After replacing the pump to carb fuel line, I got to noticing the heater hoses were old and not flexible. Plus the fact I had a small little puddle of coolant on the intake. It also appears the rad hoses are original after 43 years, all swelled, etc. So, replacing all. Initially I wanted to drain using the peacock valve but it's firmly in place and with not wanting to replaced the radiator right now, I want to ask if most all of the old coolant will drain from removing the lines. More specifically, the lower rad hose.

(btw: who named it "peacock"? Looks nothing like the bird.)

 

I believe it's called a 'petcock'. The lower hose will drain a lot, but the spout tilts up, so you won't get it all.

 

You're right and it was one of those brain farts where you know it looks wrong but you can't remember the correct spelling.

However, I guess my question should have been more of, will most of the fluids drain from the engine? I can sop out the bottom of the rad or even use a small pump. I thought about getting everything on (with a loosened lower rad fit, fill with water, run the engine till the thermo opens, then drain again,..perhaps twice before going 50/50.

 

And that there is still going to be coolant in the engine block....and the ONLY way to get it out is to remove the block drains on each side of the engine.

I know that using 'bulk' hose off a roll can be used. BUT...I have seen damage to the heater core tubes due to the stress the new heater hose applies to these tubes because you will have to bend and route the new 'bulk' hose. This is why I buy heater hoses with a 90 degree molded end on one end. and slide that onto the heater core tubes.

DUB

 

I would just get the bock drain plugs out and flush it and fill it back up.

BECAUSE..unless you pull out the block drains...there is NO WAY for any crap that is in the lower engine block area will ever get out ..( and I have seen A LOT)...unless you pull these drain plugs.

But..as you know I do this so I do not have time going back and forth when one process does it all. But...that is just me.

If you choose to pull out the block drain plugs...I would HIGHLY advise using a 6 point- 9/16 socket....and NOT a 12 point. And do not be surprised if you need to MANUALLY loosen it with a breaker bar.....BECAUSE chances are...they have NEVER been pulled out.

DUB

 

I can get most of the water out just by syphoning it with a section of clear hose, you can reach right down to the bottom of the radiator with the hose. I use clear so I can see the fluid coming before I suck it in! Glycol is really bad for you.
Another option is to run the garden hose into the radiator as above but then disconnect it from the tap and allow it to syphon back, as long as the tap end is lower than the bottom of the radiator this works plus avoids the issue of maybe sucking in radiator fluid.
If you really want to make a job of it, remove the thermostat, replace the water neck and run the car like this for a few minutes, the water charging round the engine will dislodge a lot of crud that can then be syphoned out, you may have repeat the procedure several times if the water looks very dirty. Just the way I do it and it has worked for me.

 

Thanks,..right now it's so I can primarily move the car and perhaps a small trip. But before anything lengthy, I'd like to replace the rad. Just a quick question (DUB) off topic: this all started with me replacing the fuel line you saw and I guess I upset the heater hose in the process which I'd rather have happen in the garage than on the road. BUT, I am having fuel leak at the new connection at the carb. I have it pretty tight. Should I have "taped" it or used something on the threads? I hadn't messed with it since I noticed it.

Speaking of the 90 degree ends. Was that the way it should have been from factory or just a better way personally. The ones I removed did not have an elbow.

 

I do not know if your car is factory A/C or not. IF it is...i would recommend the molded end hose. And YES...I have see the hoses from the factory be molded at the heater core on a A/C car. And these were not hoses that 'took shape' because they were installed with a curve. I can actually see the way the fibers in these were made in that shape.

If it is NOT A/C. Then bulk hose off a roll will do fine. But not all heater hose is the same...and I like the heater hose that has some body to it when I squeeze it...a because some I have seen is really cheap and not something I would put in the car. And the same goes for radiator hoses. JUST because it is being sold....does NOT make it RIGHT.


To each his/her own. But....TRUST ME....pulling the block drain plugs allows for all of the block coolant and crud to come out....due to begin the lowest point on the engine. And filling and running the engine and draining the radiator several times. May make the water look clean...BUT...now your block has water in it and I am sure it still has crud in it also. From what I have experienced in doing coolant system clean-outs...is that when I pull out a block drain plug...it is that last 5-10 seconds of draining is where the glop's of crud and rust particles finally comes out. AND when I put the block drain plug back in and fill the block with water and drain it again. The water comes out CLEAN...but that last 5-10 seconds of draining is where MORE crud comes out.

Also...it may seem crazy...but if the cars front end is lifted up...then the engine is NOT level...and a lot of the rust and crud actually migrates back to the lowest part of the coolant area in the engine block and it can not make it out of the drain plug hole...because it is BELOW the drain plug hole. If you level out the engine and do it again...you might be surprised in what comes out...when you thought you got it clean.

Seem a bit drastic....YES...but that is what I get paid to do for my customers.


FUEL LINE:

It all depends on where the fuel is leaking at the carb. If you can verify that it is at the threads of the flare nut.....and NOT the fitting IN the carb. I have also ran into this when I am installing NEW STAINLESS STEEL fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb. They can be hard to take seat and seal up. And by there design.....applying Teflon tape on the threads of the flare nut do absolutely NOTHING.....because the flare nut is NOT PIPE THREAD.....the sealing of the fuel is the inverted flare. I have had to tighten ...loosen and tighten and loosen the flare nut several times to get it to take shape....and in doing so...I can tell I am actually seeing that the flare nut is getting tight in a different position each time.

I do not use Teflon tape...but do as you wish.

DUB

 

Car is non-a/c. I have replaced those lines with some from NAPA and used newer clips rather than those factory ones (though I kept them!!)

I ordered the rad hoses from a corvette parts supplier so I feel those should be "correct". I don't know if the new lower will have the internal spring or not, but I could clean up the old one and reuse.

The other hose I want to replace but forgot about was the 3/8 line going from the top of rad to expansion tank.

The fuel line: Before I had read your post I did exactly what you had written and it appears sealed. I didn't use tape. I just think the flange didn't seat properly at first,etc. Not leaking now after a loosened and tightened twice. Seems like a fine line there,....another 1/30 of a turn of the wrench sealed it.

I haven't yet messed with the block plugs, but will take a crack at that tomorrow with the 6-point. If they appear to be really, really "welded" on, I may pass for now. Honestly, I don't even know where they are yet. I believe you mention reinstalling, redraining. Was that after getting up to temp or just after some movement?

 

If you drain the block via the block drain plugs....and fill it and use a coolant system flush. FOLLOW the directions. I will often times remove the thermostat so the 'flush' circulates....and then I let the engine sit for some time and COOL DOWN.....so I can drain and flush out with clean water and run it a little bit...LET IT COOL again and once I get the water when it is draining out of the radiator and block is CLEAN.....I then put in all drain plugs and fill it....and also re-install the thermostat.

And I blow out the heater core each time.....and if hoses are being replaced...they are installed AFTER I have flushed the engine.....unless they are leaking and bad ...obviously.

I can say I have had to use my long breaker bar to get the block plug to move in many cases. And sometimes....I use my impact. But when I use my impact...I am not HAMMERING on the plug HARD. I am only holding the impact here and letting the hammering action SHOCK the plug lightly to moderately to hopefully get it to free-up. Then I may increase on how much I am pressing on the trigger and watch my socket...and also the plug itself.

DUB