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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 08:10 PM
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Default Chassis Paint

I have removed my trailing arms, gas tank and rear diff. I am not looking to get crazy restoring the frame, but I thought I would spend some time to try to stop the surface rust. Any ideas on a good product that would prevent me from having to take the frame down to bare metal? I have been looking at a rust encapsulator by Eastwood as well as the extreme chassis black. I have been looking at a product from magnet called chassis saver. Any suggestions?
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 11:40 PM
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I recently cleaned a frame with a real stiff braided wire wheel on and angle grinder and used the Eastwood Encapsulator and had very good results.

Steve
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by vette1500
I recently cleaned a frame with a real stiff braided wire wheel on and angle grinder and used the Eastwood Encapsulator and had very good results.

Steve
Same here. I also used a lot of lacquer thinner to remove oil/grease from the frame.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
Same here. I also used a lot of lacquer thinner to remove oil/grease from the frame.
Thanks guys! I really appreciate the input. I will post pics of what I do.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 09:02 AM
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I used POR-15 paint on my 73. It needs some rust to bond and when it
bonds to the metal, it stops the rust. I just cleaned all the loose rust off.
You can paint it on with a brush and it smooths itself out.
You can get black and silver:







Donnie
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 11:02 AM
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POR-15 is formulated for just that situation. It uses the existing [firm] rust to bond with the part. If you clean all the rust off, there would be no reason to use POR-15. But, if you knock the loose rust off, leaving only well adhered surface rust, POR-15 will work well to seal the surface and eliminate future rusting in that area.

If you have bare metal with no rust, priming with a self-etching primer and using Rustoleum semi-gloss black should do the job.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 11:38 AM
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You could use Osphos (Phosphoric Acid) to neutralize the rust first, then prep it and use any sealer / paint after that.

Osphos is great stuff.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
POR-15 is formulated for just that situation. It uses the existing [firm] rust to bond with the part. If you clean all the rust off, there would be no reason to use POR-15. But, if you knock the loose rust off, leaving only well adhered surface rust, POR-15 will work well to seal the surface and eliminate future rusting in that area.

If you have bare metal with no rust, priming with a self-etching primer and using Rustoleum semi-gloss black should do the job.
That looks amazing!
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 01:02 PM
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I used a product called FOZZ....with a garden pump sprayer. I bought it by the gallon at a local marina for $15. Then painted with Eastwood Extreme Chassis black.

FOZZ, A METAL PRIMER AND RUST PREVENTIVE
A great primer for all metal products, FOZZ desolves bleeding rust from many painted surfaces.

Here at MG Industrial Engines, one of our prime considerations is extending the life of the equipment we repair. Often this includes removing rust and scale from aging parts.
No product offers the advantages of FOZZ when it comes to removing and preventing the return of troublesome and unsightly rust and corrosion.

Fozz is a balanced and blended formula of Phosphoric Dichromate, wetting agents. and extenders. FOZZ is a primer, not a paint. One Gallon covers approx 600 sq. ft.

While "water based", FOZZ uses a blend of acids and must be used with hand, eye, and skin protection, and be used in well ventilated areas.
To prime, you merely remove loose rust and scale, dirt, oil, grease, and other accumulations with a wire brush. Apply one coat of FOZZ and allow to dry for approximately 16 to 24 hours (two coats of FOZZ may be required to thoroughly penetrate into the metal), then simply brush off the remaining residue and apply paint.








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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 03:34 PM
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POR 15 is a great product but I found it harder to use and the cure was a little unpredictable, especially in dry climates. I've used Eastwood’s chassis black and been very happy with the results. If you have a lot of rust, their rust encapsulator should be used first. Otherwise, just make sure you get all of the oil and grease off.
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 01:10 PM
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OK, you guy got me thinking. I am in the process of a complete restoration. Not NCRS but a fine daily driver. I have the body off and a stripped frame. I was going to have it blasted for $300.00 than prime and paint it using Eastwood Extreme. Is blasting necessary or just use encapsulator? The rust is suface with pitting. Nothing really bad or flaking. Please give opinions.
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 01:35 PM
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For your situation, I would put a wire brush on my drill and knock all of the LOOSE rust off the frame. Then, you could either use:

1) a rust encapsulator, then paint with semi-gloss black paint;

OR

2) wipe it down with a volatile cleaner (lacquer thinner, prep-sol), then use POR-15.

Either method will work well. Method #1 is easiest and least expensive; method #2 will permanently dress the frame (but it is troublesome and messy).
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 10:27 AM
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I'm in the process of painting the engine compartment and forward frame areas while my engine is out. I've been totally convinced that the POR 15 products are the way to go.
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 03:18 PM
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I had the tank and shield out of my 75 cleaned them up sanded off the rust preppd with Lacquor thinner and then painted with primer and finally used the Dura coat trick bed liner on the shield. That stuff is great and is very tough when it dries. Sealed it up tight.
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Aquarian
I had the tank and shield out of my 75 cleaned them up sanded off the rust preppd with Lacquor thinner and then painted with primer and finally used the Dura coat trick bed liner on the shield. That stuff is great and is very tough when it dries. Sealed it up tight.
it's duplicolor truck bed liner spray can. That's what I get for trying to do this at work....
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 07:52 PM
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I used rustbullet, It is a three step process. Their top coat is really great.
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