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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 12:56 AM
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Let me start by thanking everyone here on the forum for years of answered questions as I journey along my first C3 resurrection. I bought this 68 coupe disassembled and it has been the most challenging "puzzle" I've ever encountered. The rolling chassis is finished and I'm done with all major body work and want to put the body back on the chassis to assemble and fine tune the fitment since I haven't seen it together. I plan on wrapping the chassis in some sort of plastic to protect it during the painting. BUT... before I put the body back on I wanted to hear from the forum on what should and/or shouldn't be put on before the body goes on. The body is just a shell... I mean BARE!!! The heater/air conditioning box isn't even on it at this point. Should the radiator and support be put in first? Any wiring? I'd love to get every little piece of advise I could get as I prepare to do this. Especially the "I wish I'd have done 'X' before I put the body back on" kind of things. Thanks in advance, Jason. Oh... and stayed tuned for a fun new game of "What the hell is this?" Complete with pictures as I go through these boxes of parts that are supposed to go back on my car somewhere
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 02:14 AM
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Sounds like a ton (and a half) of fun to me!

I'm a rookie rebuilding my first '68 (mostly in "reverse order" of how it should be done...LOL!)....

I'd say suspension/brakes/brake lines/fuel lines/battery cables/chassis wiring harnesses/E-brake cables/fuel tank/engine & transmission if available before the body is set in place.

Post pics as you progress.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 13611
Let me start by thanking everyone here on the forum for years of answered questions as I journey along my first C3 resurrection. I bought this 68 coupe disassembled and it has been the most challenging "puzzle" I've ever encountered. The rolling chassis is finished and I'm done with all major body work and want to put the body back on the chassis to assemble and fine tune the fitment since I haven't seen it together. I plan on wrapping the chassis in some sort of plastic to protect it during the painting. BUT... before I put the body back on I wanted to hear from the forum on what should and/or shouldn't be put on before the body goes on. The body is just a shell... I mean BARE!!! The heater/air conditioning box isn't even on it at this point. Should the radiator and support be put in first? Any wiring? I'd love to get every little piece of advise I could get as I prepare to do this. Especially the "I wish I'd have done 'X' before I put the body back on" kind of things. Thanks in advance, Jason. Oh... and stayed tuned for a fun new game of "What the hell is this?" Complete with pictures as I go through these boxes of parts that are supposed to go back on my car somewhere
Hi 13611, this is an interesting time for you. I am also getting close to putting the body back on the chassis. I will be very interested in what things should or could be done . I am trying to figure that out so as not to have it all together and then see something I should have done before hand. I hope you get a ton of responses. There are so many posts on removing the body and prep work but not that many from what I see on going back the other way. Should be interesting.
r
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 08:02 AM
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Hi 13,
You can really assemble as much or as little of the body as you wish.
The sequence I chose had nothing but the core support on the body but as much as I could think of on the frame.
As you prepare to put the body on remember the insulation blanket over the transmission, the foam collar just forward of the blanket, (did 68s have them?), and the foam seals just in front of the #2 body mounts.
The only things you really can't reach with the body on are the long fuel and brake lines. So make sure they're just as you want them.
Here are a couple of pictures.
Maybe they'll remind you of something to put on or take off.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

The completed chassis arriving to meet up with the body again.


The chassis being wrapped.




Empty body being lowered on to chassis. Notice additional 12'x20' sheet of plastic.



View of body coming down.





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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi 13,
You can really assemble as much or as little of the body as you wish.
The sequence I chose had nothing but the core support on the body but as much as I could think of on the frame.
As you prepare to put the body on remember the insulation blanket over the transmission, the foam collar just forward of the blanket, (did 68s have them?), and the foam seals just in front of the #2 body mounts.
The only things you really can't reach with the body on are the long fuel and brake lines. So make sure they're just as you want them.
Here are a couple of pictures.
Maybe they'll remind you of something to put on or take off.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

The completed chassis arriving to meet up with the body again.


The chassis being wrapped.




Empty body being lowered on to chassis. Notice additional 12'x20' sheet of plastic.



View of body coming down.





As usual great pictures Alan. I was thinking about on my restore the tunnel wrap and insulation/shielding under seats and rear retractable seat belt holders. That stuff can go on after body in your opinion?? OOps just noticed the tunnel wrap so skip that.
r
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 08:17 AM
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I'd suggest installing the shifter, linkage, and tunnel insulation before dropping the body. You have open access to all you need with the body off including the slot in the shifter to insert the tool for alignment. If you wait until after the body is lowered, installing the shifter is a miserable job (assuming 4 speed). The tunnel insulation would need to be installed prior to installing the shifter unless you plan to cut a slot to get around the shifter. If you have an automatic, this may not be such an issue.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 10:58 AM
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alan,whens your how-to-book on rebuilding a c3's coming out?
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by BBCorv70
I'd suggest installing the shifter, linkage, and tunnel insulation before dropping the body. You have open access to all you need with the body off including the slot in the shifter to insert the tool for alignment. If you wait until after the body is lowered, installing the shifter is a miserable job (assuming 4 speed). The tunnel insulation would need to be installed prior to installing the shifter unless you plan to cut a slot to get around the shifter. If you have an automatic, this may not be such an issue.
Really good advice! Make sure to install the shifter and linkage prior to body drop or you will regret it. Easy job to do with the body off, pain in the butt with the body on.

I'd also make sure the positive battery cable is installed as well.

Alan,

Not to get too far off topic, but is that John M.'s shop in your photos?

Nice photo documentation as always!

Regards,

Stan Falenski
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 12:18 PM
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Hi Stan,
Yes that's John's shop.
My car was in pretty nice company back then.
John had that RS you see, and a 67 427 Convertible (I'm not sure how much of it was real), and a Nova L79, both parked next to the RS.
He use to kid that they were his 'retirement account'.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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Alan,

Look familiar?



John and Mike assisted me in getting the body back on the LS-6 at John's shop.

Back on topic, if the engine is already installed in the chassis, take off the fan and pulleys and install the radiator/shroud with the body. Much easier to do than try to install later (the radiator is easy, the shroud, not so much).

Regards,

Stan
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 01:19 PM
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Hi Stan,
Certainly does!!
Is that 'glow in the dark' paint?
Regards,
Alan
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 01:28 PM
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Hi dmax,
I'm afraid it wouldn't be much of a book. It would be very limited….. nothing about convertibles, big blocks, or options like a/c, p/s, p/b, automatic, etc., so wouldn't be very useful.
When I began there were no digital cameras so the picture selection is quite 'thin'. About 750.
LOTS of pictures the last 5 years, but of just specific things. About 5500.
If I was starting now it would be different.
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; Feb 24, 2015 at 01:32 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 02:10 PM
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Many great suggestions so far. Thank you. It's an automatic car so I'm safe from the linkage fiasco. I'll take a look at the AIM about your suggestion Rowdy. But, just for clarification (I've never seen my car together...), does the radiator/shroud get installed on the chassis or is it installed on the body somehow and lowered onto the chassis with the body? Alan... great pictures as always. Do you have any close ups of the outer grille areas just below where the lower portion of the bumper would be? I did some repairs in those areas a while back and I noticed in one of your pictures that there's a little "gap" (for a lack of a better term) just below the front bumper and at the top of where the grille moldings would terminate.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 02:12 PM
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Just realized I noticed that "gap" on Rowdy's picture... but the question stands. Thanks
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 02:39 PM
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I didn't install the cable for the ignition/shifter interlock and the reverse light switch on my 4-speed car, and what would have been a half-hour job on a bare chassis, turned into a real pita with the body on.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 13611
I'll take a look at the AIM about your suggestion Rowdy. But, just for clarification (I've never seen my car together...), does the radiator/shroud get installed on the chassis or is it installed on the body somehow and lowered onto the chassis with the body? Alan... great pictures as always. Do you have any close ups of the outer grille areas just below where the lower portion of the bumper would be? I did some repairs in those areas a while back and I noticed in one of your pictures that there's a little "gap" (for a lack of a better term) just below the front bumper and at the top of where the grille moldings would terminate.
Yes, the radiator support and radiator are mounted in position on the body. The fan shroud is mounted loosely in position on the radiator. You may have to change the angle at times as the body comes down, but for the most part, installation is pretty straight forward. Trying to install the shroud AFTER body installation will almost certainly require that you move the radiator support or remove a control arm to get the shroud in place... Neither of which is something I care to do on a freshly restored car.

One other point... Make sure that the bolts for the upper forward control arm bushings are in place and screwed in most of the way. You may not be able to install them once the fan shroud is in place.

If the gap you are referring to is in the center of where the bumper mounts, that is where the support bracket meets the bumper for mounting purposes. If you are talking about something else, I need further explanation.

Regards,

Stan
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mick71
I didn't install the cable for the ignition/shifter interlock and the reverse light switch on my 4-speed car, and what would have been a half-hour job on a bare chassis, turned into a real pita with the body on.
I consider this part of the "linkage," but you are absolutely right on the money.

If you have a four speed car, get everything done in this area before the body goes back on. Make sure the actual transmission rods are rough adjusted, have the interlock cable in place with all retainers and cotter pin installed, hook up the back up switch and install those little hair pin clips.

As Mick71 and BBCorv70 have already said, quick and easy to do out in the open, but will drive you nuts if you have to do it with the body back on the car.

Regards,

Stan
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 04:09 PM
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Hi,
Maybe either of these 'gaps'?
Regards,
Alan

Upper outer corner of opening for grill.
Same both left & right.


Lower inner corner of opening for grill. The gap allows the bumperette to mount snugly against the grill opening in order for it to align with the bottom trim on the grill itself.
The picture is taken from inside the lower right side valance opening looking forward and toward the center of the car.
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 12:13 AM
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I believe it's the top photo I was wondering about. What's that little cut out that's just below the bumper for? I was going to glass over it thinking it got damaged years ago.
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 13611
I believe it's the top photo I was wondering about. What's that little cut out that's just below the bumper for? I was going to glass over it thinking it got damaged years ago.
If you mean the one in the center on the nose, the "horseshoe" center bumper bracket attaches to the bumper in that opening.

On other item to install before dropping the body is the positive battery cable.

Jim
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