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Wanted to check, before I load the full weight of the engine.
I have an engine stand that bolts to the front or back of the engine at 4 points. It's a 454 1970, where is the best place to bolt it up, is it using the the transmission bolt holes?
The correct attachment points are the transmission/bellhousing bolts. Try to spread the load as much as you can; a fully dressed engine is a fair bit of weight!
The correct attachment points are the transmission/bellhousing bolts. Try to spread the load as much as you can; a fully dressed engine is a fair bit of weight!
I agree with that last sentence. My fully dressed 350 was too much stress for my bolts. I used the engine hoist on the front engine pick point to even the load. What grade bolts are you using to secure the engine to the stand? I found the bolts that come with the stand somewhat inadequate - they did not even use all the threads in the block.
Wanted to check, before I load the full weight of the engine.
I have an engine stand that bolts to the front or back of the engine at 4 points. It's a 454 1970, where is the best place to bolt it up, is it using the the transmission bolt holes?
Thanks Paul
It only takes four grade-5 bolts to fasten a complete engine to an engine stand. A small block weighs around 550 pounds and a big block weighs about 775 pounds.
Last edited by toobroketoretire; Jun 12, 2015 at 03:35 AM.
There have been thousands of SB and BB engines hung from 4 bolts on an engine stand. Use grade 8 bolts and make sure you have as much of the threads used as possible. The bolts and threads can take it. Now some of the welds on crappy engine stands are another question. I use the two upper holes and the lower holes and have never had a problem.
I use a similar stand, but I like to test fire, break in the cam and check for leaks with the engine running on the stand. So I made a temporary support for the front of the engine on the engine stand. It's a T-shaped, with a wood saddle that's contoured to the bottom of the front of the oil pan. It's a good feeling knowing that when you drop the motor in, it will fire right up, and not leak.
Very timely thread. I'm in the disassembly stages of my first ever body-off and I'm hoping to pull my engine off the chassis this weekend to mount it on my stand. This info will help.
I had planned to use two lift points utilizing the tabs already installed on the LH front of the intake manifold and RH upper of the bell housing, but realized that it'd be easier to use four lift points on the front and rear of each head so that's the new plan
Once the tranny and clutch are removed from the block, I'll mount it to the stand using the upper and lower bell housing holes like Gordonm said and Ontario73 showed.
My stand is fixed in one spot but it does rotate 360 degrees and I can also rotate an engine 360 degrees around it's crank center line. I'm using six grade 8 bolts but four grade 5's are enough for even a heavy big block.
Paul; having just removed the engine and transmission by myself I can tell you its a lot easier with a leveler used on the hoist.
I went in from the side and with the radiator removed I did not find this hard, the secret is go slowly!
Paul
My radiator is removed and the body is off the frame so that will make things MUCH easier! I'll be using a chain hoist suspended from a beam in the attic. I already have a leveler that I used for the body lift and I plan on using it here too.