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Saw awhile back someone posted the proper thread tap to use for the opening that the rear door jam switch screws in to. I've searched and cannot find that post, and wasn't that long ago. Anyone know?
Mine were stripped out . I repaired them with the small metal threaded squares that the vendors sell . They mount behind the fiberglass and are riveted in. No fun to install though.
I feel your pain, mine was the square pad and the only hole to put it through as half the size of the pad. Had to dremel the whole bigger and ended up glasing it in and re-tapping the whole thing. Good luck.
I feel your pain, mine was the square pad and the only hole to put it through as half the size of the pad. Had to dremel the whole bigger and ended up glasing it in and re-tapping the whole thing. Good luck.
I installed mine through the rear wheel well access doors for the body mount bolts using a retractable magnet. You don't have to alter anything.
I installed mine through the rear wheel well access doors for the body mount bolts using a retractable magnet. You don't have to alter anything.
I went through the same access hole and found that surprise. Mine must of been "Bubba'ed" at some time. I ran a wire through the holes so if I dropped it, I could retrieve it without fishing for the plate with the magnet.
I went through the same access hole and found that surprise. Mine must of been "Bubba'ed" at some time. I ran a wire through the holes so if I dropped it, I could retrieve it without fishing for the plate with the magnet.
Can you access the wiring to unplug the DA switches through the wheel well covers? Trying to figure out how to change the rear switches without removing the interior panels.... Thanks.
When you remove the DA switches, they have special copper connectors on them. If you are really lucky, you can unbend them, to reuse them. Most times they snap off. You can buy new contacts from the vendors, but you will have to solder the wires back on to them. Lou.
When you remove the DA switches, they have special copper connectors on them. If you are really lucky, you can unbend them, to reuse them. Most times they snap off. You can buy new contacts from the vendors, but you will have to solder the wires back on to them. Lou.
Thanks for the info Lou. I was just wondering if you could get at the connectors/wiring through the covers in the wheel well. After unbolting the switch I cant get it out far enough to unplug the connector and don't want to pull on it.
You can access the back of the wiring through the wheel well covers, But the end of the switch is in about a 3" tube of the lock pillar. You just see the wires going into a hole with a plastic grommet. You would have to pull out some on the switch to either bend the connectors straight, or cut the wires. These connectors do not unplug, they are bent in a "U" in the nylon end of the switch. If you mess with this, make sure that you fish a wire into the wheel well opening, so that you can pull the wires back out to the switch. This was a very poorly designed setup. I hope that this helps, and Grant, I am sorry that I could not easily locate this post to reply back to you earlier. Lou.
You can access the back of the wiring through the wheel well covers, But the end of the switch is in about a 3" tube of the lock pillar. You just see the wires going into a hole with a plastic grommet. You would have to pull out some on the switch to either bend the connectors straight, or cut the wires. These connectors do not unplug, they are bent in a "U" in the nylon end of the switch. If you mess with this, make sure that you fish a wire into the wheel well opening, so that you can pull the wires back out to the switch. This was a very poorly designed setup. I hope that this helps, and Grant, I am sorry that I could not easily locate this post to reply back to you earlier. Lou.
Thanks Lou! I ordered both switches and some connectors. This is the only thing left in my 69 that isn't working. Long road but worth it.
Thanks again!
Grant
I am glad that I could help you out. I have had my 68 coupe for 42 1/2 years and believe me
when I say that anything that could break has broken on it, At least once! I worked in maintenance at the original MTD (Modern Tool & Die) Parma (Cleveland,OH) plant for 34 years until it closed in 2007.
We made automotive parts, including all of the metal Corvette radiator supports from 1960-1982. It was such a good feeling, for me, to see them making Vette parts and to know that they were going into every new Corvette. We did make the C-3 outer front bumper brackets (dog leg), and the two ribbed bird cage panels behind the seats, also. Lou.