looks way thicker on mine and yours is thinner, why is that
Paint PR4 i was told. What brand do i get this in ?
And engine is Vo327xw3 which doesnt seem to match anything...
That silver cross-member i can see under your car, mine is all black... is it a different metal or mine just painted as the 1980 was supposed to come with Al wasnt it ?
What other suspension work can you do to make it nicer like coilovers, sway bars ect ? Yours is all so clean and mine looks very worn out and old ! The leaf spring thing also looks way thicker on mine and yours is thinner, why is that
Paint PR4 i was told. What brand do i get this in ?
And engine is Vo327xw3 which doesnt seem to match anything...
after blasting, acid etch and re sprayed
I do have a rear sway bar on mine, all the venders sell them, I went with a 5/8 bar since I have a 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 front, cant remember for sure, been a while lol, makes for a nice ride and control, not to stiff but good, its just personal preference
for better suspension, a lot of vendors sell complete kits that bolt on, and the rear spring on the 81 is when they went with a composite single spring instead of the leafs, I have seen a lot of ppl swap out the leafs for the composite springs, a lot of weight saved there, and you can get a few different resistance strength of them.
the PR4 paint code is a Chrysler flame red, if you are lucky enough to know for sure whoever re sprayed yours used it then you are all set, I would defiantly use a single stage version of it, not a base, clear coat, but that is just my preference . I am actually re painting my neighbor's CJ5 with it, kinda a trade off for the use of his garage, everything I have done to mine I have done in my driveway until this winter. hopefully I can get a garage built this summer, that would make life so much easier, but you can do anything if you have the determination to do it, don't need a fancy garage or anything look at what I have done
Racer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 331
Likes: 29
From: Moyock NC
Yeah, there aren't many others available in 255/60R15 these days. A few off brands like the "Grand Prix"... I've never had a really good experience with those off brands... And I'd definitely pick Copper over BF Badrich. The fact the BFGs were 1/2 again more expensive was part of it... But I put a very expensive at the time set of BFG Radial T/A tires on a '72 Chevelle I had a while back... The car drove fine but the back pair only lasted a little over 5000 miles... I put a new set of Good Years on the front and moved the BFGs that had been on the front to the back... and those wore out just as fast. After that I said never again. It isn't like the Good Years lasted that much longer, I was getting maybe 10-12k miles on the back ones before they were worn bald... But the Good Years drove nearly as well and cost a little less...
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 530
Likes: 10
Weird... I just noticed that Summit is offering free shipping on the Mickeys and charging a $9.90 each heavy shipping surcharge on the Coopers... If that was the case where I got my tires I would probably have gone with the Mickeys...