76 rear wheel bearings
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
76 rear wheel bearings
I would like to replace the rear wheel bearings in my 76. I have play in the 12/6 position but nothing in the 3/9. I have heard the wheel chirp for about two weeks and know it's time. Is there anyone in the Kansas City / Overland Park area that has the tools or is willing to help out. I really don't want to spend 800-1000 by taking it to the vette shop. I have most tools, but don't have the correct ones to do this right. I just wanted to check before I went any further. I am contemplating even purchasing the tools myself since I know I may very well be doing this again down the road. It's my daily driver - so getting it done soon is essential 
thx!
thx!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
Is this the bird chirp noise I'm hearing then? I just assumed wheel bearings. It's only the passenger side? How much can I drive the car before it's a major deal.....probably can't get parts until next weekend and the bird chirp is getting more regular....
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Feeling the play in the rear wheel bearing is going to be normal. NOW...how much play...that is hard to 'say'....which depends on the run-out that the bearing have in them.
When checking the play at 12/6 position...look around at the spindle and see if it is in the universal joint area...or you can actually see that the spindle is moving.
Factory 'says' max run-out is .008"....which when it is set like that and you 'feel' it...it will have play in it that will make you think something is wrong.
As a rule....I set up rear bearings at no more than .003".
Universal joints can chirp...parking brake springs being broken and sometimes make that noise also. Brake pads can do it also. When it is doing it...more than likely at slow speeds...apply the brake and see if it goes away.
Can not comment on how long you can drive it because I am not there listening to it.
DUB
When checking the play at 12/6 position...look around at the spindle and see if it is in the universal joint area...or you can actually see that the spindle is moving.
Factory 'says' max run-out is .008"....which when it is set like that and you 'feel' it...it will have play in it that will make you think something is wrong.
As a rule....I set up rear bearings at no more than .003".
Universal joints can chirp...parking brake springs being broken and sometimes make that noise also. Brake pads can do it also. When it is doing it...more than likely at slow speeds...apply the brake and see if it goes away.
Can not comment on how long you can drive it because I am not there listening to it.
DUB
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
Universal joints can chirp...parking brake springs being broken and sometimes make that noise also. Brake pads can do it also. When it is doing it...more than likely at slow speeds...apply the brake and see if it goes away.
Can not comment on how long you can drive it because I am not there listening to it.
DUB
Can not comment on how long you can drive it because I am not there listening to it.
DUB
I have U-joints ordered as that seamed to be a potential suspect I could eliminate more easily and at a much lower cost and with tools I already have.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I would start with checking the Universal joints.
And the FOUR bolts that hold the universal joint flange to the inner wheel bearing flange....they should be tighten to 60-90 lbs/ft. Because sometimes I have seen them get loose due to there were NO french locks installed on them when someone removed them.
DUB
And the FOUR bolts that hold the universal joint flange to the inner wheel bearing flange....they should be tighten to 60-90 lbs/ft. Because sometimes I have seen them get loose due to there were NO french locks installed on them when someone removed them.
DUB
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
I would start with checking the Universal joints.
And the FOUR bolts that hold the universal joint flange to the inner wheel bearing flange....they should be tighten to 60-90 lbs/ft. Because sometimes I have seen them get loose due to there were NO french locks installed on them when someone removed them.
DUB
And the FOUR bolts that hold the universal joint flange to the inner wheel bearing flange....they should be tighten to 60-90 lbs/ft. Because sometimes I have seen them get loose due to there were NO french locks installed on them when someone removed them.
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
When the spindle bearings begin to fail they GROWL; not chirp. A chirp is an indication of something hitting metal. Check your brake pads for wear and replace them if they're under 1/4" thick.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
Is there any real way to tell if the U-joints are going bad from a visual inspection of the outside? The outer U-joint has no visible evidence of grease, but the inner U-joint near the differential does. With everything I have tried to glean from the forum, I had narrowed it down to U-joints or Bearings. I am confident I can swap the U-joints on my own with the tools I have.....it's the bearings that have me scratching my head due to cost -
At what point is it not easier to just install an entirely new spindle assembly on both sides when I can pick it up at Duntov Motors for $450. Even buying the tools needed for $200-300 and I am at the labor only cost to do the rear wheel bearings here. I don't need original parts - I'm not in the judging world.
The never ending cycle of deciphering noises
but I love driving this car!!!
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: pa
A lot of places like Autozone and Advance Auto will let you borrow tools for free. I borrowed a steering wheel puller one time. you just give them a deposit and when you bring back the tool, they give you your money back.
Last edited by jeff-74; Aug 3, 2015 at 06:57 PM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: pa
I also just had my passenger rear bearing replaced. Cost me $470.
I too had play at 12 and 6 and figured it may be the spindle but I also had what felt like a flat spot on a back tire. Or I thought maybe a belt was broken on a tire, It would make a "wump-wump-wump" sound and I really would notice it when i was cruising around 25 mph.
The guy showed me the old bearing and it was indeed shot.
I too had play at 12 and 6 and figured it may be the spindle but I also had what felt like a flat spot on a back tire. Or I thought maybe a belt was broken on a tire, It would make a "wump-wump-wump" sound and I really would notice it when i was cruising around 25 mph.
The guy showed me the old bearing and it was indeed shot.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
If you are servicing the Universal joints...you MUST use the inner bearing flange that bolts to the outer U-joint flange to provide the STRENGTH in this flange. IF you don't do this...you will damage the outer U-joint flange where it is really thin and weak.
NO HAMMERS to beat them out and in!!!...obviously. Use a press. And if I had to do them for you...I would ONLY use SPICER U-joints with NO grease fittings.
Visually seeing rust powder is a good sign that the universal joint is shot. I fell them to make sure when they are in the car (automatic transmission) and do not want to write how I do this...kinda risky and if you do not know what you are doing...you can get hurt. When I get the half shaft out...I can feel them again if I am suspect that I felt something or it is on a manual transmission car.
DUB
NO HAMMERS to beat them out and in!!!...obviously. Use a press. And if I had to do them for you...I would ONLY use SPICER U-joints with NO grease fittings.
Visually seeing rust powder is a good sign that the universal joint is shot. I fell them to make sure when they are in the car (automatic transmission) and do not want to write how I do this...kinda risky and if you do not know what you are doing...you can get hurt. When I get the half shaft out...I can feel them again if I am suspect that I felt something or it is on a manual transmission car.
DUB