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And my Car.
Finally found a shop that does Road Force wheel balancing. They also have a very high tech 4 wheel alignment machine AND a old tech that works on 60's - 70's cars regularly. And has a clue.
So I had my wheels Road Forced Balanced.
I know, I fixed the bad shake already, but thought, lets see what they find. I also had them set up my car on there fancy alignment machine. Not to adjust anything. Just take a reading.
What I found, they spent over 2 hours on my car. Moving tires on the rims to get my wheels and tires as perfect as they could. (My old original wheels are just fine). I think every tech there was super keen to work on the old Stingray. Like it was a special treat. They did a brilliant job.
Car is smoother than ever. Took it up to 80MPH. on my test drive. Smooth as! Sitting right on 72MPH, my former trouble spot was also completely smooth.
What did I learn from the alignment machine?
My rear Toe is really, really close. Just a tad more toe on the right than left. But I think I'd need a paper thin shim to get it any closer. My rear camber was off side to side by .02 of a degree. Near perfect.
Up front they found I had a tad more toe than they thought I should. About 3mm per side. I had put a little more toe into it a few weeks back trying to find my terrible vibration, and hadn't adjusted it back yet.
(I have now).
All up I hate having others work on my toys. But I really can't justify the expense of a Road Force balancing machine.
Interesting experience. The guys explained every step. Seemed thrilled to work on my old junk. And charged me less than I would have expected.
And my car is really smooth and tracks great.
Finally found a shop that does Road Force wheel balancing.
What did I learn from the alignment machine?
Near perfect.
And my car is really smooth and tracks great.
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Thats great to hear! Isn't that awesome that this proves you can get a perfect alignment with the junk we have at home,, string, scrap sheet metal plates, 2ft level, tape measure, ,,,
Shure its interesting to watch someone else do it,, but anyone can do it at home if they want to.
Great follow-up to your "VIBRATION ADVENTURE".
I think your hose is a tad long and almost to a kink. The smoother you can get the flow, the more efficient cooling will be. I suggest trimming an inch or so from the block end and seeing how that looks for making that sharp elbow into a smooth curve.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I had to do a tune up on the garage heater...had a misfire the other night and it got reallllllll cold in there. Thats not good when I have cans of 40 dollar a can interior dye in there plus all the other paints
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 11-25-2023 at 07:59 PM.
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Thats great to hear! Isn't that awesome that this proves you can get a perfect alignment with the junk we have at home,, string, scrap sheet metal plates, 2ft level, tape measure, ,,,
I wouldn't say it's absolutely perfect. But I'd bet it's closer than most cars on the road.
Of course let's not forget just how many hours of futzing around I have in it!
And then take it for a rip, pull back in nice and straight, measure again. Adjust some more, repeat. And repeat and repeat.
These guys can do a 4 wheel alignment in a fraction of the time it took me. But there is the satisfaction of doing it yourself. And I am glad I had them check it.
Nothing wrong with double checking things.
And I got a good Caster reading, something I have trouble with at home with my strings and level and angle meter App on my phone.
managed to change spark plugs 6 and 8 today. Just 2 and 4 to go. Cant get them from underneath the car so I will probably have to remove the AC compressor. Any advice on that is appreciated.
managed to change spark plugs 6 and 8 today. Just 2 and 4 to go. Cant get them from underneath the car so I will probably have to remove the AC compressor. Any advice on that is appreciated.
When I had my 69 with A/C I would remove the belt, unbolt the compressor from the brackets and move it to the side without disconnecting the hoses. It wasn’t a big deal.
When I had my 69 with A/C I would remove the belt, unbolt the compressor from the brackets and move it to the side without disconnecting the hoses. It wasn’t a big deal.
That's encouraging. I should have all of them done by lunch tomorrow. Very cool, thanks
I did some exhaust work and ordered my steering column firewall mount and seals. I kinda got screwed on the steering column deal. I ordered a black powder coated column but got the plain steel and had to paint it. They completely ignored my email questions because it was shipped directly from Ididit... so the 25% off deal wasn't such a deal after all. Live and learn and order from another supplier when I can...
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
if I remember correctly its right around 11:1 I think I wanted 113cc combustion chambers and ended up with 115cc so it went from just over to just under
I love the custom air filter lid. The base, well, interesting.
More air versus cold air. Only issue here is what makes you think having a open air filter will allow your engine to pull more air? If your stock setup supplies all the air your engine is capable of sucking. Opening up the air filter will have zero net results.
Go though this all the time with Harley's. Everyone needs a high flow air filter. But how much air is the engine capable of moving?
Sometimes the air box itself is a bit restrictive due to noise concerns. So Opening up the box will indeed improve flow and horse power. But only way up high in the rev range. On the street, you’re likely to notice the increase in noise. So it'll sound more powerful.
The base is just the stock base, benefit there is I don’t have to disturb the vac lines or the pcv fitting if I use the stock base. That’s the only reason why it’s still there.
I don’t think for sure it will pull more air, it really is an experiment as I described. Part of it is the age old flipping the airlid which I’m sure you’ve seen, and part is inspiration from a long thread elsewhere on the forum on the subject. It was more responsive when I had the foam triangle Edelbrock air cleaner everyone hates, which was really noisy and kind of annoying, this was also before I switched to fuel injection. I don’t have a dyno and am not doing timed runs (maybe one day) for now I’m just looking at bottom end responsiveness.
The base is just the stock base, benefit there is I don’t have to disturb the vac lines or the pcv fitting if I use the stock base. That’s the only reason why it’s still there.
I don’t think for sure it will pull more air, it really is an experiment as I described. Part of it is the age old flipping the airlid which I’m sure you’ve seen, and part is inspiration from a long thread elsewhere on the forum on the subject. It was more responsive when I had the foam triangle Edelbrock air cleaner everyone hates, which was really noisy and kind of annoying, this was also before I switched to fuel injection. I don’t have a dyno and am not doing timed runs (maybe one day) for now I’m just looking at bottom end responsiveness.
I remember that, but no way it’s fitting under my hood! 😀
Mr. shok. I believe you have a 77. Me too!
here's my air filter.
Note the air filter base is sitting OVER the distributor ignition shielding. The air filter itself is a 14 ×3 inch.
And I have a fancy wing nut.
All you need is a taller hood!
11-25-2023, 02:12 AM
