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So today I finally got time to sit down and work through my battery drain issue, figured out that it's the clock most likely causing the issue (40 ma draw...removing the clock/lighter fuse causes the draw to go to 0. I've read that's way above normal for the clock, and that it may be using more sometimes). The car didn't originally have this issue, I think it may have occurred when I replaced the radio, as it seems like the draw and radio install happened at the same time. In any case, I'm looking at options...it appears like I could get a quartz clock or repair the old one, any other options? Factory originality isn't that big of a deal, my car doesn't have most of it's original parts already. Quartz appears to be the best option probably for reliability and battery draw? Thanks
I agree with your analysis. Another option may be to put a cut-ff switch on the battery. This stops the draw completely no matter what.
Not sure if that appeals to you.
Many opt to trade the clock out for another gauge of some kind. Most people wear a watch or have a clock on their phone, and since most aftermarket radios have a clock in them it's somewhat redundant to have one in the car. On the other hand, it does take away from the aesthetics of the car.
Personally, I'd convert the existing clock to quartz. Replacing it with an entirely new quartz clock would leave it looking a lot newer than the other gauges: it'd be out of place. Better to preserve the aesthetic and convert the one you have; usually cheaper too.
I'm replacing the clock in my '80 with an oil temperature gauge as in the '82. The clock is useless because the Retro Sound stereo already has a digital clock display.
Quartz for me... be careful aligning the hour hand when going back together... i missed it by negative 10-minuets.
Originally Posted by taylor34
So today I finally got time to sit down and work through my battery drain issue, figured out that it's the clock most likely causing the issue (40 ma draw...removing the clock/lighter fuse causes the draw to go to 0. I've read that's way above normal for the clock, and that it may be using more sometimes). The car didn't originally have this issue, I think it may have occurred when I replaced the radio, as it seems like the draw and radio install happened at the same time. In any case, I'm looking at options...it appears like I could get a quartz clock or repair the old one, any other options? Factory originality isn't that big of a deal, my car doesn't have most of it's original parts already. Quartz appears to be the best option probably for reliability and battery draw? Thanks
Last edited by Carl in LA; Jan 31, 2015 at 10:30 PM.
The car didn't originally have this issue, I think it may have occurred when I replaced the radio, as it seems like the draw and radio install happened at the same time.
Modern radios with electronic presets require power all the time so they don't lose the preset channels. Did you by any chance wire the "always on" wire to the cigarette lighter circuit? The radio may be your draw.
Modern radios with electronic presets require power all the time so they don't lose the preset channels. Did you by any chance wire the "always on" wire to the cigarette lighter circuit? The radio may be your draw.
No, it's wired directly to the battery...it didn't seem to have any major effect on the usage during my testing (10 ma or less, except at initial power where it spikes).
I believe the original factory clock should draw power only when the winding mechanism is tripped. Did you try disconnecting the clock to confirm it's the culprit? Does the clock still work or is it stuck? If it's stuck there may be a problem with the clock where the winder is hung up (best as I can describe it).
I'd verify the current drain is gone with just the clock disconnected unless you were having issues with the clock before.
I'm replacing the clock in my '80 with an oil temperature gauge as in the '82. The clock is useless because the Retro Sound stereo already has a digital clock display.
The tiny electromagnet that trips the re-wind mechanism may be shorted internally or stuck-engaged causing an above-normal current draw....like the members mentioned.
The tiny electromagnet that trips the re-wind mechanism may be shorted internally or stuck-engaged causing an above-normal current draw....like the members mentioned.
I'm sure that's what's happening (clock doesn't work, just the seconds hand rotating), but there isn't really any way to fix that, correct (well without going down this same road again sometime down the road). It sounds like going quartz is the best option overall for reliability and current draw, after seeing all the other options posted.
The stock clock is an electro-mechanical unit. It has a balance wheel like a normal clock; but it is rewound every 2 minutes when two contacts come together and fire a solenoid to re-stretch the rewind spring.
The most common failure of that clock is that the contacts get burnt from MANY repeat cycles. When that happens, it unwinds, but when the contacts come together, the crud on them prevents enough current to fire the solenoid. But, it still has some constant amount of drain from the partially-powered solenoid.
The fix is to replace the clock with another stock unit...and then again in another 5 years. Or, replace it with a quartz unit that will run for a LONG time. The quartz clock will still have some amount of drain on it, but it will be just a fraction of what the failed clock is drawing.
If the car sits for long periods of time, either put a disconnect switch on the battery or hook-up a trickle charger to keep the battery fully charged.
I agree with your analysis. Another option may be to put a cut-ff switch on the battery. This stops the draw completely no matter what.
Not sure if that appeals to you.
I'm replacing the clock in my '80 with an oil temperature gauge as in the '82. The clock is useless because the Retro Sound stereo already has a digital clock display.