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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 08:01 PM
  #41  
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Anyone have pics of before and after sway bars so i can see where they go?
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 12:23 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by R6n350GT
Anyone have pics of before and after sway bars so i can see where they go?

Example here ;

http://www.vbandp.com/index.php?orde...rd1=&keyword2=


Anyone used this , worth going from $800 kit to $1200 ?

I may not do it right away but just so I know
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 07:21 PM
  #43  
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ok my car is arriving today, i have only driven it once before getting it shipped back to my house so whoho i get to drive it again !!.

Here is the parts coming for it

Wilcox
Assembly Manual CD format 1980
Brake Line Kit. Stainless Steel - Street Legal Hose Kit 63-82
Caliper Seal Kit. Front-Lip Seal 65-82
Caliper Seal Kit. Rear-Lip Seal 65-82
Center Armrest. Red Leather 79-81
Dome Light Lens. 74-82
Heater/Air Conditioning Control Vacuum Select Switch. 77-82
Owners Manual. Corvette
Speedo & Tach Lens. 78-82
Sunvisor Support Repair Kit. Telescopic
Sunvisor. Red
Sunvisor. Red LH Telescopic With Rod
Suspension Kit. Touring W/Monosprng 80-82
Vacuum Hose Filter. 68-82
Vent Filter. Inside Air Cleaner Base 73-81


Summit
TransGo Performance Shift Kits 350-1-2 (orange spring)

Other
Slotted Rotors and Pads
Floor mats
Bleed screws

Brakes will get rebuilt and painted and Motul RBF600 fluid used

Ill post pics as i do things
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 09:53 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by chrisNY
the better question is what have I not done, lol, the only thing I have not done is replace the upper and lower control arm bushings, and the body mounts, everything else I have messed with, might not have replaced but I have worked on, just lost the whole passenger quarter before Halloween when my rear spindle broke and lost the rear tire, this broke my heart: but I just finished that rebuild after replacing both TA's brakes, lines, re diff rebuild, all new u joints, everything blasted and repainted, all new bushing everywhere, everything from the tranny back rebuilt: heres the body work after I blended in a patch from a 78 donor quarter:
You did a nice job, especially considering where you started. You've inspired me on cleaning up the rear suspension. (Did you mechanically or chemically clean the aluminum suspension components?). And, above all, major kudos on your notable C3 driving skills in controlling what could have been a tragedy.
Dave
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:12 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by R6n350GT
ok my car is arriving today, i have only driven it once before getting it shipped back to my house so whoho i get to drive it again !!.

Here is the parts coming for it

Wilcox
Assembly Manual CD format 1980
Brake Line Kit. Stainless Steel - Street Legal Hose Kit 63-82
Caliper Seal Kit. Front-Lip Seal 65-82
Caliper Seal Kit. Rear-Lip Seal 65-82
Center Armrest. Red Leather 79-81
Dome Light Lens. 74-82
Heater/Air Conditioning Control Vacuum Select Switch. 77-82
Owners Manual. Corvette
Speedo & Tach Lens. 78-82
Sunvisor Support Repair Kit. Telescopic
Sunvisor. Red
Sunvisor. Red LH Telescopic With Rod
Suspension Kit. Touring W/Monosprng 80-82
Vacuum Hose Filter. 68-82
Vent Filter. Inside Air Cleaner Base 73-81


Summit
TransGo Performance Shift Kits 350-1-2 (orange spring)

Other
Slotted Rotors and Pads
Floor mats
Bleed screws

Brakes will get rebuilt and painted and Motul RBF600 fluid used

Ill post pics as i do things
good luck and congrats again, I cant wait to see how it progresses
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:59 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Lakeside49
You did a nice job, especially considering where you started. You've inspired me on cleaning up the rear suspension. (Did you mechanically or chemically clean the aluminum suspension components?). And, above all, major kudos on your notable C3 driving skills in controlling what could have been a tragedy.
Dave
thank you very much , it wasn't a job I was expecting to do, but it had to be done. the TA's and the fiberglass repair was not a job I was ever expecting to do, everything I checked with the TA's never lead me feel like they were unsafe, they were tight, no play that I could find, but I couldn't test the inner bearing which is what failed, seized and spun which lead to the spindle break, but come to find out my drivers side one was warped as well, not sure if it started to warp because of heat, or maybe heat added at some time to remove it, either way it was a perfect time to replace it as for the batwing and diff housing, a lot of elbow grease and degreaser, acid etched, than cleaned again to stop the acid, than re sprayed with high heat aluminum engine paint, after rebuilding the diff, new stub axles, pinion shaft, seals gaskets etc, took awhile but I think the end result was worth it, and it doesn't leak, the stub axles are tight, works great, and should last the rest of the lifetime of the car. now I am confident on my next restoration where I will start, regardless of the cost of the parts it will be the first job I do, hopefully late next summer I can find a 77 or earlier to start to rebuild, been looking for a while but just find one that is reasonably priced for what it is, everyone thinks their abused trashed 77 l48, that's falling apart, or older is worth 5 grand or better, but at some point I will find it
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 02:06 AM
  #47  
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thanks ! I cant wait to put it all on !!

So here are some better quality pics. I would like a better air filter, any suggestions?


Any emission stuff i can take off? and can you tell from this if i have the vacuum switch by the distributor making my car a TH350-C ?







What are, A,B,C,D,E for? Its on the drivers side.


UPDATE: Cruse control transducer http://www.splashedpaint.com/cameron...iseControl.pdf
But i still dont know what E is for..


And this, "F"


UPDATE: Speedo filter http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/asset...ette/46137.jpg

And this, "G"


Does it matter about that hole in rocker cover?


Are these stock headers?

Last edited by R6n350GT; Jan 5, 2015 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 02:08 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by chrisNY
thank you very much , it wasn't a job I was expecting to do, but it had to be done. the TA's and the fiberglass repair was not a job I was ever expecting to do, everything I checked with the TA's never lead me feel like they were unsafe, they were tight, no play that I could find, but I couldn't test the inner bearing which is what failed, seized and spun which lead to the spindle break, but come to find out my drivers side one was warped as well, not sure if it started to warp because of heat, or maybe heat added at some time to remove it, either way it was a perfect time to replace it as for the batwing and diff housing, a lot of elbow grease and degreaser, acid etched, than cleaned again to stop the acid, than re sprayed with high heat aluminum engine paint, after rebuilding the diff, new stub axles, pinion shaft, seals gaskets etc, took awhile but I think the end result was worth it, and it doesn't leak, the stub axles are tight, works great, and should last the rest of the lifetime of the car. now I am confident on my next restoration where I will start, regardless of the cost of the parts it will be the first job I do, hopefully late next summer I can find a 77 or earlier to start to rebuild, been looking for a while but just find one that is reasonably priced for what it is, everyone thinks their abused trashed 77 l48, that's falling apart, or older is worth 5 grand or better, but at some point I will find it

This is why i just brought the suspension stuff now, so then when its being put on i can check everything else and make sure its in order..
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #49  
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As far as that hole, you can solve two problems with one solution. Find a used stock dual snorkel like they used on the 1974. It also has a provision to run a steel tube to a foam breather element inside the edge of the air cleaner, to that hole in the valve cover.

All the misc parts are avaliable through the various vendors. Unfortunately the only pic, shows the front side, with the pcv side of,the valve cover, the breather is on the passenger side.

The exhaust is not factory, somebody put headers on, at one point. If you don't have an AIM and the FSM, get one, it will show or tell you what all those connectors are, unless somebody chimes in.


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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 08:38 AM
  #50  
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I found a pic that shows the passenger side of the air cleaner. Personally, I like the look of the factory air cleaner. I had mine powder coated in a color they called "GM 40% gloss ".
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 10:34 AM
  #51  
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you can always just stick a breather from auto zone in the hole on the valve cover until you get to the motor upgrade... and you will upgrade. You know that is down the road, so don't spend a lot of money in that area yet. Get her driving well and then make it fast. Get a new steering wheel fast. That is nasty! You can buy a nice one for not much money at the parts store. You will be surprised how many parts for an 80 you can get at the local parts place. I was... Nice car and have fun with it. I have had a blast with mine!
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 10:53 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by R6n350GT
thanks ! I cant wait to put it all on !!

So here are some better quality pics. I would like a better air filter, any suggestions?


Any emission stuff i can take off? and can you tell from this if i have the vacuum switch by the distributor making my car a TH350-C ?







What are, A,B,C,D,E for? Its on the drivers side.



And this, "F"


And this, "G"


Does it matter about that hole in rocker cover?


Are these stock headers?
lets start with one thing at a time, no they are not stock headers, the stock ones have the emissions tubes on the top, and does your speedo and tach work right now???, "f" is your original tach line with a noise filter on it, that was originally connected to the distributor, and the other pick with a,b,c etc looks to me like the transducer which runs your speedo and cruise control, but not sure from the pic, if that's what it is then your speedo must not be working, or they bypassed it with a single long speedo cable
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 04:44 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by F22

I found a pic that shows the passenger side of the air cleaner. Personally, I like the look of the factory air cleaner. I had mine powder coated in a color they called "GM 40% gloss ".
Thanks, i am not sure if i should get which air filter..


151531882987 $50


161546710027 $140


161536431000 $60


221466846525 $120


OR some of the many K&N ones
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...eaner&_sacat=0

Last edited by R6n350GT; Jan 5, 2015 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 04:51 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by chrisNY
lets start with one thing at a time, no they are not stock headers, the stock ones have the emissions tubes on the top, and does your speedo and tach work right now???, "f" is your original tach line with a noise filter on it, that was originally connected to the distributor, and the other pick with a,b,c etc looks to me like the transducer which runs your speedo and cruise control, but not sure from the pic, if that's what it is then your speedo must not be working, or they bypassed it with a single long speedo cable

Speedo works yes
the fuel gauge needle flickers up and down and check engine light flashes on and off

Cruise control i have not tested.. not even sure how it works. AIM and user manual ordered from Willcox but wont get them for a while..
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 04:59 PM
  #55  
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[QUOTE=R6n350GT;1588648777]Thanks, i am not sure if i should get which air filter..



OR some of the many K&N ones
QUOTE]

Get whatever you'd like if you go that route. The reason I suggested the factory air cleaner, is that it has a provision for the breather to exhaust into the air cleaner area, versus your valve cover. The reason it's there (along with the PCV valve) is because it relieves the pressure in the bottom of the engine.

Everybody and their brother has one of those pictured. We see them in the shop all the time. Personally, I like the look of the dual snorkel, factory air cleaner. Get whatever floats your boat.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:24 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by R6n350GT
Speedo works yes
the fuel gauge needle flickers up and down and check engine light flashes on and off

Cruise control i have not tested.. not even sure how it works. AIM and user manual ordered from Willcox but wont get them for a while..
what about the tach??, I have a feeling your check engine light is flashing because of the EGR system, but not sure, I think its going to be a elimination system of trial and error with some of those connections that are not connected anymore, from the look of the pics I would say your cruise control is not their, I don't see the cruise vac pot, and that really does look like the transducer that's un hooked, the plug up by your ac compressor, looks like the connection for the electric aux fan on the front of the radiator, if you have it
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:33 PM
  #57  
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Congrats, the car looks great. Good luck with it.
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To My first 1980 C3

Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:51 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by tyancey00
you can always just stick a breather from auto zone in the hole on the valve cover until you get to the motor upgrade... and you will upgrade. You know that is down the road, so don't spend a lot of money in that area yet. Get her driving well and then make it fast. Get a new steering wheel fast. That is nasty! You can buy a nice one for not much money at the parts store. You will be surprised how many parts for an 80 you can get at the local parts place. I was... Nice car and have fun with it. I have had a blast with mine!
1. Breather valve something like this



121376101964

For valve covers with 1-1/4" filler holes
CHROME TOP IS 75MM DIAMETER

2. Steering wheel - what is this thing here, is it to take it off ?


Any suggestions for replacements, get both new wheel and the C3 emblem ?


181480539682


and either 320mm or 350mm ??
Keep in mind it will have the emblem replaced with ^



261722992785

OR



201254617167
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:57 PM
  #59  
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[QUOTE=F22;1588648907]
Originally Posted by R6n350GT
Thanks, i am not sure if i should get which air filter..



OR some of the many K&N ones
QUOTE]

Get whatever you'd like if you go that route. The reason I suggested the factory air cleaner, is that it has a provision for the breather to exhaust into the air cleaner area, versus your valve cover. The reason it's there (along with the PCV valve) is because it relieves the pressure in the bottom of the engine.

Everybody and their brother has one of those pictured. We see them in the shop all the time. Personally, I like the look of the dual snorkel, factory air cleaner. Get whatever floats your boat.
Can you get one of those filters and use the snorkel ?

Ill go check the tach now

Last edited by R6n350GT; Jan 6, 2015 at 05:03 AM.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 06:00 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by chrisNY
what about the tach??, I have a feeling your check engine light is flashing because of the EGR system, but not sure, I think its going to be a elimination system of trial and error with some of those connections that are not connected anymore, from the look of the pics I would say your cruise control is not their, I don't see the cruise vac pot, and that really does look like the transducer that's un hooked, the plug up by your ac compressor, looks like the connection for the electric aux fan on the front of the radiator, if you have it
Are you referring to "G" " plug up by your ac compressor, looks like the connection for the electric aux fan "?

Ill check if i have a fan at the front of the radiator. I am so happy you guys are helping me understand all these plugs...

EGR system, how do i check if thats causing the check engine light? Any diagrams of all the engine grounds ?

Is the PCV valve supposed to go from that hole in my rocker cover to the front of the carby?
page 19 of http://www.corvettebergen.com/owners.../c3_repair.pdf

Ok to answer my own question; PCV is on the drivers side and it goes to the front carby. The hole in the passenger side rocker cover should go to the air filter but i will use a push in Valve style filter instead.. So thats one problem solved.
Or from reading the hole ran a hose to the port on a air filter? My air filter has the port but no hose on it.. its sucking in unfiltered air..

Last edited by R6n350GT; Jan 5, 2015 at 06:47 PM.
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