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MPG with a 383.

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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 01:42 PM
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Default MPG with a 383.

I'm asking those with one in their car if this is normal.

I just filled up after a drive of 134 miles. The tank took a hair less than 10.3 gallons of 91 octane. Of this mileage, I would estimate about 50 miles were highway and the rest city driving.

Is 13 mpg normal for this type driving, a high compression engine, a mild race/street cam, and a stock Q-jet carb? There's 1600 miles on it.

I have noticed that after 85 mph, if I attempt to accelerate from there, there isn't much left of pedal to floor. Some, but not much. It may be an accelerator cable mis-linkage perhaps, or the stock Q-jet that's the limiting factor. But it's nice to know that in the engine's present configuration, 15 mpg highway isn't unrealistic. Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Steve
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 02:06 PM
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What do you have for a tranny and rear gears?
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 929nitro
What do you have for a tranny and rear gears?
And how heavy is the car, what kind of tires do you have on it...

FWIW, 13 or so is about what my 1980 C3 with completely stock L48 with Q-Jet, TH350, 3.07 gears and 255/60R15 tires gets in town driving. Curb weight is around 3300lbs without me in it. It will do maybe just a little better on the highway if you keep the speed down, but since the speed limit around here on most highways is 70-75, not so much.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 07:10 PM
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Thanks for the response.

This '73 Coupe's 383 has a '76 C-10 block, original TH400 and 3.08 Rear End.

Tank Sticker print says: GVWR 4054 GAWR F 1927 R 2127
But this weight was with the original engine (Iron Heads & Intake Manifold, 2-Bolt L48 Block--which is still at the shop being checked out with no machining necessary so far). Also, PO installed a fiberglass Rear Leaf Spring/Band, and the original Leaf Assembly he did not have anymore. Back in Nebraska, I was never farther away than a mile from a grain elevator scale. Don't really have a handy way of weighing it here in the big city, but would say it's somewhat lighter than documented at birth.

P225/70R 15 Cooper Cobras were the closest I could find to the GR70-15 door sticker recommendation. They're performing great so far.

Steve

Last edited by Cavu2u; Jun 8, 2015 at 07:18 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 07:25 PM
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I have a high compression, high horsepower, highly cammed, not bored, not stroked 350. 4-speed with 3.36 gears.

I would be pleased with 10 MPG.

I will say that you should be able to do something more than 85. I suspect you have some issue where your throttle cable isn't fully "pulling through" the carb. With even a mildly built 383, you should be able to get somewhere quickly enough. I know I shut mine down at 100 (haven't ever gone faster...just plain scary in my car), but I get to 100, like, RIGHT NOW and there is still lots and lots of motor left.

In short, I wouldn't be displeased with 13 MPG at all and I also believe you have something going on that is limiting your full throttle application.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 08:06 PM
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13 seems good to me. I get way less 7 to 10 mpg mixed driving. adding an overdrive might help with mpg.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 08:22 PM
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I have a 383 with 700r4 and 3:55 rear and did 13MPG last long distance trip. Half of this was on the interstate at 75 to 85 MPH. When I was at 80ish I had a buttload of pedal left.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
Thanks for the response.

This '73 Coupe's 383 has a '76 C-10 block, original TH400 and 3.08 Rear End.

Tank Sticker print says: GVWR 4054 GAWR F 1927 R 2127
But this weight was with the original engine (Iron Heads & Intake Manifold, 2-Bolt L48 Block--which is still at the shop being checked out with no machining necessary so far). Also, PO installed a fiberglass Rear Leaf Spring/Band, and the original Leaf Assembly he did not have anymore. Back in Nebraska, I was never farther away than a mile from a grain elevator scale. Don't really have a handy way of weighing it here in the big city, but would say it's somewhat lighter than documented at birth.

P225/70R 15 Cooper Cobras were the closest I could find to the GR70-15 door sticker recommendation. They're performing great so far.

Steve
You can't go by those stickers, they are the max vehicle weight loaded with passengers and luggage. Stock curb weight unloaded for a 1973 smallblock automatic should be more in the 3500-3600lb range. That's pretty typical between 1973-1979. In 1980 they dropped the weight considerably by going with the aluminum rear end and thinner body panels and some other changes like aluminum intake on L48s instead of only on L82s. In 1981 they lightened them a little more by the composite monospring in the back. I went with 255/60R15 because that was as far as I can find the original size with the factory alloy wheels in 1980. I don't remember which year they switched to radials. Also the models with rally wheels got slightly smaller tires than ones with alloy. I think the size you went with is pretty close to what the latter rally wheel cars got. Mine are Cooper Cobras also... so far I like them. They definitely look sharp and the car handles well. Time will tell how well they hold up, but Cooper has a decent reputation so I am optimistic.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u


Tank Sticker print says: GVWR 4054 GAWR F 1927 R 2127

Steve
GVWR stands for gross vehicle weight rating. Its the weight of the car plus the recommended limit of passengers and cargo. My 77 with iron heads, no AC and no spare actually weighs 3400. Yours might be a little heavier.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
I'm asking those with one in their car if this is normal.

I just filled up after a drive of 134 miles. The tank took a hair less than 10.3 gallons of 91 octane. Of this mileage, I would estimate about 50 miles were highway and the rest city driving.

Is 13 mpg normal for this type driving, a high compression engine, a mild race/street cam, and a stock Q-jet carb? There's 1600 miles on it.

I have noticed that after 85 mph, if I attempt to accelerate from there, there isn't much left of pedal to floor. Some, but not much. It may be an accelerator cable mis-linkage perhaps, or the stock Q-jet that's the limiting factor. But it's nice to know that in the engine's present configuration, 15 mpg highway isn't unrealistic. Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Steve

Almost sounds like your secondaries are not opening properly or the air flaps for them.
You should be able to put a brick or board or whatever to fully depress the throttle when the engine is off and see if the throttle blades are opening all the way, primary and secondary both. This does not eliminate the mis-functioning of the air flaps on the secondaries though.
There is a lock-out lever on the right side of the carb that moves out of the way when the engine is fully up to temp that allows the opening of the secondaries. Check it's function to see that it moves when up to temp and the high idle has gone down to normal idle.

You can see it in this photo. the pin on the shaft engages the lever to it's right. That lever has to move so that the shaft can rotate. Secondary blades are on that shaft.






Last edited by REELAV8R; Jun 8, 2015 at 09:18 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 10:34 PM
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I thought GVWR might mean "maximum allowed", not actual empty vehicle weight, but threw it out there anyway. I'll check those secondary throats next.
Will prop the pedal down all the way, then see if any more can be opened at the carb by the cable. Will also investigate the possibility of a wrong carb gasket hindering the Secondary butterflies from opening. Any thing's possible with me.

Thanks to all.
Steve
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 07:49 AM
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Photo with pedal propped to the floor. Note cable's casing.



I can pull the linkage more and open the secondary's by hand, with the limiting factor being that cable casing.



Steve
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 09:23 AM
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Ok looks to be a throttle cable/pedal problem. That casing can be cut back if it is restricting full movement. Looking down the throat of front and back barrels are the blades vertical when you push it all the way open?
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 09:24 AM
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From that picture it doesn't look like the rear throttle cable and bracket are quite right. When you force the throttle all the way open look how much bend there is in the throttle. That should be straight. You may need to re-orrient the bracket so it holds it further back and maybe even flip the part of the cable shield that hooks to the bracket over so it is underneath if you can.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 10:47 AM
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Yeah, once I get the accelerator cable rigged properly, I can check those butterfly openings.
Thanks guys.

Steve
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 11:05 AM
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It would be safe to say that your engine was broke in pretty gently. I would say you do have a cable issue or maybe a bracket issue. If it was me I wouldn't be able to keep my foot out of it. Keep us posted on what you figure out and how it is after you fix it.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 11:16 AM
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Looks like you can move the cable back in that clamp and get more throttle travel. It also looks like the bracket could/should be sitting back a bit farther. That second hole in the bracket is ahead of the hole beneath it. Your missing a lot of fun right now!
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