Can it be done with the body on and in one piece. Is there a trick to it I will be using a lift so that might help. Also the exhaust is out and a few other things.
THANKS

 

Hi TJ,
I'd like to say yes but I'm afraid the answer is no.
People report bending and re-bending, cutting in several pieces and using flared connectors, and using various flexible fuel lines.
It's a little bit easier on an automatic car because the transmission crossmember can be dropped but still very difficult even then.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

Hi Alan thanks for the quick reply, so what do you recommend I have to get this done. Can I loosen the body mounts

 

I replaced the fuel lines on my 68. At the time, the engine and transmission were not in the car. The fuel tank had been removed. I jacked up the car and placed supports under the passenger and driver's side floor pans. I built supports to the rear end to hold the body where the fuel tank would have been. With the body fully supported, I lowered the frame. To keep the frame and body aligned, I placed 10 inch bolts to connect the radiator frame to the chassis frame....this allowed the body frame to be dropped, but when I raised the chassis frame to the body, this would keep them in alignment. When the factory dropped the body onto the chassis, there were 4, 9/16 inch pins that mated the body to the frame and kept alignment. You can see the alignment holes on the frame under the driver's and passenger's sill plates. If you want to buy steel rods to use as alignment pins, you can't just go to Home Depot and buy 9/16 inch stock steel bars....they won't be 9/16..they'll be a little less...for real 9/16 inch steer bars you have to go to a store that sell to tool and die makers/machine shops...they will sell you a true 9/16 inch steel bar to use as alignment pins.
...............

To replace the gas lines, I dropped the frame about 10 inches from the body at the back of the car. Enough room to get the gas lines in. The front of the car was only separated by perhaps 2 inches. My alignment pins weren't that big of a factor...the body dropped down exactly on the frame where it should have been.

Believe it or not, you can replace the brake lines with the body on. At first glance, it looks impossible. After doing it 2 or 3 times, it's relatively easy.........I replace my brake lines, body on, with the drivers trailing arm removed however.

 

I just replaced the fuel line on my 71 with the body on the frame. Mine is an LT1 so there was no return line. The key is to have some way of straightening out the line after it is in place. I made my own straightener from wood and bolts. I routed a 3/8 inch channel half depth into two blocks of wood. I used four bolts, washers and nuts to clamp the blocks together. Once in place I straightened the line in small sections using my makeshift straightener. Overall it was a real pain, but it can be done. The thinner line running from the vapor canister to the tank is much easier.