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Frame Off is Back ON !!

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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 08:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jomor
Hey lads!! Thanks for the comments, hope ye keep it moving forward as well! Adopt a neighbourhood kid or a scout troop? Turn it into autoshop 101!

Point noted on the windshield frame, have it stripped and did find surface rust as expected!





Media blast it and treat before priming. I am gonna remove the clip as well once I have the chassis finished.
Hi Jomor, I think the windshield frame will clean up nicely. It was good you checked. I have a post in the paint and body section where I remove the front clip on my donor car. Along with the help of Dub who restores vettes for a living I was able to remove the clip without damaging any of it. It takes a lot of patience and time but it is doable.
Good luck I will be watching along with others.
r








Here is what I ran into before and after!
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 09:10 PM
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Rvzio

That's some first class repairs there!! I've been lucky that the only structural steel issues have been some surface rust and the torsional twist in the chassis. PO said he had issues fitting t tops back on after the crash, gonna have to do some 3 dimensional checks on the birdcage structure. Did you have any issues with flex or fitment on fixing that tbar?
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 06:30 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jomor
Rvzio

That's some first class repairs there!! I've been lucky that the only structural steel issues have been some surface rust and the torsional twist in the chassis. PO said he had issues fitting t tops back on after the crash, gonna have to do some 3 dimensional checks on the birdcage structure. Did you have any issues with flex or fitment on fixing that tbar?
Hi jomor, as you may know metal can change or move when welding. I did specific short weld as to not heat the metal to much and kept it cool. Plenty of measurements and constant fits o windshield, T tops and side windows to assure the same fit. Not easy but doable if you take your time. In your case I don't see you going to that extreme which is a good thing.
r














Just a few more pictures and my high tech measurements. Be thankful that yours is not that bad. I don't wish this problem on anyone. YOUR challenge will be the front clip without damaging it. Remember if and when you remove the clip the majority of weight will transfer to the rear of the car if it's off the frame. Otherwise you will need to remove the doors also. Tape together the shims that come off the door jambs. Good Luck.
r

Last edited by SB64; Feb 21, 2015 at 08:24 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 09:37 PM
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Thanks Rvzio for the comments and interest!!

I have a renewed interest now that I've actually restarted the build!

Here are a few before chassis shots !!





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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jomor
Thanks Rvzio for the comments and interest!!

I have a renewed interest now that I've actually restarted the build!

Here are a few before chassis shots !!





Hey Jomor, well it looks like you have much of the car apart. Is this where you are now or do you have pictures of further progress. Just trying to get a handle on where you are and what is next. Do you have an overall plan for what you want your vette to look like? Looks like you have a very nice place to work on your restore. After a year of tedious stuff I know that the interest level changes. I am doing little things right now that need to get done and regain that spark.
Keep going you are doing fine.
r

Last edited by SB64; Feb 22, 2015 at 06:39 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 08:45 AM
  #26  
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Yes, this is the current status, which I like to refer to as "loose rolling" LOL.

Hoping to get the engine and gearbox dropped in by march 15. Gonna keep it mostly stock with exception of heads, carb, exhaust and cam. As noted, upgraded the suspension with a street slalom kit.


Originally Posted by jomor
Ok fast forward to present day!!! We managed to get the frame rolling of sorts. Still have to tighten and adjust components, but we needed to start at least dry fitting some stuff. Plan is to get the suspension finished and drop the engine and gearbox in in a few weeks. From there we will work on the fuel system (new tank on order), exhaust
(stock setup for now) until we get it fired up and running good. Want to keep everything reasonably stock with exception of heads(maybe), new cam and headers(duals or side pipes) to try and bump the horses to a reasonable level.





Gonna hit the diff with the pressure washer to brighten it up, remove the dirt and grease from the rough cast. Will post pics on how it works.





As stated earlier, we bought the street slalom kit which included the composite leaf altho I'm a bit concerned about the clearance between the spring and rim. I'm trying to determine if the weight of the body/drivetrain and settlement of the suspension will widen this gap from what seems very close right now. Any members care to share their experiences? I realize there are no adjustments made here yet , so this may be concern for nothing to this point!





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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 09:33 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jomor
Yes, this is the current status, which I like to refer to as "loose rolling" LOL.

Hoping to get the engine and gearbox dropped in by march 15. Gonna keep it mostly stock with exception of heads, carb, exhaust and cam. As noted, upgraded the suspension with a street slalom kit.
That does look kind of close. The bolt seems long and I think the nut is upside down, but I am not familiar with that kit. Just trying to help.
r
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rvzio
That does look kind of close. The bolt seems long and I think the nut is upside down, but I am not familiar with that kit. Just trying to help.
r
Appreciate the comments R !! Nut is hand tightened in reverse to the nylon for safekeeping. I will be looking at that again once the drive train and body minus the front clip is back on. Hopefully the weight and subsequent trailing arm adjustments will spread the rear wheels away from the leaf!

Keep wrenchin!!

Last edited by jomor; Feb 24, 2015 at 03:07 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 11:25 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by rvzio
That does look kind of close. The bolt seems long and I think the nut is upside down, but I am not familiar with that kit. Just trying to help.
r
Mine were that close when I put mine together, then I put the body on before I put the half shafts on and the rear wheels spread out. (Vehicle is on wheel dollies) Once I put the half shafts on it all fit correctly. My point is that you need to get it all together before you can determine if you have a problem.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim 1973
Mine were that close when I put mine together, then I put the body on before I put the half shafts on and the rear wheels spread out. (Vehicle is on wheel dollies) Once I put the half shafts on it all fit correctly. My point is that you need to get it all together before you can determine if you have a problem.
Thanks ! kinda figured that might be the case but always good to hear from someone whos been there.
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 02:13 PM
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Half shafts, drive shaft and tank crossmember back from media blasting! prime, paint and install.





New shock bolts from Corvette America
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jomor
Half shafts, drive shaft and tank crossmember back from media blasting! prime, paint and install.





New shock bolts from Corvette America
Hi jomor, you are moving right along. I t's always nice to work with new or clean parts. Nice job.
r
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:38 PM
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Ok so We have bolted up the clutch pack and gearbox to the block and dropped both into the chassis! I only get to work on the car every two to three weeks after travelling across the country for work. Next trip we will finish the brakes and fuel lines. Wanted to get this done to make some room now.



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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 05:48 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jomor
Ok so We have bolted up the clutch pack and gearbox to the block and dropped both into the chassis! I only get to work on the car every two to three weeks after travelling across the country for work. Next trip we will finish the brakes and fuel lines. Wanted to get this done to make some room now.



Nice Jomor, everything looks nice and is moving right along. Brake lines are not a perfect drop in so take your time with bending any of them. I 'am sure you will do just fine. Good luck and keep the pictures coming.
r
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rvzio
Nice Jomor, everything looks nice and is moving right along. Brake lines are not a perfect drop in so take your time with bending any of them. I 'am sure you will do just fine. Good luck and keep the pictures coming.
r
Thanks r

Gonna tweak the chassis lines on install of the calipers!
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 09:09 AM
  #36  
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New tank in place





Front sway bar installed , not torqued until body drop





Replicated frame part number and build date





Rattle canned the factory headers until we get new headers and side pipes



Created a replica tank sticker from the original



All new ujoints





Rust issue on the bird cage, gonna cut out and repair



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Old Sep 3, 2016 | 02:57 AM
  #37  
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Thanks for the update and staying at it! great encouragement for those of us who have had life get in the middle of things and slowing things down! Looks great so stay at it! Keep those good pix coming too.
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Old Sep 3, 2016 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy Tuttle
Thanks for the update and staying at it! great encouragement for those of us who have had life get in the middle of things and slowing things down! Looks great so stay at it! Keep those good pix coming too.
If i didnt know better, id say we hold the record for dead spells!! but ive been on this forum long enough to know im in good company!! the encouragement certainly helps tho!! Cheers!!
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