C376FL

I'm getting ready to replace calipers and hoses, lines. I have a caliper that is leaking, I'm not sure if they have been sleeved until I have removed them. I do know the rotors have been at some removed because the rivets have been drilled out. They did not line up the holes in the rotors and spindles to be able to adjust the parking brake. The question I have is there some way to prevent all of the fluid in the system from draining out while have the brake lines removed. This may be a real dumb question. I just do not want to pull the master cylinder to bench bleed because all of the fluid drained out. I was not sure if there is a plug the wright size to screw in the ends to prevent fluid loss.
Thanks for the help
Larry

DUB

If you are replacing the rubber hoses for the brakes. It is simple. Clamp off the rubber hose in an area you can get to. CUT the hose on the caliper side of your clamp. This way...NO fluid will leak out.

When you do this on the FRONT calipers....it allows you to install the caliper, pads and hose and get it tight. Then all you have to do is remove the metal brake line fitting from the rubber hose that is still clipped to the frame and then bring the new hose over and clip it in place and tighten up the fitting.

When doing the rear. You install your caliper, pads and steel line...and leave it a little bit loose when you attach it to the caliper. Because you clamped and cut the rubber hose...now you can un-clip the fitting and now you are ready to un-screw the hose off the junction block. Install the new hose and get tight....then route it to the bracket and clip into place and then connect your new steel line and tighten up all fitting.

If you feel you are loosing too much fluid...have some fluid ready to add to the master cylinder.

DUB

ddawson

Got to the autoparts store and pickup a pack of rubber vacuum caps. Once you pop the hard line slide a cap on.

MAKE SURE you crack the lines connections before you remove the caliper. Sometimes they are hard to loosen.

Also make sure you pickup a Flare Nut Wrench Set. It will greatly reduce rounding the connection.

C376FL

Thanks for the help guys, I kind of thought about doing just that Dub, but was not sure if i could stop the fluid loss well enough. I was not sure how long I will have the car apart. If I have to order the rebuild kit if they are already sleeved.
Thanks again guys.
Larry

C376FL

Hi ddawson
Thanks for the info on the vacuum caps that might help to put on the lines after they are cut and pinched off. I have a set of line wrenches I bought when I rebuilt the master cylinder.
Thanks again
Larry

spedaleden

If you for some reason run the M/C dry don't sweet it. With everything closed fill M/C with fluid and pump the brakes 5 times and start with passenger side caliper. Hold pedal to floor and loosen bleeder valve and re tighten, then release brake pedal. Pump brakes 5 more time and hold pedal to floor and loosen bleeder valve and re tighten, then release brake pedal. Repeat process a few more times till all signs of air is out.

You will be surprised by how quickly fluid travels to rear calipers. I do this with my daughter when I do brake jobs, you will have a rock hard pedal when done.

Repeat for drivers side.

68/70Vette

First of all, if you have a leaky caliper, you want to completely replace all the brake fluid. It's probably contaminated with water.

My opinion is that everything should be replaced. If one caliper is now leaking, maybe another will start leaking soon.

You don't have to remove the MC to bleed it. You can just jack up the rear of the car until the MC is horizontal with the earth surface. Interesting that some C2/C3 vettes came with MC's with bleeder screws that allow the MC to be bleed even at it's in the body, at rest, angle.

If you ever buy another rebuilt Delco MC, and you're not NRCS, buy a MC with bleeder screws in the MC casting. You can then bleed the MC in the car.

For my 68 and 70. All new stainless brake lines and fittings, and aluminum calipers, rebuilt Delco MC with stainless steel piston bores.
The stainless steel brake lines and fittings are not very expensive and can be replaced with the body on. The aluminum calipers can be pricey, but they weigh only 1/2 the weight of the cast iron.

C376FL

Thanks for all the help!
I will be replacing all four calipers, and lines to each wheel. The brake fluid has been changed several times be cause of a rotor run out problem. I just bleed the lines in the past due to money problems. I was just putting a band aid on it until I could come up with the money. I did not have a leak in the past on the caliper until now. So it is time to do the surgery and fix it for good.
Thanks again guys!
Larry

PHIL 68

I do not wish to hijack thread but I am replacing brake lines, master cylinder and calipers, you say I don't need to bench bleed master cylinder. This is what I thought since I will likely gravity bleed the system thanks Phil

DUB

Larry,
If you are planning on rebuilding your calipers.....like I wrote...you can take two pieces of flat steel and clamp Vise-Grip on the rubber hose and the flow of fluid will more than likely stop.....or you can bend the hose onto itself and then clamp it.

Using the rubber caps is also GREAT idea....and quite do-able. Just as long as the cap fits tight. And you are more than likely doing one caliper at a time.

For what it is worth....I would bench bleed your master cylinder. regardless if you gravity bleed it or not.

I use a pressure bleeder and I still bench bleed the master cylinder to make sure it is working correctly....because I have had some that were junk.

DUB

C376FL

Thanks from all of you!
Now all I have to do is get started.
Thanks
Larry

doorgunner

Just an FYI....after I installed a new kit in my master cylinder it too about 10-15 minutes to bench-bleed all the trapped air out.....

PHIL 68

I guess I was looking for justification for being lazy, definitely going to bench bleed Thanks Phil