I have finished my windshield trim and moved on to the next issue. The security system. Today I removed the door card to look around and to figure out why my lock rod is so short and hard to move. After removing the latch mechanism I can see the lock cylinder and arming switch. The arming switch has a button that looks like it will depress when the tumbler is turned. I'm guessing here! But my lock cylinder had no tabs that would make contact with the arming switch. When I bought the car they told me they replaced the door locks so now I'm thinking it's missing something?? Can you tell?

Also I have degreased the latch and cleaned but what is the best way to lubricate it before install? Then the last question is my lock rod.. The driver's side is very short and not long enough to pull it out manually. Passenger side is fine. I thought you could adjust the travel but there is none. I have compared both sides and don't see a difference?? The chrome lock **** is screwed in till it bottoms out which seems to be the same for both sides??

 

I have to stop here and need to understand EXACTLY what you mean by LOCK ROD???

The rod in the photo you posted is NOT the lock rod.

SO either post a photo if this rod you call a LOCK ROD or describe it very well from what it connects to on each end.....it makes a difference.

Logical guess...but off base on this one. The clip that holds your lock cylinder to the DOOR....that has the black rubber plunger is the TAMPER SWITCH. This tamper switch has NOTHING to do with the operation of the door lock cylinder. What this tamper switch does...is if someone were to pull your lock cylinder out of the door to try to unlock manually and open it....the alarm system would know this ( if the switch was good) and set the alarm horn off....BECAUSE this tamper switch has to be pushed in and seated like what you have shown to make this switch OPEN....and when it is removed...the switch closes...providing GROUND to the theft deterrent control module....thus causing the alarm to start blowing the horn and interrupt the starter circuit.

The switch you see at the end of the lock cylinder is the DISARMING SWITCH. In order for you to ARM the system...you MUST use the POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH...IF you car has POWER DOOR LOCK.

In the photo you posted...I do not see anything missing.



I spray in a clear great from ZEP and let it flash off and a film stay on it.

IF when you are trying to pullout on the rod that the chrome **** threads onto....and it is REALLY HARD to pull on....You DO HAVE A PROBLEM with your power door lock actuator binding due to age.

There is so much that I meed to talk to you about with this area that I truly do not have the time to comment on all the fine little issues that can become BIG issue if you are not careful.

if you want to PM me and I get you my shop number and call me... I can go over what you need to look t and what to expect if when you get it together and it does not work. I have dealt with this so many times....I have it mastered.

DUB

 

Hi DUB yes that would be great if I could speak with you. PM sent.

Thanks,
AL