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Seating a pilot bearing

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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 08:36 AM
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Default Seating a pilot bearing

I did not want to bury my question in my restore post, not everyone follows it. I need to replace the pilot bearing and the old one has already been removed. Show me what you have used and any tips would help.
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Roger
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 09:08 AM
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Roger,

Full disclosure - I'm not a mechanic. Regardless, I assume you're referring to the bushing/bearing that a manual transmission spline rides in on the end of the crank. If so, I suggest you replace the old solid bushing with a roller bearing. To facilitate installation expand the end of the crank by heating it. Use boiling water if the crank's out and a hair dryer if its not. (Do NOT use a direct flame. This may cause a fire.) Also shrink the roller bearing by putting it in the freezer. Then slide it in and seat it with a socket of appropriate size.

Hope that helps

MeV
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 09:31 AM
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Stay with the Oilite solid bearings-there's nothing to break. First, try the bearing on the input shaft of the trans, I had one that was a very tight fit. Measure the depth of the crank hole and the length of the bearing so you know when to stop hammering! Use a socket slightly smaller than the bearing to seat it with moderate hammer strikes. Stay away from the center to prevent distortion of the hole.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 09:35 AM
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Annnnnnnnnnnnd......take some 400-600 grit wet-sanding paper (use it dry) and remove any marks/scrapes/rust inside the fit before heating it.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 09:59 AM
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I would not use a roller bearing. Total failure in a few thousand miles. You'll find other posts with the same results.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 10:03 AM
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I like the solid brass bushings. They will last as long as your clutch disc and won't fail. A roller bearing that small can and have failed causing seizure and damaging the input shaft of the transmission . Just drive the bushing in flush with a socket the size of the outer part of the bushing.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 10:57 AM
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Default Pilot Bearing

I will have the solid brass unit. I planned on a smaller socket and trying it on the shaft first. Not sure if the inside diameter will change as it goes in. Deadblow hammer but was not aware of heating it. Can you use a small amount of bearing grease around the outside to help it go in? I assume it goes even with the block or I guess measure it like some one suggested. Okay I have a pretty good idea on how not to screw it up.
Thanks Everyone
R
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 11:13 AM
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I don't see why you should need to heat it, Roger. Lou.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 11:16 AM
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Are the GM Performance Parts roller bearings that fragile? I have one on my ZZ4 flywheel.
You guys have me worried now. I thought that it would be longer lasting than the brass bushing. Lou.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by loup68
Are the GM Performance Parts roller bearings that fragile? I have one on my ZZ4 flywheel.
You guys have me worried now. I thought that it would be longer lasting than the brass bushing. Lou.
Now Lou Booobie don't worry I am sure your car will be fine. I don't think I will heat it either. I am just a little worried that it will fit on the shaft but when I tap it into its location the ID may change. I guess I can always Dremel it a pinch.
R
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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Default pilot bushing

HI Roger.

Soak the oilite bushing in clean motor oil and then put it in the freezer over night after having checked to make sure it fits over the transmission input shaft.

Use the socket as others suggested to drive it in flush. Make sure the pilot bushing is non-magnetic. If it is magnetic you can get a correct pilot bushing form auto gear that is the correct material for miles of trouble free service.

Bill
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by loup68
I don't see why you should need to heat it, Roger. Lou.
No need to heat. If the bushing is the same temperature as the crankshaft everything will be factory specs. It is supposed to be tight . Just make sure that you have it started straight and it will drive right in. No lubricants , just drive it in. You won't have a problem. Some of the solid brass bearings already have a lubricant impregnated into the brass.
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 03:09 PM
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I will add you should check the replacement bushing, see if it contains iron. I've heard of some Chinese replacements which have iron in them, claims of the input shaft to the transmission being damaged over time. Easiest way to tell is put a magnet to the bushing, shouldn't be attracted at all. From what I've heard, the originals did not contain iron. I've stayed with original bushings, no personal experience with what's out there these days.

Last edited by BBCorv70; Jan 25, 2015 at 03:15 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 04:45 PM
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Default pilot bushing

Thank you everyone for your input and ways of checking and installing the pilot bushing. Hopefully it will arrive mid week so I can take care of the step and put everything back the way it was.
Thank You
Roger
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 1974ta
HI Roger.

Soak the oilite bushing in clean motor oil and then put it in the freezer over night after having checked to make sure it fits over the transmission input shaft.

Use the socket as others suggested to drive it in flush. Make sure the pilot bushing is non-magnetic. If it is magnetic you can get a correct pilot bushing form auto gear that is the correct material for miles of trouble free service.

Bill
Hi Bill, I took your advice and spoke with Nathan at Auto Gear and he was very informative. He is sending me there pilot bushing. He also mentioned some od the same tips that others gave me in this post. Should have it by the end of the week. Thanks for the tip.
Roger
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 08:04 AM
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Default pilot bushing

Can I use the spline off an old Muncie to tap the bushing in???
R
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rvzio
Can I use the spline off an old Muncie to tap the bushing in???
R
You talking about the input shaft? I believe there's a big radius on the shaft that will destroy the bushing.


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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 01:22 PM
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the radius on the shaft fits the bushing radius perfect, so anwser is yes,
I do it all the time
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 02:25 PM
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Get a wooden dowel and tap it in.
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 05:36 PM
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I used my Damper puller. I set it up on the end of the crank and it pushed it right in. Replacing will still in the car and laying on the floor I really could not get a good straight blow to drive it with a socket. so pushed it in.
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